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ATF In Primary??????

ATF is a very thin high detergent hydraulic type oil with friction modifiers, why would anyone want this in a primary?

Because they are convinced that it works for them.:D

Like I mentioned in another post, the Barnett clutches recommend the ATF JUST for their clutches, not because it's best for the primary.
 
Because they are convinced that it works for them.:D

Like I mentioned in another post, the Barnett clutches recommend the ATF JUST for their clutches, not because it's best for the primary.

Got it Boss:p
 
Over filling the primary with any oil or ATF causes parasitic drag and will give you problems with shifting and finding neutral.
 
This Post is for Glider. Found a good use for the ATF you were going to use in your primary.:57:

BenBeenBanned@VWVortex said:

Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
 
Once again, ATF, a great hydraulic fluid meant to build pressure and yes it has been used for years for wet clutches but not meant for lubricating purposes as needed in the primary on our scooters, long term it will not be enough lube or cooling for the chain and sprockets let alone heat transfer for the alternator IMO, I would like to hear long term miles from any one using it, I bet your clutch works good but the rest of the primary has suffered, Type F has a lot of extra friction modifiers only Ford used in the day and I would not want that in a power steering pump let alone my primary, and now Valvoline has a one size fits all ATF, but you better be careful with this it will ruin a CVT transmission, Capital Jack , and the beat goes on:s
 
why do you use Gl1 in a five speed and GL5 IN A SIX SPEED ? ANYBODY KNOW WHY...AND WHAT is the differnce between GL1 and GL5 in the tranny?:rr
 
This Post is for Glider. Found a good use for the ATF you were going to use in your primary.:57:

BenBeenBanned@VWVortex said:

Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Penetrating oil ..... Average load

None ...................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds

Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

I can see it now...hmmm if ATF is good why not put Acetone in there to "really" lube things up..:yeahright.OH-H-H my bad...acetone is flammable...!:small3d038: JKG...
 
why do you use Gl1 in a five speed and GL5 IN A SIX SPEED ? ANYBODY KNOW WHY...AND WHAT is the differnce between GL1 and GL5 in the tranny?:rr

That's a LOADED question... Noted by your Gun.

I think it to be, GL1 is Earlier made for certain types of use. The Lower Shear or Lower Pressure on bevel gears; was engineered into the GL1. It can also have anti Rust-foam agents in it also..

The GL4 OR GL5 is especially made for High Shear-Speed or High Pressure (torque) gears. Newer designed than the GL1 and is engineered for Newer types of applications..

Personally, I think it is like the Ratings and Changes in-on motor oils.... Different Rating number and letters when different Engineering changes are done and require "Change" in the lube to suite a new product.. Hence
(HD's 6 spd)

I would use the HIGHER rated GL5 (even when GL1 is suggested) Just because it is Newer developed for High speed and High torque and IS called out for, in the newer 6 spd.... It would NOT work AS well using the older, rated GL1 rated when the ENGINEERS call out for the BETTER stuff inside the GL5....(Higher Torque and Shear/Speed)

I think that IF GL5 was available back when HD said to use the GL1 , THEY would of suggested to use GL5 instead.

Thats My take on it.. :bigsmiley28:

signed....BUBBIE
 
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