2008 softail ticking
- Thread starter Pipeman15
- Start date
Poor milage and bluing like you described tells me you're running too rich.
You said your not running a fuel management system so something else is causing it to dump to much gas into the engine. JMHO. I would think you would notice a gassy smell, what do the tail pipe tips look like? Black/sooty looking?
You said your not running a fuel management system so something else is causing it to dump to much gas into the engine. JMHO. I would think you would notice a gassy smell, what do the tail pipe tips look like? Black/sooty looking?
Gray/brown seems to be a decent color and does not indicate too rich of mixture but poor milage and bluing of the entire exhaust is an indicator of too much fuel.
I'm kinda stumped on what's going on. I'm wondering if you are having some valve issues, Have you done a compression test?
Here is a good how to for you.
Keeping an eye on your compression is a good way to assess the condition of your top-end. Heat and wear gradually reduce the piston-ring and valve seal which keep the pressure in the cylinder causing power loss. Head gaskets eventually begin to leak from the heating and cooling cycles and can blow out unexpectedly. A simple compression test when your motorcycle is new will give you a baseline to compare future checks, but if you are already riding a higher mileage bike, check your service manual for the exact compression specs. Most big bikes run about 150 psi. or better. Stock cranking pressures for the Evo and Twin Cam are around 150 psi and 160 psi respectively. Here's the procedure for checking compression:
Remove both spark-plugs
Ground both leads so the coil or ECM isn't damaged
Install compression gauge, even cheap Car-Store gages work fine.
Hold the throttle wide-open
If you have a CV carb, hold the slide UP also
Crank the motor over until the gauge settle, usually 3 - 5 revolutions
If the reading seems low, squirt a tiny bit of oil into the spark-plug hole to give the rings a better seal. If the reading increases the rings are worn and cylinder maintenance is needed. If one cylinder is more than 10 lbs higher than the other, it may have a burnt valve, seat, or the ring/cylinder damage. Since each piston has separate compression and oil control rings, low compression doesn't always correlate with oil burning, but can cause fouled plugs due to incomplete combustion.
For you tool junkies there are several neat products for checking compression and leak down. Jim's Dual-Gauge Leak Down Tester enables you to check for worn piston rings, valves, and leaking gaskets by pressurizing the cylinder and enabling you to track down where the pressure is leaking by listening at the exhaust, intake, or crankcase. Motion Pro Compression Test Set features a conventional 300 psi pressure gauge with quick-disconnect adapters for 10, 12, and 14mm spark plug holes. Either of these work fine, but the Jim's Machine setup is the choice for pro workshops.
Bad compression isn't the end of the world, and your motorcycle may run for many miles as is, but for the best power and mileage it's best to bore the cylinders, replace the pistons and rings, and do a valve job.
Some other links on checking compression...
How to Check Your Engine's Compression - - Search Auto Parts | Automotive News
Engine Compression Testing
I'm kinda stumped on what's going on. I'm wondering if you are having some valve issues, Have you done a compression test?
Here is a good how to for you.
Keeping an eye on your compression is a good way to assess the condition of your top-end. Heat and wear gradually reduce the piston-ring and valve seal which keep the pressure in the cylinder causing power loss. Head gaskets eventually begin to leak from the heating and cooling cycles and can blow out unexpectedly. A simple compression test when your motorcycle is new will give you a baseline to compare future checks, but if you are already riding a higher mileage bike, check your service manual for the exact compression specs. Most big bikes run about 150 psi. or better. Stock cranking pressures for the Evo and Twin Cam are around 150 psi and 160 psi respectively. Here's the procedure for checking compression:
Remove both spark-plugs
Ground both leads so the coil or ECM isn't damaged
Install compression gauge, even cheap Car-Store gages work fine.
Hold the throttle wide-open
If you have a CV carb, hold the slide UP also
Crank the motor over until the gauge settle, usually 3 - 5 revolutions
If the reading seems low, squirt a tiny bit of oil into the spark-plug hole to give the rings a better seal. If the reading increases the rings are worn and cylinder maintenance is needed. If one cylinder is more than 10 lbs higher than the other, it may have a burnt valve, seat, or the ring/cylinder damage. Since each piston has separate compression and oil control rings, low compression doesn't always correlate with oil burning, but can cause fouled plugs due to incomplete combustion.
For you tool junkies there are several neat products for checking compression and leak down. Jim's Dual-Gauge Leak Down Tester enables you to check for worn piston rings, valves, and leaking gaskets by pressurizing the cylinder and enabling you to track down where the pressure is leaking by listening at the exhaust, intake, or crankcase. Motion Pro Compression Test Set features a conventional 300 psi pressure gauge with quick-disconnect adapters for 10, 12, and 14mm spark plug holes. Either of these work fine, but the Jim's Machine setup is the choice for pro workshops.
Bad compression isn't the end of the world, and your motorcycle may run for many miles as is, but for the best power and mileage it's best to bore the cylinders, replace the pistons and rings, and do a valve job.
Some other links on checking compression...
How to Check Your Engine's Compression - - Search Auto Parts | Automotive News
Engine Compression Testing
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Pipeman15
Member
Ok thanks. I'm stumped too. If it was black and sooty what would that have been you think? I guess I'm way pass an exhaust leak now
Here's something else too. Plugs look great.
Also still seems to be popping a lot. This maybe way off but could all this by any chance be injector related? Ticking, bluing?
Here's something else too. Plugs look great.
Also still seems to be popping a lot. This maybe way off but could all this by any chance be injector related? Ticking, bluing?
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With your symptoms of poor milage and bluing of the exhaust a black sooty tailpipe could be signs of too much fuel.
Tailpipes and plugs sound good so onto the next thought.
I doubt it's injectors have you checked for any intake leaks? air leaks can cause all kinds of issues.
Try this, this was a post from another issue with a possible intake leak.
Have you checked for intake leaks? Carefully spray some WD40 or the like around where the intake meets the heads while warm and idling. Taking care not to spray so the carb picks it up. If the idle suddenly changes, you need to check those intake seals.
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The ticking sound you hear could be a bad lifter but that doesn't explain the other issues tho. I guess it could be a coincidence.
At this point I'm at a loss. Hopefully some others will chime in too.
At this point I'm at a loss. Hopefully some others will chime in too.
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Pipeman15
Member
I took a video of it idling and you can hear the tick very clearly. However, I have no clue how to post it on here. Everything I try keeps saying I don't have the extension? Any ideas how I can get it up here you to hear? I tried the intake leak with wd 40. No change in the idle.
