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2008 softail ticking

Pipeman15,

If you are getting into the rocker boxes, I suggest that you get a set of Rocker Lockers and install those especially if you do not find anything else wrong. Tearing the top off the engine and reassembly is gonna be far easier with adjustable pushrods, but can be done without. Your call.

If you are putting in new lifters, I would opt for adjustable pushrods. That way you can adjust them a flat or two long.

Cheers,

TQ
 
If you have a lifter that is not pumping up. The noise will be very noticeable at the lifter block. With videos its hard to tell about noises but it does certainly seem to emanate from the front exhaust valve. Does the noise go away with throttle? Does the ticking speed up with an RPM increase? You should be able to loosen three bolts to the tank and slide something up under the middle between the tank and frame to raise the tank a bit. This will allow some room to remove rocker cover and do some inspection. I would perform a compression test first and see what that produces and then possibly a leak down test after that. These two may give some clues....
 
I don't think there is any noise down at the lifters at all but I wasn't sure if it could still be one. Ok I'll try to lift it up on Friday and have a look. It does seem like it's more pronounced at the front of the front rocker and I can hear it faintly most of the way down the whole head. I'm really hoping it's not a piston problem. If it is it's most likely done for the season

The ticking speed does increase with the throttle. It starts within 5 seconds of start up and when I release the throttle the ticking slows a bit and I get a lot of popping
 
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My moneys on the upper valve train, a broken valve spring, a broken rocker arm or a bad valve. A bad valve would be the last thing I would think. If the valves aren't opening and closing like they should that could account for the popping you are getting.

I'm thinking when you remove the rocker box you will find the problem. JMHO.
 
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Ok. So I can just prop up the gas tank, not totally remove it?

Yes, I've removed the bolts like Bodeen suggested and take a 2 by 4 and stick it under the rear of the tank and the frame. That will give you a few more inches to work. Removing the tank completely is not that tough either.
 
Looking at the service manual it looks like there's only 2 bolts holding the tank on. One through the front and one on the back

Ok. Im real sorry but one last question and I'll leave you all alone for the night. When I do the compression test, will either of these 3 problems show up on there?
 
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If a valve is not closing all the way it will not hold the pressure. The bolts you are looking for on the tank is 1 on the wishbone and 1 on each side of the front of the tank.If you are just going to raise the tank remove the 1 on the wishbone and loosen the 2 on the front of the tank enough to let it swivel up.

I wouldn't use a compression test to rule out a broken valve spring or a broken rocker arm tho.
 
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I'm not sure a 2x4 will fit but something like that, probably narrower. Have someone lift gently up on the tank and slide said spacer in from seat side. You will be able to remove front rocker cover and fire it up once removed. Are you prepared to go further once the problem is found? Leave it to us and we'll have it tore down and off too machine for a fire breathing torque monster that you cant keep tires on! Lol. That aint cheap or easy....
 
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