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Replaced idle and throttle cable, now bike won't start

It's aftermarket. I have not actually bought them yet, but was planning on buying this fuel pump and while I am in the tank, I was also planning to replace the fuel filter canister with this one.
Both are aftermarket replacements for the actual Harley partnumbers.

Good idea or penny wise pound foolish?

I'm with dolt on this one, I'm not a big fan of electrical aftermarket parts. Changing the pump is no small task as you are finding out. If it were me I'd opt for the real deal. JMHO.
 
After the bike is running don't forget to do a Cruise Control Lash Initialization.
This should be done whenever adjusting or replacing the idle/throttle cables.

Good Luck with the pump project!
 
dolt and I must have pushed submit around the same time. so, it sounds like pound foolish!

Will check out Newcastle. Do you have good experience with them?

I posted what I would do in your situation but what parts you buy or where you buy them is your call.

I used to buy all parts from Zanotti's but when they closed, New Castle took over Zanotti's online parts department, so I have been buying parts from them for several years. They have taken parts back and waived the restocking charge, been easy to work with on exchanges and someone knowledgeable is always on the online chat/help feature. If something is not in stock, they receive shipments every 4-5 days and you might have to wait for the next shipment if the part you need is not in stock. I won't buy HD parts anywhere else.:D
 
I think you guys are absolutely right. It's not worth the hassle to do it again in a few months, so, I just came back from the dealer, and have all parts ready to roll: pump assembly, filter canister, new canopy gasket and screws.

Unforunately time to work on this is up. I have to go set up for tomorrow's Fall Festival at our local parish church, where I run the "Beergarden"

I will be back!
 

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Just, out here in the back ground, is it possible, maybe, at the handle bar, the kill switch wires, ( pinched, cut, ) ! Is there fire at plugs? Ignition, starts at the kill switch. In haste ,the obvious, can slip by. Easy to connect new cables, have seen that ,how handle bar wiring is easy to cross,(misalignment). As I read , no mention of fire at plugs, test. Motor turns over no fire? Have seen this on F I 's or Carb's . cables , wires ground on handlebar.
 
Just, out here in the back ground, is it possible, maybe, at the handle bar, the kill switch wires, ( pinched, cut, ) ! Is there fire at plugs? Ignition, starts at the kill switch. In haste ,the obvious, can slip by. Easy to connect new cables, have seen that ,how handle bar wiring is easy to cross,(misalignment). As I read , no mention of fire at plugs, test. Motor turns over no fire? Have seen this on F I 's or Carb's . cables , wires ground on handlebar.

Any of the above is possible but the OP has pulled the pump (check post #66) and determined that the pump has failed. Once he has an operating pump back in the tank, if there are any other faults, he will be looking at all other possible causes. We all have our collective fingers crossed that the pump is the offender.:D
 
dolt and I must have pushed submit around the same time. so, it sounds like pound foolish!

Will check out Newcastle. Do you have good experience with them?

Yes. I have used Kutter too with good success. I agree with these guy's. Dont buy the Ebay whatchacallit brand...The one you have has lasted how long.....
 
OK, so, now I am totally depressed.....

As you can see , I have just over 11 volts at the fuel pump connector (for two seconds after switching to run), but the new pump doesn't do anything either.

What gives? :nosad
 

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OK, so, now I am totally depressed.....

As you can see , I have just over 11 volts at the fuel pump connector (for two seconds after switching to run), but the new pump doesn't do anything either.

What gives? :nosad

Is your battery fully charged? 12.7 volts I would expect a drop in voltage with lights and all but not that much of a drop
 
Is your battery fully charged? 12.7 volts I would expect a drop in voltage with lights and all but not that much of a drop

I have verified spark at the plugs (I can still feel it in my elbow :bigsmiley24:)
Plugs spark at every ignition cycle, look clean and dry.

Took new pump and tried it on my car battery, works as expected. Took old pump and tried it on my car battery, works like a charm!!

Bike battery has been trickle charging for several hours, I now measure 11.7 v at the pump connector, yet pump (old or new) does not work.

I understand it is not the ideal voltage, but shouldn't it do something with 11.7 volts? Like I said, it works fine on the car battery (12.75 v)

So, I am going to return the pump and get a new system relais while I am at the dealer.

I'll be back
 
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