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Please i need mechanical help!!!!

The very first thing I would do is get that Dobeck unit off the bike . Put everything back to original being very certain the injector wiring gets returned to normal.
Also it is very critical to ensure the injector wiring is secured properly in the locks
of the connector. I would also closely examine each terminal for any signs of
damage paying particular attention to lock tabs. This next sugestion I would consider critical to accurate diagnosis; When you remove the wires from the connector to " reverse the polarity ", before returning the wires to the connector,
install each wire on a terminal in an easy to get at injector. You should feel some resistance pushing the wire on and similar resistance when pulling the wire off.
Do this with all 4 injector wires before assembling the connectors. We are just confirming the wiring can complete a good connection. Good luck
 
I agree 100% on getting the the TFI out of the equation, just to rule it out one way or the other.
On a recent 2500 km ride my second TFI died, very similar to the first one. I started to notice an occasional miss, then it got progressively worse. After about 30 km the rear cylinder was totally dead. It would occasionally fire but mostly it was dead. Based on my first TFI experience I suspected it right away. I disconnected the TFI from the injector wiring and she ran just fine.

It was suggested above that you could simply disconnect the TFI ground wire to defeat it. While this would certainly stop it from adding fuel, I am not sure it would solve an intermittent issue, since it is wired in series between the HD EFI and the injectors. I would disconnect it right at the injectors.

Rod
 
I have the day off today so I am going to get started on it again. I will take the dobeck completely off the bike, then hook the 02's back up for the stock computer and put the wiring back to its origanal form after a good check of all of them again. Do you think that my check engine lite hasnt come on because the dobeck bypasses/unplugs the injectors? I do however agree with HOGROTTEN about pulling the dobeck and doing a sert, but I dont have plans for internal upgrades just yet. I only have a breather and pipes, just need it to not run so lean that it kills the bike. Its got a 103 interceptor on it, and seems to have plenty of power, I would just like it to run good and not kill it. Im gonna get to work on it and will try to have the results posted later today or tomarow, it really chilly up here today and I dont have cold weather riding gear "not even a leather jacket" so Im gonna have to pull out the hunting gear in order to ride. Thanks to all of you guys, Ill have results up ASAP.
 
OK guys, I completely removed the dobeck, checked the injector wires and reversed them back to the way they were and pluged in the o2's to the front and rear pipe. I started the king, and let it run for around 8 to 10 minutes in neutral to get good and warm. I have no obvious miss out of the rear cyclinder as before. I did notice that the tack would move from 950 to 1000 every so offten, but just ever so slightly. It does sound like a harley now and not a honda with straight pipes. I know that the computer has a stock tune on it, and was told that with pipes and a breather I would burn my motor up by riding in stock tune. How can I check to see if it has the hesitation during shifting and the popping. Before it might not do it for a hour or longer, then it might do it for three days. So I dont know if the idle is just a fluke or what. I dont want to burn it up. What do I do?
 
Rhys said:
OK guys, I completely removed the dobeck, checked the injector wires and reversed them back to the way they were and pluged in the o2's to the front and rear pipe. I started the king, and let it run for around 8 to 10 minutes in neutral to get good and warm. I have no obvious miss out of the rear cyclinder as before. I did notice that the tack would move from 950 to 1000 every so offten, but just ever so slightly. It does sound like a harley now and not a honda with straight pipes. I know that the computer has a stock tune on it, and was told that with pipes and a breather I would burn my motor up by riding in stock tune. How can I check to see if it has the hesitation during shifting and the popping. Before it might not do it for a hour or longer, then it might do it for three days. So I dont know if the idle is just a fluke or what. I dont want to burn it up. What do I do?
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I really hope you use a Big fan BLOWING thru the engine exhaust side of the bike when doing this type of warm up... You need a big fan to blow air across the pipes and engine heads so NOT to damage the engine. more than 2/3 minutes is tops for Not getting too hot... Remember, these bikes are Air Cooled....

signed....BUBBIE
 
Yeppers, I used a blower that a buddy and I made from a furnace! were are good there. How long can I ride it in stock tune with true duals and a stage one breather? I would like to see if it cleard up.
 
Rhys said:
Yeppers, I used a blower that a buddy and I made from a furnace! were are good there. How long can I ride it in stock tune with true duals and a stage one breather? I would like to see if it cleard up.
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So you changed the exhaust and stage 1 air cleaner with out adding fuel? I don't know the long term answer to this but I will tell you Harley will scare you to believe this will cause IMMEDIATE engine damage
 
If you still have the stock A/C then put it back on.I would think the ECM parameters would take care of the AFR's even with True Duals.Hoople or someone else may know about that.It's been stated here with just muffler changes no ECM download needed,not sure about with True Duals.
tourbox
 
tourbox said:
If you still have the stock A/C then put it back on.I would think the ECM parameters would take care of the AFR's even with True Duals.Hoople or someone else may know about that.It's been stated here with just muffler changes no ECM download needed,not sure about with True Duals.
tourbox
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My vote also. You will likely run a bit wormer and leaner than normal, but, you probably won't damage the engine this way.

Good luck,
Rich P
 
tourbox said:
If you still have the stock A/C then put it back on.I would think the ECM parameters would take care of the AFR's even with True Duals.Hoople or someone else may know about that.It's been stated here with just muffler changes no ECM download needed,not sure about with True Duals.
tourbox
Click to expand...

That would be correct with what the MOCO has said, you can safely do one or the other and still be OK and not void your warranty. I did the exhaust first on my Streetbob and ran it 15k miles with No problems:s
 
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