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PARADE MODE

You said you never had any codes until you went to this shop, What codes did you get after the shop worked on your bike? Did you check the injector wires for cracks, they have been known to break or crack making intermittent contact. How about a dirty or bad injector? have you done a fuel rail pressure test? Have you inspected, tested or replaced plugs and wires? How about your coil output?

As you can see there are several things to check as this will be a process of elimination to figure out if this is fuel related or electrical.
 
The same code keeps coming up every once in a while, for the throttle body connection. I read that this happens to a lot of throttle bodies. I disconnected the plug, sprayed both the body contacts, and the plug itself with brake cleaner. Gently blew it dry with compressed air, put a light coat of diaeletric grease. Since then it’s been behaving much better. But it still has its moments. Today after I’m done with Momma’s car and my Pickup. I’m going to try the cleaning of the hole of the throttle body. It can’t hurt, sometime it idles so beautiful and other times it definitely misfires on and off. But it does this more often then not. I recently had the tank off physically looked at the wiring not know this is an issue. I did unplug and reconnected both injector wires. I took the tank off because I smelled like a wire loom burn, and I was concerned. It turned out that one of the wire looms was laying against the rear of the front head just above the OEM bracket for the air cleaner housing. I got myself a frame clamp, aquired a little slack and moved the loom away from the head just enough to stop the smell. I changed the plugs and wires last year. While I had the tank off, I rerouted the front plug wire because I didn’t like it laying against the edges of the engine parts. I also moved one of the plug wire supports because of the love jugs wiring and frame bracket. I mounted the love jugs and horn to a frame mounted bracket so they don’t shake around in the traditional way. I’m trying to draw you a good picture so it makes it easier for you to get a better understanding of what’s going on here. Thank you for your input I appreciate it.

Anthony C
 
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Did you notice if it runs rough at the same time it throws the code or doesn't it matter?
When it seems the rear cylinder is not firing try wiggling the rear injector wires, see if the ideal improves.

Try eliminating 1 thing at a time until you find what's causing the issue.
 
Got it, I’ll try to do just that. I’ll keep everyone posted so we can all learn from experiences from each other. I didn’t pay attention to that because I was frustrated I had no throttle response
Thanks again.

Anthony

A1783BDE-FDAF-4F62-A37B-ECAE163E4F24.jpeg 3CF741A2-4C4B-4C69-A62C-20EA4E9F96B9.jpeg Well I removed the air filter and exposed the throttle body. There is no hole at the top center. I don’t have throttle cables, the throttle body is controlled all by wire. I know the throttle body you guys are talking about. My brother- in- law has a 2014 soft tail classic. He has throttle cables, and I cleaned his when he was here from Connecticut because it stalled every now and then coming to a traffic light after getting off the highway. It always started right up. He said it still stalls, but not near as much as it did before. Here’s what my throttle body looks like

OK. I started the engine without the filter just to see what goes on. The butterfly stays closed, with my laser thermometer I measured the temperature of the head pipes and the spark plugs. The front head pipe ranges from 290° to 304° right where the pipe meets the head. The rear head pipe stays right at 160° right where it meets the head. No fuel! This is weird, but then I realized my common sense is working. I used the laser and measured the temperature of the spark plugs, ready for this? The front plug was right around 180° The rear plug was 275°. At first it made no sense. As soon as I opened the throttle just a little to about 2,000 RPM’s the rear plug temperature started dropping, because I gave it gasoline to help cool it off. Then I turned on the Love Jugs, and the temperature started dropping even more! Whatever controls The rear injector at an idle is at fault. I have to look in my book to see if I can find the parade mode, and what controls it when the throttle position sensor is at zero. As soon as the throttle is moved, the temperature starts dropping. And it runs smooth. Any takers on this one?

Again thanks is advance,

Anthony C
 
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Sounds like for some reason at ideal it's kicking into parade mode, don't know why but from what I understand that's how parade mode works.

Maybe someone with more knowledge of how it works will chime in.
 
On a n '09 with TBW (no cables) you should be able to turn the Parade mode(ETIMS) on or off by way of the throttle. ETIMS stands for
ENGINE TEMPERATURE IDLE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM. to enable or disable do the following;
I don't know if the Run/Kill is on or off. If you don't get the red or green light try it(run/kill) in the other position.
1. TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH TO THE ON POSITION ( DO NOT START THE ENGINE.)
2. PUSH THE THROTTLE TO ROLL-OFF POSITION AND HOLD. All the way forward and them some.
3. AFTER APPROXIMATELY 3 SECONDS, THE CRUISE INDICATOR LAMP WILL EITHER FLASH GREEN (ETIMS ENABLED) (OR RED ETIMS DISABLED).
4. REPEAT THE PROCEDURE AS NEEDED TO ENABLE OR DISABLE ETIMS.
tourbox
 
You can activate and de activate the system with engine running, roll the throttle past closed and hold until the cruise light turns red = off, green = on
 
Gentlemen, I’m up on rolling the throttle forward to turn the parade on and off. The parade mode kills the spark, in this case it’s killing the gas supply. I could be wrong, but I think it has to do with the throttle body. The parade mode should activate at higher engine temperatures, not right after the engine senser reduces the idle from a absolutely cold engine that’s just warming up.
I just checked for any codes again. NOTHING, so back to scratching my head.

Thanks again,

Anthony C
 
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