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PARADE MODE

I would like to take the time to say thank you to all that participated in my crazy problem. It’s never so easy, but I’m sure it’s something simple. I looked in my HD repair manual, and it shows nothing on sensor OHMS/VOLTS. That’s a whole other electrical manual to try and check OHMS and outputs to any sensors. I came across a video last night on YOU TUBE on exactly how the MAP sensor works, a long with the MAF sensors. I have a feeling it’s the throttle body itself. I could be wrong, but the only code I ever read was for the throttle body connection. Do I want to start changing parts in the dark, NO. sometimes it idles so smooth I scratch my head. The MAP sensor helps control the length of the pulse to the injectors. At an idle (in between the inside of the butterfly to the intake valve) the intake is at a high rate of vacuum, this tells the MAP sensor to shorten the pulses of the injectors because there’s no atmosphreric pressure there. Now wide open throttle theres 14.7 lbs of atmospheric pressure. In turn there’s pressure on the MAP sensor which in turn lengthens the pulse to the injectors, the result is more fuel. But I can’t check any of the volts from the MAP because I don’t know what is good and what is unacceptable. At any rate it’s not flashing any codes. That’s why I say it may be the connection to the throttle body, or an injector that is slacking on very short pluses. I’ll have to play with it more and see what I come up with. I’ll keep you guys posted. Thank you very much again.

Anthony C.
 
tourbox said:
On a n '09 with TBW (no cables) you should be able to turn the Parade mode(ETIMS) on or off by way of the throttle. ETIMS stands for
ENGINE TEMPERATURE IDLE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM. to enable or disable do the following;
I don't know if the Run/Kill is on or off. If you don't get the red or green light try it(run/kill) in the other position.
1. TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH TO THE ON POSITION ( DO NOT START THE ENGINE.)
2. PUSH THE THROTTLE TO ROLL-OFF POSITION AND HOLD. All the way forward and them some.
3. AFTER APPROXIMATELY 3 SECONDS, THE CRUISE INDICATOR LAMP WILL EITHER FLASH GREEN (ETIMS ENABLED) (OR RED ETIMS DISABLED).
4. REPEAT THE PROCEDURE AS NEEDED TO ENABLE OR DISABLE ETIMS.
tourbox
Click to expand...
Although the light will flash green or red. I don’t know if it actually turns the ETIMS off when it’s running. I don’t think I’ve ever tried it with the engine off with the key on. If I did, I don’t recall. I’m going to try that this evening.
 
It sounds to me like you either have a bad injector or something in the on board computer is telling the rear injector to shut down at ideal.

I don't understand why you don't get a code.

Have you tried what joel suggested when it doesn't fire? I'm curious if there is a complete circuit of power to the injector when it acts up. If your getting power then i'd say replace the injector.
 
I’ll try to remove the plug on the injector while it’s running. I think by loosening the front bolts on the tank, and removing the rear bolt, prop a block of wood or something under the rear of the tank. That should give me just enough room to remove the plug from the injector. After watching that video on you tube. It give me a better insight on what goes on with the injector pulse. Maybe the injector is dirty and doesn’t do well with a short pulse. I can even try my multi meter on the voltage to see how much voltage I’m actually getting. Come to think of it, sometimes it cranks longer in the morning to get started, but is always starts! A few times I turned the key on, let the pump build pressure. Turn the key off, turn it back on build pressure again. And the engine fires right off as if it was running all day. That make me think. Could it be a dirty injector? OK I’m going to pull the plug off the injector while it acting up and see what happens. Then I’ll shut it down rig some type of connector to check the voltage to the injector. And start it back up and see. Maybe I’ll get a code then?!
 
Anthony C said:
I think by loosening the front bolts on the tank, and removing the rear bolt, prop a block of wood or something under the rear of the tank.
Click to expand...

Yes, that will give you more room to get your hands in there.
I'd be more interested in seeing if there is power to the injector when it acts up. If you have steady power then you are starting to eliminate it as a electrical issue.

Maybe the ECM is bad?
Go to the search forums and type in" rear cylinder not firing "and read some of the posts, see if anything helps you with your issue.
 
Last edited:
Jeff I was thinking about what you said about a light bulb. I have a 12 volt test light, that will do the same thing. Back in the day I used that test light after pulling a plug wire off a V8 engine. The test light pulses just as you mentioned for the injector. I had an old BUICK for 39 years with a straight eight engine, the plug conections were bare. This engine wasn’t running on all eight. I connected the ground of the test to ground and went to each plug. It would short out all the firing plugs except for the one that wasn’t firing. Simple and easy trick I learned, I’m not telling you how long ago. It’s been a while let’s put it that way.
I count my blessings and celebrate every birthday. Thanks Jeff

Anthony.
 
Yes in deed, that will work. I have a test light that looks like a screwdriver with the light in the handle and a ice pick probe on the other end. I use it a lot to check wires for power, 1 of the best tools in the box.
 
If your going to check the injector lead for pulse have the light ready so you can while the engine is misfireing,
Unplug the injector with engine running and test at the connector. This way you catch it during the misfire.
Wiggle the harness before disconnecting it to see if it makes an effect on idle, disconnect it if it doesn't and put the test light in to complete the circuit as if it was the injector, if it blinks than it is a connection at the injector or the injector.
No blink than it is a injector control issue.
 
Didn't get to do the resistance test last night, Sorry
Most injectors have a range of 12.5 - 14. Ohm resistance when working, we test them cold and again when hot, temp can change these readings but not a bunch.
I will try to test this evening if I don't get home too late from work.
There are many things that can contribute to the symptom of no fuel from 1 injector, including low pressure / volume.
But to be the rear it seems that is also the injector turned off when in engine temp management takes over.
Behind my air cleaner is the electronic throttle body, is that the connector the guy had to reconnect you mention in the original post?
If so and if you had no problem with idle prior to that shops service, that is where to start with a close look at the connector and the pins in the electronic throttle body.
 
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