DadzLowrider
Active Member
Thanks. New tins should be here tomorrow and rims, pulley and rotors the week after next.
Ignition switch swap question
- Thread starter DadzLowrider
- Start date
Thanks. New tins should be here tomorrow and rims, pulley and rotors the week after next.
cdn-bigfoot
Junior Member
Since this is an Ignition switch swap post.
Thought I might pick all your brains. I have a 2 inch hole now in my dash for the switch. The switch body measures 1 7/8 inch. What can I trim my switch with and make up that 1/16 inch all around the switch body. A rubber ring that straddles the metal of the dash would be great. Any other ideas?
Thought I might pick all your brains. I have a 2 inch hole now in my dash for the switch. The switch body measures 1 7/8 inch. What can I trim my switch with and make up that 1/16 inch all around the switch body. A rubber ring that straddles the metal of the dash would be great. Any other ideas?
jmpancoast
Active Member
Got this from someone else who did a similar mod.
Check out cableorganizer.com
part# O-RPD-G3311
2"X1/8"
cdn-bigfoot
Junior Member
Great suggestion JMP.
Just don't have the dimensions I need.
I need these dimensions.
ID = 1 7/8"
GD = 2"
OD = 2 1/4" +
GW = 1/16" - 1/8"
THK = 1/4" +
These guys don't offer rubber grommets in the dimensions I require.
What I did find is a hard plastic "desk grommet" that fits a 2" hole and could easily be shaved to fit the 1 7/8" body of my switch. Shipping will be 5 times the cost of the grommet so I'll check my local office depot tomorrow.
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cdn-bigfoot
Junior Member
I've mocked up the switch on my old (now painted) tank top plate.
I cut a plate from some aluminum stock to mount the switch to. The angle of the switch needs to match the dash. To achieve this I have used longer bolts to the top of switch and angled my homemade plate with a few extra washers under it. Remember to use the stock gasket washer next to the stock Tank Top Plate to ensure a good seal.
I also left a space at the bottom of my homemade plate for water to drain if it gets under the dash.
I also chromed my dash, after drilling a 2" hole for the new switch. I just need to find a good grommet to fill the 1/16 inch gap around the switch body.
I will take more photo's once it is all together.
I cut a plate from some aluminum stock to mount the switch to. The angle of the switch needs to match the dash. To achieve this I have used longer bolts to the top of switch and angled my homemade plate with a few extra washers under it. Remember to use the stock gasket washer next to the stock Tank Top Plate to ensure a good seal.
I also left a space at the bottom of my homemade plate for water to drain if it gets under the dash.
I also chromed my dash, after drilling a 2" hole for the new switch. I just need to find a good grommet to fill the 1/16 inch gap around the switch body.
I will take more photo's once it is all together.
porkchop
Active Member
OK. This is what i did. Go to the auto parts store and tell the guys you need to look at all there thermostat housing o-rings, I found one that has a groove on the inside of the ring that was the correct diameter for the switch and i had to turn it inside out so that the groove was on the outside and fit the 2" hole you drilled in your dash, It looks as if it was made for it. I never even got the part number for it, I just looked through there inventory of the with the switch in hand. the O-ring is a flat type not your typical round type.
cdn-bigfoot
Junior Member
The electroplating company removed all the wrinkle black chemically.
Sanding will NOT work.
I am very happy with the results.
