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*Twin Cam CV Carb Rejet Suggestions

Where in the heck do you buy #4 washers.
Been to advance auto, ace, home depot. #6 is the smallest they have that I can find



SL
 
Where in the heck do you buy #4 washers.
Been to advance auto, ace, home depot. #6 is the smallest they have that I can find

SL

If you're referring to the #4 brass washers, I got mine at Lowes. Put 2 of them in the carb on my old Heritage and it made a huge difference. Response was greatly improved when taking off from a stop. I no longer have that bike, but sure do miss her :(. But then again, I really like my new one too :D.
 
Sure could use some help. 95 inch twin cam softail . branch heads larger valves screaming eagle ign 44 mm cv carb. vance and hines pro pipe . I have tried 190 195 200 205 220 main jet. the bike runs great till wide open throttle then it cuts out around 4500 rpm and will clear up some after 5200 rpm I have moved the needle frome top to bottom. if I put the 220 in and raise the needle to the last slot I can get the bike to run great on top end but jerky in the lower rpm range. this bike has 590 lift cams with 248 dur. roller rocker arms . makes 185 compression pleas help Thanks.
 
I'm not good with the numbers, but hopefully, one of our gurus will be along to offer some assistance soon!
 
Sure could use some help. 95 inch twin cam softail . branch heads larger valves screaming eagle ign 44 mm cv carb. vance and hines pro pipe . I have tried 190 195 200 205 220 main jet. the bike runs great till wide open throttle then it cuts out around 4500 rpm and will clear up some after 5200 rpm I have moved the needle frome top to bottom. if I put the 220 in and raise the needle to the last slot I can get the bike to run great on top end but jerky in the lower rpm range. this bike has 590 lift cams with 248 dur. roller rocker arms . makes 185 compression pleas help Thanks.

Whilst I can be jealous for your expenditures, I pose another question for the Gurus:
05' TC88, Stage 1 air filter with SEII pipes, baffles modified by me for better backpressure and, ridding them of the assymetrical beer-can slash that forced air to one side of the pipe to enter the outer chamber, and using cones I built, centered in the pipe, force gasses symmetrically into a circle of holes leading to the outer chamber, other gasses passing the cones go down the center: led to more torque.
Then, Andrews 21 torque cams and carb mods.
I DO need the 48 jet, have gone as far as 50, but came back. Sportster needle with one washer beneath. Original stock mileage was not great, 36 city, 42 hwy, and is still the same, but with massively better performance.
My stickler is this: it used to pop a lot, now does not, absolutely LOVES higher elevations, getting as much as 47mpg in the twisties with the hammer down. What boggles me is, at about my 1000rpm (I guess) idle, it sometimes just "misses a beat" and STALLS, often at stoplights. It idles best at heat, and will stall more easily at cold running, after the enrichener pulls itself back in.
Leaner pilot won't work and the 50 didn't help, so I backed off to the 48, and overall, this is one freaky great bike to ride!
 
Is the slide drilled? How many miles on the bike and carb? You say there have been "carb mods". What else was done besides re-jet? Have you checked for intake leaks?
 
It does sound like you are weak at low revs as it is better when the enricher is in play and adding fuel
checking for an Intake leak would be a good start point
I am not convinced that the use of the sportster needle is the best thing for a carb with an accelerator pump as you could end up with too much fuel causing the engine to bog down under some conditions
The steeper taper on the sportster needle was there to add fuel quickly to overcome the fact that there was no accelerator pump in the early versions of the CV carb fitted to sportsters
The enricher knob should stay where you set it and not back off on its own perhaps you need to adjust the tension on the plastic nut just behind the knob
Carbed bikes may need the enricher to be used till the engine is fully up to operating temperature the knob should be backed off as the engine warms up but not fully in till engine is up to temperature

Brian
 
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