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SE Pro Super Tuner + Smart Tune Software

flh canuck said:
...but I am surprised that the Harley SEPST canned map for the 103" was still lean even after making fairly siginificant increases in the ve tables.
Click to expand...

Thanks FLH! I think Hoople found similar findings in his research.

I still like the product. I just need to now forget about it and stop tinkering with stuff.

Ride safe and have fun.

Can't recall where I got this link, but conceptually it has helped me understand some things better about ECUs, etc...

http://www.megamanual.com/begintuning.htm
 
Ran alot of miles this past weekend and got an average of 46 mpg running mostly 60-70 constant highway speed and some city traffic. Not too bad. Heat doesn't seems to be an issue and it was in the mid to high 80s. The love bugs were another story....
 
Hi There Hoople and Grillfish,
I'm pretty new to this forum.
I am looking for some advice with new SE pro super tuner.
Last year I had my ECM (EDIT) out.
Had a Vance and Hines Fuelpak on the old ecm.
When I had a new ECM put in, I went with the SE Pro Super Tuner instead.
Now when I had the fuelpak on, I had absolutely no popping, crackling, or backfiring.
When I went to the tuner, it pops, crackles, and backfires like crazy.
So, I'm pretty sure the tuner can be adjusted to eliminate all this.
I had the dealer try 3 times with no success.
I'm ready, I think to try myself.
I am thinking about buying the software, cables, and laptop to do it.
Is this a wise move?
And is it possible for me, a total novice, to do any of this and not (EDIT) my whole system up?
I read all the posts and seen about changing VE tables, AFR, and decel enleanment.
Not quite sure on how to do anything or about using the data recorder.
Would you guys be able to point me in the right direction?
Thanks in advance!

Please read this...

A Friendly Reminder - Harley Davidson Community

 
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hammy380 said:
I am thinking about buying the software, cables, and laptop to do it.
Is this a wise move?
Click to expand...

I would say before making a purchase such as that, you need at least to fully understand closed loop feedback engine management. The pro-tuner software does not teach you that. You said the dealership couldn't get it right and I will assume that your bike was not the first one he tried to tune. That shows you that tuning is not simply making a change or entry in a map.

An exhaust analyzer is also needed if you want to do it right.
 
hammy380 said:
Hi There Hoople and Grillfish,
I'm pretty new to this forum.
I am looking for some advice with new SE pro super tuner.
Last year I had my ECM (EDIT) out.
Had a Vance and Hines Fuelpak on the old ecm.
When I had a new ECM put in, I went with the SE Pro Super Tuner instead.
Now when I had the fuelpak on, I had absolutely no popping, crackling, or backfiring.
When I went to the tuner, it pops, crackles, and backfires like crazy.
So, I'm pretty sure the tuner can be adjusted to eliminate all this.
I had the dealer try 3 times with no success.
I'm ready, I think to try myself.
I am thinking about buying the software, cables, and laptop to do it.
Is this a wise move?
And is it possible for me, a total novice, to do any of this and not (EDIT) my whole system up?
I read all the posts and seen about changing VE tables, AFR, and decel enleanment.
Not quite sure on how to do anything or about using the data recorder.
Would you guys be able to point me in the right direction?
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Based on my own experience with the SEPST I would suggest you find yourself a good dyno tuner who knows Harleys and how to set them up. Depending on your engine mods, the smart tune feature does a pretty good job but as Hoople stated, an exhaust analyzer is the best way to optimize the settings with this unit.

You could invest in the equipment, cables, software etc. as it is not rocket science but without a dyno and exhaust analyzer you will be doing a lot of trial and error to get it right.

If your dealer had it back three times and couldn't get it right, I would look elsewhere cause they obviously either don't have the experience or don`t have the equipment to set it up properly. The SEPST is a very good tuner but only in the hands of somebody who knows what they are doing.

Your drivability issues are pretty typical but should be easily resolved with a proper tune. A good dyno tune is not cheap but if done properly, it is well worth the money.
 
As Hoople and canuck said, you do have options. I bet the dealer just found the closest map and said there you go. I had major poping (decel and closing the throtle to shift) on the initial map, but then spent a month or so SmartTuning it and it's all but eliminated decel issue and only dealing with sporatic pop when the throttle is closing now. Been very busy with work so have not had time to do my final tweak of the decel enleanment table.

If you can find someone to borrow the software (you can install that as many times as you want on different pcs) and the cables and a laptop (you can store your maps you create on a flash drive), you could do some SmartTune runs to true up the VEs and assess where those poping issues are occurring. It's actually fun to do and you learn alot.

The other option, bring your VCI (orange box that is married to the ECM) to a reputable tuner and have him create a new map. You then should be set. I've seen places in FL cost $300 for a full dyno-tune up to $500 (taking 5 hours or so).

Good luck.
 
Not to DAMPEN your sprits here OR your choice of Tuners....

I am one who is Glad I went with the TFI on my 09 FLHR..

full stage one and now installed SE255 cams in my 96" motor..
Running Perfect, Not lean and not popping out the exhaust and done in ONE little adjustment with My screwdriver.

The tuning I read and the use of special equipment is not for all.. I know MY limits and many others LEARN theirs..

The tune with a screwdriver on ONE pot mainly to fit the bike is MUCH easier to me than to get involved with hooking up wires and computers and RE-mapping... Let alone the $$$$$ involved and the Dyno Time$$$$...

I MARVAL at the members here WHO Can do this Tuning but for me SIMPLICITY and having a good running bike is a MUST.. Saving $$ also helps in selecting the best tuner For Me....

255$ and one adjustment and DONE..

signed....BUBBIE

PLEASE don't take my WRONG on my response to this thread, I have read it all and DO understand Most but to apply it to MY Bike I ride for Pleasure just doesn't fit me..

LOTS of Great answers to this thread... Good Job by All..

Older Fashioned BUBBIE, Happy with simple technology TFI/Gen3
and Maybe Gen4

signed....BUBBIE
 
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Thanks for all your replies!
One other thing with my bike is when you are sitting at a stop and you give the engine a good hard rev and let off the throttle totally, you get a monster backfire and a nice flame out the 2 pipes. What is this telling me? I have excess fuel from not tuned right or something? Also, I said when I am decelerating and using the engine as a brake, I get the annoying popping and crackling. However, if I don't let off the throttle totally, meaning I just keep the throttle cracked a tiny bit, I don't get the popping. Is this possible that when I had the dealer try and fix this, they told me they keep adjusting the decel enleanment table and possibly they are taking to much fuel away. Maybe going the opposite way and giving it a little more gas will help? Any thoughts?
I have no engine mods other than SE stage 1 high flow air cleaner and Slip on Rinehart racing pipes.

Thanks
 
hammy380 said:
they told me they keep adjusting the decel enleanment table and possibly they are taking to much fuel away.
Click to expand...

I would put the decel enleanment table back to it's original setting. Then go to your A/F table and reduce A/F in the 27 MAP pressure setting (very first column) from 1000 RPM to 5000 RPM. Reduce it by a bunch just to see what happens. Should help.

(Record what it is before you make a change)
 
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