SE Pro Super Tuner + Smart Tune Software

Discussion in 'Engine, Fuel and Exhaust' started by Grillfish, Dec 28, 2010.

  1. Grillfish

    Grillfish Junior Member

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    Looking for anyone who has installed the SEPST, loaded a base map, then did their own tuning using the Smart Tune feature w/out a dyno.

    I've been running the TFI for 2 yrs now and very happy, but curious about the Smart Tune feature where you record for 15 minutes, upload the readings, let the ST feature re-do the map, then flash it back into the ECM.

    Also, can anyone confirm if the softward/tuner is compatible with Windows 7? I'd assume yes, but just confirming.

    Thoughts appreciated before I call the dealer to see if they can match LSHD1.

    Ride safe and have fun.
     
  2. R.Bingham

    R.Bingham Active Member

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    I think that Hoople has a SESPT and has been doing that.

    I know that you can also do the same thing with a MasterTune TTS.
    Here is link to a great write up that someone did doing V-tunes and then putting it on a dyno to see what was left on the table so to speak.

    2010 Ultra Limited Tune

    That link may answer a lot of your questions.

    HTH,
    Randall
     
  3. Grillfish

    Grillfish Junior Member

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    Great link, Randall. Thanks so much. More to read, which I love as I'm 2 yrs new to EFI bikes and a novice for sure compared to other folks out there. I'm use to carbs :).

    Ride safe and have fun!

    Thanks again for the link, Randall. I bought the SEPST w/ Smart Tune. Taking me a few days to figure it out, but I had the dealer install a base map for me. I've made 3 recorded runs using the VCI (orange box plugged into the data port). I've run Smart Tune on both front and rear VE tables, saved a new map and reflashed. Pretty easy. I love the ability to review live recorded data of the runs. I'm learning all about the different data points involved in our EFI bikes. Still a novice but love the aspects of learning this stuff.

    I'm going to keep recording, running Smart Tune and reflashing until I get some good VE #s where they do not change that much from the previous map. It's a little hard to get all the cells filled up when your on the road, but I'm getting there.

    My first tank full with the first reflash was 41 MPG, so pretty good.

    Got some decel poping when the throttle is closed using the engine as a brake around 2K (higher up in the RPM range when going faster), but I'll keep tweaking it. I checked and do not have an exhaust leak, so it's the open pipes and tune is the culprit prob (work continues)

    Have a good one!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 4, 2011
  4. Brutal FXDX

    Brutal FXDX Active Member

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    Grillfish. Ive smart tuned a few bikes on the dyno with sest and was not happy with how it made changes. And what ive been wondering what does it tune to. All i can think is that it tunes to 14.7 afr and therefore only smart tunes when the bike is in closed loop (Crusing). I would say good for stock bike or stage 1, but im not happy with Smart tune on a built motor so i quit doing it all together. We do have a dyno so ive never smartuned without one. Just my opinion.
     
  5. Grillfish

    Grillfish Junior Member

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    I'm no expert but, my AFR table is set @ 14.6 for the majority of the cruise mode up to 3750 and up to 75 MAP. 14.6 is the switch to run in closed loop. My Closed Loop Bias table is set at 762, so in closed loop the CBLs will richen it up some.

    My VE tables have been changing as I done some recorded runs and ran Smart Tune. I'm hoping in about 3-4 more runs in different rpms/MAP areas, I have some good VE numbers (where the changes are small). Most of the changes have been in cruise area where closed loop is, but that is where most of my riding is at.

    I'm thinking the SESPT w/ Smart Tune is similar in concept to the TTS w/ V-Tune. The one thing the TTS is better at, it has a broad range of base maps to choose from and the SEPST uses just HD SE parts, you choose the closest calibration and go from there.

    So far I'm happy (once I figure out this decel poping, I can not find an exhaust leak anywhere) and have learned alot about EFI but still a novie (or 1st grade if you think about it in a school perspective).

    Thanks for your input.

    Have a good one.
     
  6. Brutal FXDX

    Brutal FXDX Active Member

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    Good to hear grillfish. Ive been thinking of using a tts here soon. The TTS software is made by the same guy that made the software for sert &sest so there are some simalarites. Good Luck
     
  7. Grillfish

    Grillfish Junior Member

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    Agree. The concepts are similar, but I'm sure the detail on the programming has differences. I'm following a TTS thread on another forum and it's amazing what these products can do. Just more complicated than my previous fueler, the TFI, which I hope I do not regret taking it off.

    If I can figure out how to post some picture of my tables, I'll share so others can see what I'm looking at.

    Have a good one.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    UPDATE: I made some adjustments to my decel enleanment and AFRs to help my decel poping. I looked at my recordings and found where my popings occured (RPMs and MAP). I decreased by decel enleanment by 50% and then dropped my AFR down to 13.9 from closed loop 14.6 @ 20 MAP from 1750 to 3500. This is where the decel poping was happening. I reflashed the bike and went for a short ride for only 30 minutes due to work today. My decel poping is gone. Still have the normal gurgle you get when backing down due to open pipes that I'm use to.

    Makes me real happy. Now that I know how to elimiate the pop, I'll keep doing some recordings and Smart tunes. Then will reflash with Adaptive Fuel option checked and run through 3-4 tanks of gas to let it do some learning of it's own and mearsure my MPG.

    Ride safe and have fun.

    .
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 5, 2011
  8. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    I don't know if it is the easiest way to do it but what I did was just print the table and then take a close up picture of the printed page. Worked great and gave very clear results.

    Grillfish, what is the file number of the base map your starting with. I wanted to follow along with the changes your making from the original base map. Be aware that the base maps were written for alky free fuel and you should allow for E10 in your calculations if your forcing open loop control.
     
  9. Grillfish

    Grillfish Junior Member

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    Hey Hoople. Base calibration: 205TD004 (the dealer wrote a -001 after the number but I think they did that for versioning. It's for 2008-09 Touring w/ SE Intake, Race exhaust and 96ci, ACR Disabled.

    Yes, I read about the E10, but need to understand this more before I make more changes and run in open loop w/out my VE tables adjusted by Smart Tune.

    I've only done 3 recorded runs/Smart Tuned the VE tables and only have seen changes in the closed loop 14.6 area / cruise area of my VE Tables. I think I need to do more runs to get higher throttle position and lower in the RPM range readings but having trouble doing that.

    Once I feel good about my VE tabes and they do not change much, I'm going to try smoothing of the VE tables (left to right/top to bottom) from my last VE that was changed by Smart Tune (Reading pdf file from Doc's Tuning). But I may not even smooth this out for the areas that Smart Tune didn't touch.

    I'll then go back to the AFR tables and go back to origonal where 14.6 closed loop is mostly in cruise range and open loop higher in RPM range and higher in the MAP range.

    I have a scanner so I'll see if I can scan in a print our and post some pics.

    Oh by the way, if you scratching your head about what I've written, it's ok, I'm trying my best to go through this process, write down what I did and with all that I've read in manuals, I'm moving in the right direction, I think :)

    Any input please share :)

    AFR Table:

    When I record in Smart Tune, I change everything to 14.6 closed loop and take my time. This is the origonal AFR map in the calibration except for me changing some cells at 20 MAP (13.9 1750 to 3500 to eliminate decel poping. It worked).

    [​IMG]

    My rear cylinder VE table after 3 Smart Tunes:

    [​IMG]

    Where the changes have been to my rear cylinder VE tables as compared to the origonal calibration:

    [​IMG]

    Front cylinder VE tables after 3 Smart tunes:

    [​IMG]

    Front cylider changes to my VE tables after 3 Smart Tunes:

    [​IMG]

    As you can see in the front/rear highlighted section of the changes, it seems I've only been able to make hits in the cruise area and need to do more recordings in other areas.

    Closed Loop Bias tables:

    [​IMG]

    I've read not to go over 800 or the O2 sensors will not last long. Also read 640 will give a good balace between cooler engine/good MPG, but the dealer who installed the base map used the higher number. If I changed these CBLS, I've heard I have to start all over again w/ my Smart Turing recordings.

    So thoughts? Suggestions to this new user of this tuner...

    Thanks!

    PS: Good idea about taking pictures :)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 4, 2011
  10. Brutal FXDX

    Brutal FXDX Active Member

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    Good pics Grillfish! I usually set my closed loop bias @ 775, which was what they taught me in tuner class. Are you reflashing ecm to a regular map after smart tuning? The smart tune map (smart tune enaled) should only be used for data collection.