no start 87 FLHTC
- Thread starter Mac@taQ
- Start date
hey Steve
I am near the Falls.
I think I have already ruled out the handlebar switch. I put my meter on the terminal on the relay that has the tan wire to the solenoid, heard the click and got 12v when pressed 0v when released. also connected back to relay and got 12v at small post on solenoid, 0v when released. I removed the solenoid again and the disc was arced.
Mac
okay don't know if anyone is still looking in on this post but here goes.
I decided after several install/remove solenoids to go ahead and remove the primary case a get a look at the other side of the problem. as you can see the pinion gear is still riding(partially) on the clutch ring gear. I would think with the power removed that pinion should be pulled back from the clutch ring? no amount of "convincing" will allow it to be pushed back off of the clutch, although I can move it so it is in complete contact with the clutch ring gear.
I am thinking my next move is to remove starter shaft assembly and see what's going on behind there...any tips, suggestions...prayers?
thanks
Mac
I am near the Falls.
I think I have already ruled out the handlebar switch. I put my meter on the terminal on the relay that has the tan wire to the solenoid, heard the click and got 12v when pressed 0v when released. also connected back to relay and got 12v at small post on solenoid, 0v when released. I removed the solenoid again and the disc was arced.
Mac
okay don't know if anyone is still looking in on this post but here goes.
I decided after several install/remove solenoids to go ahead and remove the primary case a get a look at the other side of the problem. as you can see the pinion gear is still riding(partially) on the clutch ring gear. I would think with the power removed that pinion should be pulled back from the clutch ring? no amount of "convincing" will allow it to be pushed back off of the clutch, although I can move it so it is in complete contact with the clutch ring gear.
I am thinking my next move is to remove starter shaft assembly and see what's going on behind there...any tips, suggestions...prayers?
thanks
Mac
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Having looked at the picture it all looks out of line and some of those parts should sit flush with the inner primary I am not sure if it is a coupling or bush or what it is but it should not be touching the clutch drum
You will have to pull the clutch at least part way off the main shaft to get clearance to get everything back in place
But I would pull the inner primary and replace any bushings and seals clutch is usually on a reverse thread and the nut is held on with red Loctite so heat is required to melt the Loctite to allow removal of the nut compensator is a normal thread and also has red Loctite
My bikes are 5 or more years younger than yours so get hold of a manual to be sure you are doing things the correct way
Brian
You will have to pull the clutch at least part way off the main shaft to get clearance to get everything back in place
But I would pull the inner primary and replace any bushings and seals clutch is usually on a reverse thread and the nut is held on with red Loctite so heat is required to melt the Loctite to allow removal of the nut compensator is a normal thread and also has red Loctite
My bikes are 5 or more years younger than yours so get hold of a manual to be sure you are doing things the correct way
Brian
D
dbmg
Guest
My .02 cents. If bike was operating electrically fine before repair, I would be looking for some type of electrical problem like melted wires, fried relays etc. from jumping with jump box.
Something just does not seem right. Pulling side cover and doing some serious detective work may find the solution. Is repair shop helping or taking some responsibility for this problem?
Something just does not seem right. Pulling side cover and doing some serious detective work may find the solution. Is repair shop helping or taking some responsibility for this problem?
tourbox
Senior Member
Check your shifter shaft for cracks. That's the shaft that the solenoid actuates the Bendix(starter drive) to the clutch ring gear. Check the springs that attach it to the solenoid. If that's OK then it's time to pull the starter and it's housing. The nut on the end of the Jack shaft is left handed threads.
tourbox
tourbox
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
The starter drive in your picture here can get weak over time, it acts like an overrunning clutch, if you have not changed it or if it is the OEM I would look at a new Accel or https://www.denniskirk.com/spyke-inc/heavy-duty-starter-drive-clutch.p209054.prd/209054.sku
hey guys thanx for all the great comments. I really appreciate the help!
I have been plugging away at this as best I can with a 55 yr old surgically repaired(twice) back will allow.
so now I am attempting to remove the starter shaft assembly as it seems that something is keeping it from pulling all the way back off of the clutch ring gear. problem I am having is the Hex plug(size?) is directly under my left exhaust and if the pivot shaft is supposed to come up out of there, then that pipe will have to come off first? I am following the directions in the SM as best I can.
I response to some of your comments; NO, the shop that did the work is NOT assisting or taking any responsibility for the current problems...
Loctite, I have never seen so much Loctite in my life!! absolutely smeared with it, every bolt on the case/inspection and derby cover!
as you can see from my pic, I don't have the standard bolt head with the locking tab on the end of the starter shaft, like the newer models. my question is what should I be using to hold that shaft while I try to remove the LH thread nut?
thanks again for all the help....keep it coming?
Mac
I have been plugging away at this as best I can with a 55 yr old surgically repaired(twice) back will allow.
so now I am attempting to remove the starter shaft assembly as it seems that something is keeping it from pulling all the way back off of the clutch ring gear. problem I am having is the Hex plug(size?) is directly under my left exhaust and if the pivot shaft is supposed to come up out of there, then that pipe will have to come off first? I am following the directions in the SM as best I can.
I response to some of your comments; NO, the shop that did the work is NOT assisting or taking any responsibility for the current problems...
Loctite, I have never seen so much Loctite in my life!! absolutely smeared with it, every bolt on the case/inspection and derby cover!
as you can see from my pic, I don't have the standard bolt head with the locking tab on the end of the starter shaft, like the newer models. my question is what should I be using to hold that shaft while I try to remove the LH thread nut?
thanks again for all the help....keep it coming?
Mac
hey guys
update on progress. I have not bee able to get good access to the hex plug(1/4"?) as it is DIRECTLY under my LH exhaust. I have managed to get the rest of the starter drive out.
I am attaching a pic (not my bike) and I hope I can describe accurately what I believe is happening. I think that when the power is applied, the shifter arm is travelling up the pivot shaft(green arrow) engaging the pinion gear, but once it achieve the necessary rpms to start, the upper shifter arm fork(red arrow) is hitting the casing(blue arrow) preventing the shifter arm from completely disengaging the pinion gear from the clutch ring gear.
if this is correct, how can I correct the problem.
please advise
update on progress. I have not bee able to get good access to the hex plug(1/4"?) as it is DIRECTLY under my LH exhaust. I have managed to get the rest of the starter drive out.
I am attaching a pic (not my bike) and I hope I can describe accurately what I believe is happening. I think that when the power is applied, the shifter arm is travelling up the pivot shaft(green arrow) engaging the pinion gear, but once it achieve the necessary rpms to start, the upper shifter arm fork(red arrow) is hitting the casing(blue arrow) preventing the shifter arm from completely disengaging the pinion gear from the clutch ring gear.
if this is correct, how can I correct the problem.
please advise
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tourbox
Senior Member
That is possible. But looking at a pic you posted earlier of your unit in the bike it appears you have plenty of clearance. With the Battery grn. disconnected can you push the starter gear in to clear the ring gear? Feel for sloppy movement in that area. Look for cracked parts/broken springs etc.
tourbox
tourbox