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No Return Ticket – Just a Ride Report /w Pics

Cavebiker, Hedi,

I just found your thread today, WOW!!!, what a journey you are on, I am totally in awe, wish you 2 & your scoot all the luck in the world. This makes my plans to do R66 on a Harley and 2-3 weeks in the Himalaya on a Royal Enfield like a ride around the park. I really hope you guys publish this adventure, I'd be one of the first in the cue to buy it. Cavebiker your writing style is superb, you paint wonderful pictures in our heads and you have a great eye for a good photgraph, thanks. Would love to sit and listen to your stories one day over a bottle of wine.
Take care and be safe.
 
Cavebiker, Hedi,

I just found your thread today, WOW!!!, what a journey you are on, I am totally in awe, wish you 2 & your scoot all the luck in the world. This makes my plans to do R66 on a Harley and 2-3 weeks in the Himalaya on a Royal Enfield like a ride around the park. I really hope you guys publish this adventure, I'd be one of the first in the cue to buy it. Cavebiker your writing style is superb, you paint wonderful pictures in our heads and you have a great eye for a good photgraph, thanks. Would love to sit and listen to your stories one day over a bottle of wine.
Take care and be safe.

Hey Powerset. Thanks man. When we get back hopefully we can share that bottle of wine and do some rapping together.
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Our last day in Xela.

I say goodbye to my shoe (boot) shine buddies while enjoying another fabulous Guatemala breakfast, $3.50 including the best coffee ever (and wi-fi).

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Vilma enjoyed practicing English while I practiced Spanish. “Goo moreing Toom”, then I repeat “Good morning”. Vilma would repeat everything at least once or twice to make sure she got it right. Pollo Campero is Guatemalan owned and it’s one of the countries most successful companies. Heidi and I talked with an English teacher who works for Pollo Campero, he said the company has incentives and travel prizes for learning English. This restaurant is top notch and only 3 blocks from our hotel, can’t beat it.
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The road around the park was closed today for a craft market.
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To these food vendors setting up is an every night occurrence at the North East corner of Parque Centroamerica but it’s even bigger on Friday and Saturday nights. Heidi and I like to sample new things, this is a good place to do it.
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Heidi is waiting for her donut holes to cook.
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The activity in the park continued into the night.
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The later it got the wilder the entertainment. Guatemala rap, we thought it sounded pretty good and so did a dozen or more screaming girls in the front row, but no one else seemed to appreciate it much, not the music anyway.
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The crowds stuck around though.
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The next day we are on the road early. It took a little backtracking to get out of town but we found the right road and we made it.
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We started climbing up and up. The sky was sunny but we both started getting cold. I was warned by a tour guide I met in the hotel parking lot this morning about possible half hour traffic delays along the route we are taking. We soon hit a long line of stopped traffic. Some locals selling sandwiches car to car told us we can drive around the line of traffic and continue on. Nice, we rode around and in front of at least 4 long lines of traffic that day that were stopped by a road crew. When we approached the blockade at the front of the line, the road crew would move the barricade over, just enough for us to pass. We just rode on like we owned the road. But, we moved way over and off the road when we saw a Chicken bus barreling toward us, they are the true owners of the road here……In fact we saw one side sliding around a steep sandy corner, it was coming right at us.
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When I saw a chicken bus behind me I would do everything to pull over and let them pass. I would usually get a friendly beep when I did this. My father, without knowing, always taught me to respect people who are trying to make a living; truck drivers, sales people or whoever. These people are trying to feed their families, I’m just a guest here.
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Before we knew it we were in sight of Lago de Atitlan. This is Solola, a bigger city just before the tourist town, Panajachel.
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Lago de Atitlan…………….
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We should have grabbed a sandwich on the road from those kids selling them at the first road block. We were hungry. We find the lakeshore and pull into a friendly looking restaurant. Sweet….
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Guatemala coffee……..
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This is a big tourist area for Guatemaltecos but we also see a lot of Europeans walking around. I talked with some of the young boys who wait tables and solicit people off the streets and into their restaurants about who comes here and when is the busiest time of year. (All in Spanish I must add ‘Cheezy grin’) They told me that most people that come here are from Guatemala and Guatemala City. They said the busiest time is Samana Santa (Easter week) and Ano Neuvo (New Years). The waterfront has dozens of Restaurants and cafes but all are mostly empty at this time of year. A good time to visit, I couldn’t imagine what this place would be like if everything was filled.

We check out a couple hotels right across from the waterfront. The guide book recommended a few places that are more in town but we like being on the water. About a block away from the restaurant we found a cluster of about 5 small hotels, all budget priced. We pick one with great bike security, was super clean and had hot water. I negotiate for a 5 night stay, $21.00/night. Plus it has a roof top terrace 4 floors up, the highest point on the waterfront.

We get settled into our hotel. Heidi yells out “We have the Turner classic movie channel!” We both noticeably enjoy not having a TV in our room. We read and play cards with each other more and it just seems we are more in tune with what we are doing. But not having a TV makes us enjoy having one all the more also (does that make sense?)

Anyway, around 5:30 PM I get this sinking feeling that I’m missing out on something. I tell Heidi, grab the camera and tri-pod and race down to the water. Score………….
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The next morning I knew I had a mission. I have been dreaming about photographing places like I saw in National Geographic since I was small. In the sixth grade I bought a used photographic enlarger with the grass cutting and snow shoveling money I earned..Well, I’ve saved my whole adult life for moments like this. I head out before dawn and wait to see what happens.

This guy came paddling out of nowhere. He secures his canoe, walks up on shore with his arms around his chest saying “Muy frio” (It’s very cold) I yell back with some silly comment saying it’s not cold. He got it and had a laugh.
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He suited up in some warmer clothes and gets back in his canoe. This dude is focused.
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OK, I finally get the camera settings right…… :)

The guy in the canoe went from buoy to buoy about 300 meters out. I suspect he has some live traps set that he’s checking on.
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Well, not much of a sun rise but I enjoyed being down at the waterfront watching the day start. I hike the two blocks back to the hotel and grab my fishing rod. Right across the street from the hotel are some unused or rarely used boat piers. Sounds like a good place to start.

When I was packing up the camera stuff a guy pulls up on his bicycle with a sack and a spear gun. As I’m passing by him, we greet each other. I then wished him good luck (Buena Suerte!) He gave me a huge grin and a nod.
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When I return with my fishing tackle the guy with the spear gun was hard at it. It’s difficult to see but that’s him between the two docks on the right.
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I was out on the pier for at least 40 minutes fishing, this guy was underwater spear fishing the whole time.
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I can feel the crispness of the lake air hit my face. I smell burning fires off in the distance, it smells like incense to me. On a lake during a calm day you can hear everything so clearly. I can hear the spear fisherman sucking air through his snorkel, as if I was hearing my own breathing. You can tell by the sound of someone breathing when they are engaged in an intense aerobic competition, him against the fish. I’m watching local people unload from the water taxis with all their handmade stuff to sell to tourists while they jabber away. Down the shore a ways I can hear a husband and wife washing dishes and taking a bath. At one point I glanced over to see the woman without a top on facing me, just washing away. The whole scene looked as routine as if she was taking a drink of water. This is Guatemala………..
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My new friend finally emerges from the water. He looks at me jabbering away with a big grin. I pretty much understood what he was saying. (I didn’t catch any fish, Nothing! All that time) That Spanish language class we took in Xela has seemed to pay off already. I told him I didn’t catch anything either, I said “No tienen hambre” (The fish aren’t hungry) He agreed.
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He sat on the pier with me while he dried himself off. He said there are a lot of Black Bass down there. I asked if he’s coming back tomorrow (?Regreso manana por la manana?) He says “Si, siempre tengo hambre para pescado” (Yes, I’m always hungry for fish) I say “hasta manana!”. This guy is full of life and was enjoying talking with me.
Spear gun strapped to his bike………
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Well, again I came up with nothing to show for my efforts except a couple good shots and a new experience of how life is in Guatemala. I can live with that………
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The screw and bolt that holds the seat onto the Sportster came off. I need to Jerry-rig something to hold the seat on. There are 3-wheel motorcycle taxis everywhere. I ask a guy to take me to a hardware store. While cruising along I explained my problem and what I need. He then pulls over at a bicycle repair shop a couple blocks later and walks me over. I finally explain what I need (I will never again go out to buy something technical without knowing the exact words of the things I want) These guys are on it!
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The guys finally dump out a large bucket of screws, bolts, nuts and washers ----> Score!
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Heidi read in the guide book about a trail leading to the next two villages along the lake, a two hour hike. What a girl, we are on it.
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The trail disappeared after about 40 minutes. We passed several huge gated compounds with beautiful houses and yards along the trail before the trail dead ended at one of them. The guide book talks about this trail and local maps show this trail but I guess money talks, the huge gated estates won.

We backtracked a few K and headed to the road. The road is curvy and narrow with steep sides. It is a beautiful walk and we see big exotic plants, pretty flowers and fabulous vistas.
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We made it! It was a difficult hike but well worth it.
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After making our way down to the lake we were mobbed by cute little girls hard selling handmade items. Everything they had was so beautiful and so cheap but we had to just stop buying stuff, it’s just way to costly to ship home.

We stop at a nice little café right on the water to re-hydrate
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And of course I needed to de-hydrate (wink) a little more with some GREAT Guatemala espresso and heated milk. Heidi says that’s enough about the Guatemalan coffee.
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A taxi boat arrives at a dock. The girls race over to try to make a sale.
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An ice cream truck pulls up playing typical ice cream truck music. He makes a few quick sales from the people running the café.
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A young guy pulls in with his canoe. It looked like he was out fishing.
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The guy hauls out a large sack filled with something. The young girl who waited on us hurries out to him and buys some crabs he pulls out from his sack. Cool…..

Get a load of those canoes. The hull is a half log hollowed out with wood planks on the side and back. I need to rent one of those boats.
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Last day in Panajachel (Pana)

Friday morning in the city of Solola is the big market day and is considered one of the best markets around. Say no more, Heidi and I pay the 33 cents for the chicken bus ride to Solola.

We see someone squeezing fresh orange juice. We can’t pass that up…..
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The chicken bus was just over half full. It’s all up hill to Solola and steep with constant switchbacks. We couldn’t believe how the driver would just whip the steering wheel around those turns. I say “He’s going faster then we do on the bike!” Heidi says “Yeah, he’s a young kid and cranking American rap music” I say “For sure” “I wonder what the ride back down the hill will be like!”
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We made it. Heidi and I wait while people start unloading their stuff from the overheads. A women about 4 foot zero was trying to grab a large round bucket sitting over us. I attempted to move it more forward, closer to her but it wouldn’t budge. I said to myself ‘Holy crap!’ and jumped up to help her. I barely lift the thing over the rack and she grabs it and rests it on top of her head. It had to be at least 50 pounds. She thanks me and marches off the bus balancing the bucket on her head.

There is a lot of activity around the Solola market.
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The crowd looks impenetrable. Heidi finally finds an open path directly to the center square of the park. I’m thinking ‘maybe we don’t want to go to the center’ We’ve heard stories of the huge crowds and pick-pocketing here. I stay quiet.
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The central park square was crowded but manageable. I could feel our eyes bug way out as we walked up onto the square, dozens and dozens of traditionally dressed indigenous Guatemaltecos, all very distinct and proud looking. We look so ‘way different’ than everyone else here, but we’ve been in these kind of situations often enough. We cruise straight through acting as natural as possible to the other side and straight to the heart of the market (I wish I could have gotten a photo but we felt it would have showed disrespect here). Wow, this is not for the faint of heart. Getting pinned in with people pushing you from all corners, trying to move out of the way of woman carrying large buckets on their heads or some guy carrying a large sack of something on his back. This is not what we want.
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Stopping to look at something was a big deal. A woman was cutting up papaya and we wanted some but it was in the densest traffic area. We tried to stop but soon gave up, it was just too brutal.

Heidi did get a chance to look at some pretty earrings. She looked at several, the guy showed her several and I could tell she was ready to walk away. I bend over and ask the guy how much “cuanto” 65 cents. I immediately tell Heidi that the blue ones would look beautiful on her (big spender, wink). That brought back her interest, she walks away a happy girl with new 65 cents earrings.

Before we walked away an older guy at the counter warned Heidi to not put them in her pocket, instead carry them in a bag. He said there are robbers here, while motioning pick-pocketing.
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Yesterday while closing my tool bag the strap that holds it onto the bike broke. I see this guy with tons of small belts. I test one that looks like an exact replacement but stronger. NICE! $1.30 and I have a new tool bag strap.
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Ohh, this is where all the color in peoples cloths come from……
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Chickens, geese, turkeys and who knows what. This is how some of them ride on the bus.
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We feel battered and bruised! We made it out to the other side.
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Time to take a little walking tour around the village. We pass a small church with its doors open. I walk up front to the counter where some candles are burning. I do a ‘sign of the cross’ over my chest and deposit a couple coins in the donation box. On the way out Heidi was waiting at the door, we whisper a few words (I don’t know why we were whispering) and I look over and see this. I say to Heidi “These are chicken pews!” I’ve never heard of or read about ‘chicken pews’ but that’s what these have to be. They are loaded with chicken poop and feathers. I want to know more……….
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A lot of the people selling stuff in Guatemala have these balance scales made out of a stick, some rope and two equally sized buckets. I always thought a known sized weight must get placed in one bucket but here I saw grain in both buckets while a woman was measuring out a sale. ??
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Getting on a bus back to Pana is easy. Just go to the bus area and get on the one where the guy is yelling out “Pana!, Pana!”
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Wow, if you are into amusement park roller coasters, don’t miss the chicken bus ride from Solola to Panajachel. Ya know, when you are racing down a super steep run and you say to yourself “we can’t possibly make this turn!” but then you make it. The whole ride is like that.

The woman in the photo wasn’t standing for very long…….
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Of course when we get home I noticed that I got pick-pocketed, my reading glasses and case got snatched from my front thigh pocket. And I thought I was immune because of the precautions I take.
 
The next day we are on the road early shooting the long way around the lake to a small but popular village, San Pedro la Laguna. It was a beautiful ride with a lot of hills and sharp turns.
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I get a ‘double jab’ from Heidi. Yes, we do need to stop for a few pics.
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As we were approaching another small village on the lake we see a bunch of people bathing, washing cloths and we assume washing dishes also. We wonder if that’s a thermal spring they are centered around.
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The roads and villages are getting more primitive looking the farther we get. On the outside of one village we see a sign ‘S Pedro la Laguna 15’ The road turns to dirt. The photos do not do justice describing how steep and rugged the road is. Huge rocks, washouts, gullies, and super steep. We thought this road went around the big volcano not over it. At one point we think we were up at the top of the volcano.
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After one unreal climb spitting rocks out with our rear tire, turning left, right, left, right, left, right the whole time, we paused. We had to let this truck that was ahead of us gain some distance, I needed to go faster than him to keep balance and my R’s up so I wouldn’t have to clutch. Anyway, after one pause Heidi voiced her concern. After the next unreal ‘competition like hill climb’ we pause again. Now I voiced my concern, I said “If we get to another one like that we are turning around” No argument from Heidi.

When we were pausing earlier, this truck passed us. As they were passing they stopped and asked if we needed any help. How nice…..
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The road didn’t get any worse and I had no problem hammering up the remaining hills. We were glad to see pavement starting several miles before San Pedro la Laguna.

Guatemala coffee beans: Hard to see but that’s them on the left.
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We are seeing a lot of people on the road now carrying huge loads of wood and who knows what.
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San Pedro la Laguna:
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We stop at the center of town right in front of a sign that says ‘Espresso Cafe’ We order a couple and I walk up the hill and inquire about a hotel. I come back and this woman is asking Heidi if she needs a mechanic, Saying this guy will do anything, oil change or whatever, his name is Indie ?? Later, Indie came by asking me the same thing. I politely said “No, but thanks” giving him a smile. While walking away he turns and says “Are you sure you don’t need a mechanic? Your riding a Harley aren’t you” A nanosecond later I fire back “Your living in the past!”
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What a place. It’s like we were dropped out of a time capsule back in the 60’s. Hippies abound, young and old, drugs, sex and Rock and Roll is still the mantra, which only adds to the whole ambience. We talked with several people while hanging out here. One guy raised his eyebrows when we told him we rode clockwise around the lake. He said the cops don’t even go down that road. People seemed to enjoy checking out our Wisconsin license plate.
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Fresh banana bread, 65 cents. Can’t pass that up…… This is Manual.
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The hotel is just up the hill.
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--------------------------------------------
Hold on! Much more to come.......
 
San Pedro La Laguna is a party town to say the least. It’s not easy to walk around and not get asked to buy ganja. We are staying at a hotel right in the heart of the party area, just up from the Pana boat docks. Buses come in town and unload here and boat taxis come here from Panajachel to dock and unload people. There is always a half dozen or more dudes here just hanging around willing to be your helper and sell you whatever. It’s kind of a wild-west feeling with firecrackers blowing off all the time, day and night. Heidi and I like to setup a couple chairs in the evening above the street and watch it all happen; backpackers, hippies, helpers, dealers, peddlers and moto taxi drivers. It’s better then TV.

A few pics of our walk around San Pedro La Laguna: Did I say San Pedro La Laguna is a party town……
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Well of course they grow and process coffee right here in San Pedro La Laguna and it is unbelievably good and inexpensive.
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A shot of coffee beans growing.
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Walking around town we would often smell a strong sour order. We finally find out it’s the rotting shells of the coffee beans (a pile of the shells below)
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Whole coffee beans drying out in the sun.
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Often while riding through Guatemala we would see corn stalks taller then I have ever seen. Here is an example but we have seen much taller.
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At the waterfront there are several restaurants with deck seating overlooking the water. Heidi and I pick one that looks like it’s owned and run by locals. Nice view…..
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This young girl offers to sell us some handmade bracelets. We didn’t need any but after hearing her price we knew we had to buy, just to help out the young girl if nothing else. 13 cents…..
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A great Guatemalan meal for about 6 bucks for two plates.
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Boat docks and restaurants on the right.
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The next day while out walking we decided on a whim to take a boat taxi over to Panajachel (Pana) for lunch. The ride is $2.60 one way and takes about 20 minutes. We just walk down to the docks and say “Pana?” Someone points us to the next departing boat and we hop in.

The guy in this little canoe is fishing with just a bare line in his hands with a hook on the end and some bait.
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Lago de Atitlan: This is a high elevation lake surrounded by volcanoes and I remember reading that the lake is an ancient creator of a gigantic volcano. I think some theorize that the explosion that created this lake could have contributed to the distinction of the dinosaurs. I need to check this out further.......
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On our last morning in San Pedro La Laguna. We get up early and enjoy some of the best espresso coffee with steamed milk while watching the town come to life below…..
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We are shooting for Antigua today, a village just outside of Guatemala City where there is said to be a large Gringo population of Spanish students and drinkers. Our guide book suggests it would be a shame to miss it, plus it’s a good staging area for preparing to ride through Guatemala City early in the morning.

We are on the road early. People in San Pedro La Laguna warned us about the steep road heading out of town with impossible switch-backs and no guard rails, expressing the fact using animation and big eyes. I would always say “It’s paved isn’t it?” After a confirmation of pavement I would blow it off saying “That is nothing to what we experienced coming from the other direction on dirt”

Heading out of town toward the north end of the lake we pass through a few small villages. One village had a barricade on its main street, I just blow through it. Later the road just dead ends. While backtracking we thought we needed to turn left to get out of town. Luckily I stopped and asked a few guys where the road to Pana is. They pointed us to the right, down the road we were intersected at. There are no road signs here; you just need to feel your way around.

Now we started to climb, and climb and climb. ‘Switch-backs’ is not the word for what we were driving through. I was in first gear torque-ing around the turns and leaning as hard as I could to make the corner. I couldn’t go any slower because I needed to keep my RMP’s up to keep the bike moving and upright and I couldn’t go any faster because the corners were so sharp. If you are not an aggressive rider you would never make it up this road 2-up packed with gear. Heidi was a champ; I never knew she was behind me while I wrestled the bike around the super steep and tight banked turns. When we got to the top though we both confirmed we were glad it was over.

After Lago de Atitlan and back on the main road, CA-1, we continued to climb. Heidi gives me a solid jab, meaning an equipment change is needed. We pull over to add some warmer cloths.
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Back on the road I see this view. I had to pull over for a pic.
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After the photo we see these two little girls screaming and running for us.
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Young models. They asked for a quetzal for the photo, 13 cents. Deal!
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There is a ton of road construction in Guatemala on the route we chose. We soon come behind a line of stopped traffic at least a mile long. OK, we know what to do, just drive on the oncoming traffic lane around all the parked vehicles. We meet a few on-coming trucks and buses and usually had a spot to pull in between cars until they passed. Once, while in the oncoming lane we had no place to go while a chicken bus was bearing right for us. Get this, the chicken bus moves over and drives in the shoulder to allow us room to stay in his lane, how nice.

OK, we get to the front of the long line of stopped traffic. The construction crew moved the barricade over just enough for us to pass and continue on. After driving about 5 miles or more through the construction zone we come to another long line of stopped traffic traveling the opposite direction. There were a lot of impatient drivers in this line. The vehicles were 5 across taking up both lanes and ditches on both sides. I go way over into the ditch on our side and continue to make slow progress forward. We soon see a huge dump truck coming right for us in the ditch. I had to slip sideways between two trucks while the dump truck hammers past. Later this long bus (photo below) wants to get to the front of the line in a bad way. He was coming right at us and pins us in. Heidi, for the second time almost bails off the bike. I say “Stay on, he has nowhere to go!” The side of the bus was inches from us at that point. The bus did manage to get almost past the pickup truck in the center of this photo, just enough room for us to squeeze through with at least 2 inches to spare on each side. I didn’t move until I was sure the bus was pinned in from moving forward.
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We get moving again far into the ditch on our side when we see this huge pothole. I needed to get really aggressive and ride right at oncoming traffic to get around this hole. At least the traffic was only crawling.
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After the road construction we had the whole road practically all to ourselves. The scenery was mountainous and the villages have a kind of a touristy feel. We see this little restaurant and decide to stop for a bite.
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This place reminds us of Northern Wisconsin, cute.
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We have a super breakfast and the waiter was over the top polite and gracious.
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We pull into Antigua and ask someone where the Central Park is (?Parque Centro?) I sit down at a park bench and start looking at the guide book for hotels I previously marked that have parking. Heidi goes over to look for a street sign so we have a bearing point for the map in the guide book. Boot shine, OK....

I walk to the first hotel where the guide book says it has parking. Of course there is no parking at that hotel. I go to the second hotel I have marked in the guide book, it says it has a courtyard and I’m hoping we can maybe park our bike there. Of course this hotel has parking. I pay for two nights and while I was walking out I see a guy in a motorcycle adventure suit. Pete is on a V-Strom and is from Colorado. He is on his way to South America and is a very interesting guy. Heidi and I enjoyed several long talks with him.
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While walking around town we see Ruth and Rueben, a couple from a small island off of England, we met in Xela at our Spanish school. Ruth and Rueben did the volcano hike with us in Xela and mentioned that the volcano hike here is not to be missed. Say no more, we are on it.
 
We are up and waiting in front of our hotel at 6:00 AM for our volcano shuttle bus. The ride is close to an hour and a half before we reach the base village of the volcano. There we meet up with our guide and several kids on horseback willing to taxi anyone up the steep trail to the top of the volcano.
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There were about 8 of us in this group, all adventure travelers from different countries.
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Going up we see three different volcanoes that loom over Guatemala City.
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We walk over the crater and on to a lava field that is only 2 months old. We can see and feel the heat rise. This is weird......
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This is an active volcano! Smoke and lava is spewing out constantly. The sun was right in front of the volcano so it was difficult to get any good shots, but here are a few that give a little idea of what it was like to be here.
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I focus on the side. There are streams of red lava flowing all over.
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Heidi gets a better shot.
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There are huge boulders of lava being spit out all over and careening down the side of the cone, glowing red and smoking the whole way down. The one in the photo is about the size of a Volkswagen beetle.
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Everyone is oooohing and aaawing.
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Back from the hike we hear there is a parade starting at 4:00PM from the church. Everyone is waiting...
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Here we go.
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The parade is for the virgin Guadelupe.
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All the little kids were dressed up.
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We had fun in Antigua. We enjoy the last night at a 2 for 1 happy hour at a gringo watering hole, just a block away from our hotel, the Monoloco.
 
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