Your chart may work but it is risky. It is much better to measure Voltage Drop across a live circuit. This is a more reliable way to do it.
When the bike goes into failure mode this is what you need to do. If at ANY time the bike goes "back to normal", stop the testing procedure because this method will only work if the bike is in failure mode. Don't shake any cables looking to find the problem., we want it to stay in failure mode.
Bike is in failure mode. Turn Ignition switch ON. Headlight High beam switch to Hi beam. At this time switches are ON but instrument panel is DEAD and HI BEAM headlight is DEAD. Push Horn button once to assure "Deadness". Is bike Dead? If yes, proceed.
Step #1.. Take your voltmeter and measure the voltage from: The Positive Battery POST (not cable, The Post) to the MAXI fuse TEST point. Do Not remove the fuse. Just measure to the test point of the Maxi fuse. You should measure Zero to near zero volts. If you read voltage, you found your problem. If you read near Zero volts proceed to step #2
Step #2 Take your meter and measure the voltage from the Negative Battery POST (not cable but Post) to the Body of your Starter. Then from the Negative Battery post to the WIRES (crimp terminals) on the grounding Studs under the seat. Then from the Negative post of the battery to the STUDS under the seat. Then from Negative of battery to the Bars. Then from the Negative battery post to the engine Block. In ALL cases you should read Zero to Near Zero volts. If you read voltage, you found your problem. If you read Zero volts proceed to step #3
Step #3
The smaller fuses (15amp) also have test points on them. Do Not remove any fuses. There are two 15 amp fuses that we must test. These are the "Keep Alive" Fuses. One is called "BATTERY" and the other is called "ECM". Locate them. Take your volt meter and measure between the Positive Post of the Battery (The POST) and a Test point on each of those two smaller fuses.
You MUST read Zero to Near Zero volts on each fuse.
When I say Zero to "Near Zero" volts what I mean is this. The closer to Zero you are,,the better. Anything more than 1/4 volt is suspect. A 1/2 volt reading is poor. Greater than 1 volt and you found your problem.
If your battery is good, I just can not imagine you reading Zero to Near zero volts in all three steps and still have a DOA bike. If you do, you have more than 1 problem.
Report your results.