1984 FXRSDG shuts down
- Thread starter pnew122
- Start date
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
You can change the outer cover and put screws in if you like:s
Hoople
Account Removed
I read somewhere that is what's usually used to reassemble.
Hey Paul, I think the limit on posts for each problem is 80. You have just 1 left.
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J
Jack Klarich
Guest
That would be the special HD rivets again having to cut o r drill them again I would replace the cover with a new one of your choice with screws just in case, just my way:s
If this really is my last post. Good news and good news. Stopped @ a local Harley shop (Hops HD) to pick up my rivets. For some strange reason I "forgot" an old work friends son worked there. Told him the skinny, and he pretty much said exactly what everyone here said, so that was nice
He said once I pop the cover I "might" see a bunch of oil run out. Maybe the seal gone? Anywho, not the case. Dry as a bone. Didn't get a chance to hit it w/the heat gun, so will do tomorrow when I get home. Talked to him more about "what if" stuff.
He agreed if this is the problem (nose cone) that he to would replace the whole works w/state of the art, which also rids it of the ign mod. I can dig that. He made it sound simple. Add the unit, pop the plug, crank to top center on the front piston, lock her down, throw in the plug, and down the road.
He showed me a pic of a unit that looks almost identical to this one. Said it was pricey @ about 275.00. For me, to rid myself of breaking down and all this hassle never knowing if it will run, well worth the price. So lets "assume" this turns out to be the problem. Any reco on this unit? I still know if this isn't the problem, there is still the coil and ign mod test.
Thanks
Paul
Daytona Twin Tec LLC - Model 1005 Ignition for Harley-Davidson Motorcycles
He said once I pop the cover I "might" see a bunch of oil run out. Maybe the seal gone? Anywho, not the case. Dry as a bone. Didn't get a chance to hit it w/the heat gun, so will do tomorrow when I get home. Talked to him more about "what if" stuff.
He agreed if this is the problem (nose cone) that he to would replace the whole works w/state of the art, which also rids it of the ign mod. I can dig that. He made it sound simple. Add the unit, pop the plug, crank to top center on the front piston, lock her down, throw in the plug, and down the road.
He showed me a pic of a unit that looks almost identical to this one. Said it was pricey @ about 275.00. For me, to rid myself of breaking down and all this hassle never knowing if it will run, well worth the price. So lets "assume" this turns out to be the problem. Any reco on this unit? I still know if this isn't the problem, there is still the coil and ign mod test.
Thanks
Paul
Daytona Twin Tec LLC - Model 1005 Ignition for Harley-Davidson Motorcycles
Well Pnew122, glad you are exploring two solutions going back to breaaker points/condenser.cam switched coil current system or the Hall effect trigger system w/ switching module coil system which is patterned like the most modern ignition systems of today. Either way, you will have a more reliable system than the "optical shutter LED/Photosensor trigger with switch module coil system that was so problematic in the 70's and 80's. Sometimes bad ideas, even by MOCO and many manufacturers before, are still bad ideas...Optical ignition systems was one of those things that were not meant to be.
Homework complete. Started the bike cold but had to give a little choke until it idled on it's own. Even though, I hit the nose cone with the blower from the get go.
Left it on the nose cone for 5 min to the point it burned my fingers to toch the plate. Even though no one gave me a time period I assumed 5 min and blistering heat should have done something.
While still running, I moved to the coil for another 5 min. Again, to the point it burned my fingers to touch it. Nothing.
I finished w/the ignition module. 5 min there to and nothing. So as I sat there I thought about variance. The only variant othet than heat, was the eb and flow of giving gas and letting off the gas while driving down the road. So does this mean we are back to the carb and or gas aspect?
Was really hoping it would die on one of the components.
Paul
Left it on the nose cone for 5 min to the point it burned my fingers to toch the plate. Even though no one gave me a time period I assumed 5 min and blistering heat should have done something.
While still running, I moved to the coil for another 5 min. Again, to the point it burned my fingers to touch it. Nothing.
I finished w/the ignition module. 5 min there to and nothing. So as I sat there I thought about variance. The only variant othet than heat, was the eb and flow of giving gas and letting off the gas while driving down the road. So does this mean we are back to the carb and or gas aspect?
Was really hoping it would die on one of the components.
Paul
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Maybe it needs to have a load on the motor, ride it around the block til it dies or acts up and re start your testing, it could be as simple as a fuel problem, but I dont think so JMO
Hoople
Account Removed
So there was no failure on all three parts along with the mini light test showing you had power during a period of time when the bike was in failure mode. Ok.
Before I say to move on to something Other than ignition, perform 1 more ignition test.
Carry with you in your pocket an old (or new) spark plug that is gaped to .060". Ride the bike until it goes into failure mode. Immediately remove the front spark plug wire from the plug and clip it over your "carry along" spark plug. Place the plug up against the cylinder head and crank the engine in an attempt to start it. Do you see a spark jump across your .060" gaped plug?
You absolutely should see a nice healthy spark & repeat itself in step with the engine.
If you DO see a Nice thick spark, immediately put the spark plug wire on the engine plug and MAKE SURE the engine STILL FAILS to start.
By chance would you have a print or schematic of the electrical system on your bike? If so can you upload a copy. There are 2 questions that I have.
1) Is there an "ignition enable" wire coming off your ignition module that may be used for "tip over" or a security feature.
2) How is "engine Kill" performed on your bike. Does it pull down the ignition module through a wire (enable wire) to the ignition module or does it break B+ going to the ignition module or coil.
I can't walk away just yet that your problem is other than ignition. It could be something other than ignition but to be 100% sure I need to see a schematic of your bike. The spark plug test will help a bunch.
Before I say to move on to something Other than ignition, perform 1 more ignition test.
Carry with you in your pocket an old (or new) spark plug that is gaped to .060". Ride the bike until it goes into failure mode. Immediately remove the front spark plug wire from the plug and clip it over your "carry along" spark plug. Place the plug up against the cylinder head and crank the engine in an attempt to start it. Do you see a spark jump across your .060" gaped plug?
You absolutely should see a nice healthy spark & repeat itself in step with the engine.
If you DO see a Nice thick spark, immediately put the spark plug wire on the engine plug and MAKE SURE the engine STILL FAILS to start.
By chance would you have a print or schematic of the electrical system on your bike? If so can you upload a copy. There are 2 questions that I have.
1) Is there an "ignition enable" wire coming off your ignition module that may be used for "tip over" or a security feature.
2) How is "engine Kill" performed on your bike. Does it pull down the ignition module through a wire (enable wire) to the ignition module or does it break B+ going to the ignition module or coil.
I can't walk away just yet that your problem is other than ignition. It could be something other than ignition but to be 100% sure I need to see a schematic of your bike. The spark plug test will help a bunch.
J
Jack Klarich
Guest
Agree it is ignition related, no security or bank or tip shut off in the old days that I ever saw