1984 FXRSDG shuts down

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by pnew122, Jun 1, 2010.

  1. pnew122

    pnew122 Member

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    Bought my bike brand new in 1984. Has had electrical problems over the years. New alt 2000, new stator & twin power reg 2007. New gas cap thinking air lock, nothing. Typically I'l get a few miles down the road, and it just dies. Feels like no gas elec, etc. Sometimes I sit for a few min and it fires back up. Last time it killed the battery, and 3 jumps later it finall started after about an hour.

    Got it home and plugs were fouled big time. New plugs, few weeks later down the road about 2 mi, and dies again. For some reason it got me thinking about the headlight. I recall every time, if not almost every time, I had my headlight on. Run the bike without the light, and it seems fine.

    Took apart the headlight, looked inside, checked connections, and all seemed dry and correct. Tried tracing a few wires, and saw nothing out of the ordinary. It ran perfect since 07 with the new parts, and now it's like starting all over again. Any ideas?

    Thanks
    Paul
     

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  2. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    Check over the charging system and see what's going on there.

    Also suspect the gas cap vent not working. Will it run after cracking open the cap after it dies?
     
  3. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Feels like no gas and electric would mean it will not crank.

    When it won't start, will it crank at a good cranking speed. That would tell you if the battery was run down. I would carry an extra spark plug in my pocket. When it fails to start (but cranks), I would take the plug and clip it to a plug wire and hold it against the cylinder just to make sure I had spark. You have to eliminate 1 system at a time.
     
  4. pnew122

    pnew122 Member

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    Yeah, that's why I replaced the cap. Many times when I loosened the cap, a great deal of pressure came out. Can't say it made a diff as to it stalling. The new cap made no diff.

    As for cranking, it turns over fine. Little bit of coughing. I now carry 2 plugs just in case, but am leary of taking a trip w/the wife. She has high BP and I don't need a breakdown in the heat. I'll try the spark plug deal but don't think it's that since it starts fresh every time, and I have the 2 new plugs in.
     
  5. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Your missing what the test is for. It is not to see if the plugs are good or bad. Your checking for spark energy coming out of the coil. Your testing to see if it's a thermal intermittent in the ignition system as a whole.
     
  6. pnew122

    pnew122 Member

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    Gotcha. Will do. Thanks

    Update,
    I know it's been a while, but was finally able to get the bike back in the shop. Mechanic took it for a few spins and nothing. He then took it for a longer ride and bam. Bike backfired, coughed, choked, and stalled. He smelled gas (which I did 2 but hard to tel if it was from starting it) and when he got it back, figured he would check/clean the carb.

    When he reached for a hose, he felt gas. When he wiped it off, it came right back. He seems to think/know there is some sort of plastic piece at this hose and when it leaks, it is also sucking air in which causes all this havoc. Once he gets the plastic piece, he will take it for another spin. Sound logical?

    More dead ends. Took the bike for a spin, ran for 15-20 mi, slight chug. Left Fredrock and no sooner got out of town, backfired pretty bad, totally lost everything for about the usual 3-5 seconds, then it came back up.

    Bought a new gas line @ HD of Fredrock where I bought it, and installed it. Talking to the guy @ the counter, he said might be exaust leak. Bought gaskets while I was there (for stock) but he had to order. Went to put them on tonight, and the straight pipes are not a mesh for the gasket.

    Took the back pipe completely off before I noticed it. While off it "appears" the pipe has a pretty snug fit, but NO actual gasket. I also noticed I didn't have to put much elbow into getting the nuts off. Not snug @ all, but not loose either. Will take another spin this weekend but still have my doubts.

    Being 26 years old, I'm still wondering about whether the carb needs cleaning or adjusting? Is the timimg off? Is there a short? Just 2 many things it could be.

    All ears.....Paul
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 13, 2010
  7. 2000classic

    2000classic Active Member

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    I would clean the carb. I have a 2001 king and had similar symptoms. Float in the carb would sometimes stick and cause it to flood out. When it would act up, I would reach down and turn OFF the gas until it wanted to die from lack of fuel, then back on again. That got me home!
     
  8. mrjimchil

    mrjimchil New Member

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    May want to look at the liner in the tank, on my 95 FLHTC the liner stated coming loose and would block the flow of gas. I would add gas or just wait and it would run fine for a time. When I removed tank over half the liner was flaking off. I am in the process of getting a new tank painted.
     
  9. pnew122

    pnew122 Member

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    I will show my ignorance. I have the manual, I removed the air cleaner & replaced the fuel line. How bigga deal is it to remove the carb and clean? I'm game for anything but don't want to get in over my head. I'm very good in general with doing any kind of work including mechanics, but have never done a carb removal or cleaning.

    Thanks
    paul

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    I also replaced the fuel filter in the tank recently. Wouldn't is seem likely if the liner was going, it would have had pieces stuck in the filter I took out? It was perfectly clean "to the eye".
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 9, 2010
  10. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    From what you have described so far, I don't think it is fuel related at all. Loosing EVERYTHING for 3-5 seconds and backfiring is an electrical issue to me. Sure sounds like either the main B+ supply rail (ignition switch, main breaker) or the ignition module/and or ignition trigger is the problem to me.

    Your going to have to perform some simple tests. Start with Glider's mini bulb light test. A simple but clever test that will "take off the table" 50% of the possible things your problem can be. Run a small test light RIGHT TO the B+ input of the ignition module. Ride the bike and see if the light goes out when the bike quits for those 3-5 seconds.

    Perform that test and you will have a solid foundation to fixing this problem.
    Once you establish supply power to the ignition module during bike failure, that will only leave you with a few possibilities.

    Don't run out and buy an ignition switch,main breaker or ignition module. That is not what I am suggesting. I want to perform some tests to eliminate some possibilities first. Only then do I want you to pull out the dough!:p