Ironmark, my first thought when you said the wiring was pinched and started to give you codes that pointed to the TPS...so it stands to reason that when they shorted the wires, a high DC current probably shorted and "burned" the wire wound rheostat (essentially a wire wound resistance wire contacting a wiper at various points) with a resistance taper (characteristic) that matches the throttle position) so that that burnt area when contacted probably looks "Open" giving you the code, and once it is detected, the HD software does not do multiple-error correcting reads so it just kicks out the code and your in limp mode.
Since throttle openings are input at constantly variable rates, possibly if there is enough movement to get past that burned spot is like hearing the correct volume setting beyond the crackling sound you heard from old table radio volume controls of an intermittant wiper contact. I doubt HD processor software is sophisticated enough to correct for that, and doubt you would gain anything by " -just replacing the harness". Use some shrink tubing if you can slip the conductor/connector out to slip some over the cut insulation or electrical tape and glue the ends with sealer. Unfortunately, if you "arc" or burn a section of the rheostat it will only get worse. I have seen some self-destruct, the wires unwinding and shorting to parts and actually catch on fire...as sometimes they do not use ceramic insulator, but fiberglass, or bakelite which can carbonize and aggravate the problem even more.
Since throttle openings are input at constantly variable rates, possibly if there is enough movement to get past that burned spot is like hearing the correct volume setting beyond the crackling sound you heard from old table radio volume controls of an intermittant wiper contact. I doubt HD processor software is sophisticated enough to correct for that, and doubt you would gain anything by " -just replacing the harness". Use some shrink tubing if you can slip the conductor/connector out to slip some over the cut insulation or electrical tape and glue the ends with sealer. Unfortunately, if you "arc" or burn a section of the rheostat it will only get worse. I have seen some self-destruct, the wires unwinding and shorting to parts and actually catch on fire...as sometimes they do not use ceramic insulator, but fiberglass, or bakelite which can carbonize and aggravate the problem even more.
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