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Removing glass from mirror

btsom

Active Member
Anyone ever take the glass out of a stock Road King mirror and then re-install it? If so, what works? One of my mirrors is getting a bit loose on the pivot ball. Some mirrors have a spring plate held against the pivot with screws and tightening the screws makes the mirror stay in position better. Presuming this mirror has those screws, I'd tighten them if I can get the glass out and then reinstall it after the adjustment.
 
I've never heard of anyone removing the mirror from the holder, and the ones that you can tighten the pivot ball usually have the screws on the outside of the holder and on the back.
 
I've never heard of anyone removing the mirror from the holder, and the ones that you can tighten the pivot ball usually have the screws on the outside of the holder and on the back.

+1, never heard of the glass coming out, not on purpose or in one piece anyways. I have retightened mine on both bikes, but that was more to hold the frame solid to the mounts, not the glass to the frame.
 
I really don't know, but my guess is the glass is held in by some kind of adhesive so probably a heat gun might soften in enough to remove the glass. Of course then you would need new adhesive to re-stick it.
 
I did it recently; I had one mirror with good glass and pitted chrome, and another with no glass and good chrome.

I verrrry carefully, and very slowly, pried up the glass on the pitted mirror, letting the adhesive stretch out and finally give. The mirror was glued on all four sides.

Gluing it into the other frame was actually the harder part, as it either didn't want to stick, or was unevenly settling, causing the glass to be sticking up on one side. I finally got it on with Gorilla glue. Gorilla glue is good because it expands as it dries, giving more contact with the glass. So far, no problems, and it looks like it came that way. Gorilla glue is also waterproof.
 
I think i tried to remove the glass one time as the mirror was wobbling about in the wind glass broke, new mirror, sorted
But there is a lot of glue behind the glass heat gun may soften it up a wee bit

Brian
 
ProF, thanks much, did you notice if there were/was screws or a screw which would increase tension on the pivot ball? No sense in trying this if it is riveted together.
 
Decided to give the heat gun a try, and was successful. The glass is held in by sticky stuff (probably heat activated glue) at three points, each about the size of a thumb print. Inside the case, there is a spring steel socket held in place by three rivets. On mine, the head had popped off one of the rivets relieving most of the spring tension to hold the mirror in place. I tried drilling out the rivet and was able to install a number 2 machine screw and a washer to pull the leg of the spring steel piece back into proper position. I am using silicone caulking/adhesive to remount the glass. If this works, will have saved around $40 for a new mirror. In the pictures of replacement mirrors, most have screw heads on the outside so the tightness of the ball and socket can be adjusted by the user.
 
Glad the heat gun worked. Mine were older mirrors which had the tension screws adjustable from the outside. I guess someone figured that if they stopped making them adjustable, they could sell more mirrors sooner.

But what do I know? I'm just an old cynic.
 
Decided to give the heat gun a try, and was successful. The glass is held in by sticky stuff (probably heat activated glue) at three points, each about the size of a thumb print. Inside the case, there is a spring steel socket held in place by three rivets. On mine, the head had popped off one of the rivets relieving most of the spring tension to hold the mirror in place.

I have an 08' FLSTC with the same mirror problem. Unfortunately I spent the $40.00 and bought a new one. But I saved the old one and I'm willing to try to fix it just for the purpose of proving that I can fix it.

What part of the mirror did you heat with the heat gun to release the glue; the chrome back or the glass directly?

FYI, a wise man told me I should have tried using a thread lock compound on the ball and socket to "lock" it in position.
 
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