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Possible grounding problem????

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Griffco

New Member
I have a95 FLT Ultra Classic that has been a project bike for two years. I have had a problem with the charging system and finally found out whoever put the last stator in tore the boot that goes through the engine housing. Dead short for who knows how long. Replaced the stator and regulator and it is now charging, but not sure if I have a ground problem because it does not show over about 12.2 on gauge even though voltmeter shows charging at battery at 14 volts. Lights are dim and if it is at idle voltage on gauge drops to about 10 vollts. Unless rpms are kept high to keep voltage up turn signal won't work horn won't work. Not sure where to check for proper grounds to see if this is the problem. Thanks in advanced for any help.....
 
Have you checked the voltage regulator? Lights dimming indicates heavy load, weak battery or charging issues. Is the battery good? Is it new, or have you load tested it?
 
Hi SledDog, I piut in new stator, new regulator and new battery all at the same time. Just checked voltage at the main breakern and it is at 14 volts. Try jumpering new grounds around different parts of the bike but no change. Replaced main circ hit breaker on the chance it was cutting out. Still won't show over about 12.2 on gauge and if I turn on turn signals volt gauge needle rocks back and forth from 12.2 down to about 9 volts. Was looking at diagram but cannot find any but ground number 1 post. Does not say where it is located though. Driving me nuts at this point .

Sorry I forgot new battery load tested and show really good.
 
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Have you checked the battery ground? There are various grounds on the bike, but they are all referenced to the negative battery cable. Check to make sure you have good contact from the negative battery cable to the bike. Ohm check from the negative battery terminal or cable stud to other areas on the bike. How are you measuring the voltage at the main breaker? Are you going to the negative side the battery for reference? When you measuring voltage during turn signal operation are you measuring at the main breaker or the battery? Do you have an extra equipment on the bike, lights and so on?

When the bike is running without the turn signals on, what is the voltage at the battery measured between the + and - posts? Also, when you are testing voltage with the turn signals on, is the bike idling? Have you checked the voltage, turn signals on, with the bike at high idle? Is the voltage higher? Make sure the voltage regulator is grounded. I tend to run voltage regulator ground wire back to the battery negative cable stud. This way I know they have the same reference.
 

Step by Step Instructions for Testing Your Harley’s Charging System

1. Battery Test:The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).

  • AC Output Check:
  1. Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
  2. Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
  3. Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
  4. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
  5. Generic Specs:
  • 22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  • 32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  • 45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
  • Stator Resistance Check:
  1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
  2. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
  3. Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
  4. Generic Specs:
  • 22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
  • 32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
  • 45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
  • Stator IB test or Ground Check:
  1. Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
  2. Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.
  3. There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
  4. If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.

  • Identifying Wires:
  1. Battery Charge Lead– Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
  2. AC output leads– Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
  3. Ground– Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
  • Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
  • Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
  1. Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
  2. Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
  3. Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
  4. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
  5. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
  6. The reading should be Infinite.
  7. With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
  8. The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
  9. Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
  10. The reading should be Infinite.
  11. Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ∞
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ∞
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ∞
AC output 2 Ground ∞
Replacement Components
Batteries
350-430 (97-09 FLT, FLH, FLHT Dressers)
350-431 (82-94 FXR, 84-90 Softail, 71-86 FX, 79-96 XL)
350-432 (91-09 Softail, 97-09 Dyna, 97-03 XL)
350-433 (80-96 FLT, FLHT, 93-96 FLHR)

Stators:
380-864 (L84-90 XL)
240-556 (91-06 XL)
381-259 (70-75 Big Twin 15 Amp)
381-084 (76-80 Big Twin17.8 Amp)
381-260 (81-88 Big Twin 22Amp)
381-202 (89-99 Big Twin 32 Amp)
381-596 (00 Softail, 99-03 Dyna)
381-594 (99-01 Touring)
381-595 (02-05 Touring)

Regulators: (Offered in Chrome and Black, Black Part numbers listed below)

380-798 (84-85 XL)
381-177 (86-90 XL)
381-014 (91 XL)
380-797 (92-93 XL)
380-485 (94-03 XL)
381-835 (04-06 XL)
383-089 (07 XL)
381-252 (70-75 Big Twin)
381-328 (76-80 Big Twin)
381-327 (81-88 Big Twin)
381-277 (89-99 Big Twin)
381-605 (00 Softail)
381-603 (97-01 Touring)
381-606 (00-03 Dyna)
Rotors:
380-373 (70-06 Big Twin 18, 22, 32 Amp Systems)
380-374 (95-06 Big Twin 38 Amp Systems)
380-375 (97-05 Big Twin 45/48 Amp Systems)
383-640 (84-90 XL)
383-641 (91-03 XL)
383-642 (04-09 XL) Look here first you have a charging issue more than likely a bad regulator
You can check for a ground with a test light, hook up positive to battery, any thing you touch with probe end of test light that has a ground will light the tester, keep in mind regulators lose their ground thru the mount to the frame USE new star washers and scrape the frame to bare metal and coat it with dilectric grease,

Removed dead links. - SledDog
 
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II only ask as I have a similar issue with my 89 flt. I have volt drop tested both grounds and power connections. Battery is a new HD and has been tested with my midtronics. Stator output is correct and regulator output is over 14 volts. Next stop for me is the connector in the fairing to chassis wiring. Will post if problem is found.
 
Griffco said:
I have a95 FLT Ultra Classic that has been a project bike for two years. I have had a problem with the charging system and finally found out whoever put the last stator in tore the boot that goes through the engine housing. Dead short for who knows how long. Replaced the stator and regulator and it is now charging, but not sure if I have a ground problem because it does not show over about 12.2 on gauge even though voltmeter shows charging at battery at 14 volts. Lights are dim and if it is at idle voltage on gauge drops to about 10 vollts. Unless rpms are kept high to keep voltage up turn signal won't work horn won't work. Not sure where to check for proper grounds to see if this is the problem. Thanks in advanced for any help.....
Click to expand...
A new battery is only about 60% charged when new . If you have been playing around with it the charge has dropped. Fully trickle charge a new battery or it might get a memory and not ever charge to its full potential.

F.K.
 
Fisherking said:
A new battery is only about 60% charged when new . If you have been playing around with it the charge has dropped. Fully trickle charge a new battery or it might get a memory and not ever charge to its full potential.

F.K.
Click to expand...
Never trust a NEW battery off the shelf til you charge it over night, We had several NEW batteries in 08 that were dead as a hammer off the truck, never did come back to life
 
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