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need help

Re: still need help

Sounds like a dead short or you have a bad battery. put a volt meter on the battery and hit the starter see what it reads. I had a battery go bad (Just because its new don't mean its good) It would show 13.5 volts with no load, hit the starter and it went to almost 8 volts. Let it set and ir would show 13 volts again. I have been wrong before and might be again but something to check.
 
tdj45

Please continue in the same thread with the same problem instead of starting a new thread for the same problem.

It causes a lot of confusion and all the facts are split up in different threads.

The two threads have been merged here.

Thanks
 
Re: still need help

tdj45 said:
ohm wire fro starter to maxi fuse and fro maxi fues to switch. also from switch to ecm. everything good.

ecm starts rapidly clicking and at same time power slowly comes back on.
Click to expand...

There is nothing I know of within an ECM that would make the sound of "clicking". You need to 1st identify what and where this clicking sound is coming from. It most likely is the system relay but you need to verify if that is true. That would be the only item I could think of that would click while power is restoring to normal. But check it out just to make sure because I am going by my 2009. (Who know what HD did in 2006 :))

Reading the resistance of a wire really tells you very little about it's ability to carry any real current (amps).
Rather than using an ohm meter on those all important wires, I would check the voltage drop across them.

So first identify the source of the "clicking sound". If it is the system relay, start by reading the voltage drop between the positive battery post and the fuse labeled ECM. (there are small tap holes in the fuses for this purpose)

Chances are good the voltage drop across that wire is excessive. If it is not above 1/4 volt, check the voltage drop between the negative post of the battery and the engine block (also stud grounds under seat) during a failed condition (with power on). It also should be no greater than 1/4 volt.

My guess is, it's one or the other.
 
Re: still need help

Had the same problem on my road glide 2000, no one could figure it out , finally stumbled on to the relay for the fuel pump wasnt working so swapped another relay with it and it worked so I just put 2 new relays in and havnt had the problem again, I think Harley had some problems with some of the older relays.
 
found that the clicking is coming trom the fuel pump relay and checking the volts at the battery is 13..7 and then hitting the start button the volts went to 3.8
 
tdj45 said:
found that the clicking is coming trom the fuel pump relay and checking the volts at the battery is 13..7 and then hitting the start button the volts went to 3.8
Click to expand...

Are you saying you read 13.70 volts across the battery terminals with the engine off and the battery NOT on a charger?

If you do, I would say the battery is toast.

BTW,,, not sure if the Touring models are the same but on my Dyna, the "fuel pump relay" is the system relay, so everything up to this point does now make sense. Your almost at the solution to your problem. Your next step is to determine if the battery is toast via a battery load test. I know you said that the battery is only 4 months old, but it still could be bad. Have it load tested to eliminate that part of the puzzle.

If this 4 month old battery turns out to be bad, I want to know the name of it!:)
 
There is a chance that the last part of the earth circuit is letting you down.

Big Twin Starter Fastners - Harley Davidson Community

To try and eliminate this,you could maybe use a jump lead between the battery earth terminal and the starter body.
If you do replace the battery,even though you may be told it's charged up,put it on a trickle charger for 24 hours before fitting.It will make a world of difference to the life of the battery.
 
tdj45 said:
ok glider and guys. just put a new battery in the bike and same thing. next bypassed switch same thing but did notice after hitting the start button and getting one click to the starter the ECM starts clicking rapidly for about 30-seconds then stops and then you here the fuel pump engauge. truely stumped
Click to expand...

I think Limey Dave may be on to something with the trickle charger...
The above quote and Hooples last response has me confused.
Is this correct TDJ45:
1.) Orignal battery (only 4 months old) and "clicking issue" develops.
2.) Put in brand new battery and still have "clicking issue" and this new battery has this issue:"found that the clicking is coming trom the fuel pump relay and checking the volts at the battery is 13..7 and then hitting the start button the volts went to 3.8".

Hoople is an electrical guru from my comings and goings on this site. I am just trying to learn from this thread, so what I am suggesting below may seem way too obvious, but I think back to some obvious (now!) things I missed right in front of me.... I just replaced batteries in some ATV's and they stated that before you used them they should be fully charged. Maybe your 4 month old battery went bad and now the new one just needs to be charged, but you are getting the same result from each?

One thing I will bet on: The folks on this site will only give up when you do! This will get fixed and you and the rest of us will be a little more experienced when it does!
 
What bugs me about the whole thing is the 13.7 volts he measures across the battery. Unless the battery is hooked up to a battery charger or the bike is running, the only way he could have that much voltage across the battery is if:

1) One of the 6 battery cells has a broken internal plate connector which now makes it look like 2 cells instead of 1, thereby adding a good 1.5 volts to the overall battery voltage..

2) His voltmeter has a problem and it's way out of calibration.

3) He just took the battery off of a constant current battery charger and it's out gassing like crazy.

My 1st guess would be a damaged battery cell because I would hate to think it's on a constant current battery charger but it could be. In the past, I have also changed out perfectly good parts because of believing in what a bad multimeter was telling me, so a bad meter does sound like a possibility to me also.

Who knows, need more info but he is getting close to the end so we will know soon enough.
 
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