Horn/Electrical Problem

[Hoople]

Does this mean that the clips should only be connected to "positive?" When I attempted to attach the afore mentioned red clip to the front terminal of the horn, it honked as soon as the clip touched the terminal. Tried touching the red clip to the rear terminal and got a shower of sparks! What's happening here?

Alright all kidding aside,,.to answer those questions with an easy to understand explanation, I would have to see the instructions that came with the test light. There are so many different types of "test lights" available. Some have solid state electronics in them that indicate the level of voltage and some don't. Some are just "pass through" bulbs, some are not.

What is the brand and model of test light you have. I may be able to download the instructions for it and give you a crash course on what is going on, how to use them and how YOUR particular model works.

 

[glider]

Exactly what I thought - simple little fellow, right? Then why is it making my horn sound or creating a shower of sparks, depending on which horn terminal gets touched by the tester's clip? It's not polarity dependent and it's not a powered device, right? How is this happening?

I seriously need someone to have pity on me and just list a series of steps I need to follow, either with the test light or the meter Hoople mentioned. Real plain vanilla stuff please!

Doc

The shower of sparks was no doubt caused by the draw for the part being tested, in this case the horn. Simple way of describing it is use a ground source and clip the test lead to that when testing for power and use a power source like the battery POS when testing for ground with the test light probe.The test light can be used in a few ways and not just for testing for power. If the part you are testing is in an active circuit that will operate when power is applied, you may get some sparks when the test probe contacts it because the probe is a source of power for that device.

 

[Dr. Dolittle]

If it is internally shorted it could have blown the protective fuse or smoke open the wiring, relay contact or button in the bars that has power.

But then the horn wouldn't work at all, right?

Alright all kidding aside,,.to answer those questions with an easy to understand explanation, I would have to see the instructions that came with the test light. There are so many different types of "test lights" available. Some have solid state electronics in them that indicate the level of voltage and some don't. Some are just "pass through" bulbs, some are not.

To me it appears to be the simple, pass thru bulb type.

Doc

The shower of sparks was no doubt caused by the draw for the part being tested, in this case the horn. Simple way of describing it is use a ground source and clip the test lead to that when testing for power and use a power source like the battery POS when testing for ground with the test light probe.The test light can be used in a few ways and not just for testing for power. If the part you are testing is in an active circuit that will operate when power is applied, you may get some sparks when the test probe contacts it because the probe is a source of power for that device.

Thanks - it's SLOWLY starting to make a bit of sense to me.

 

[Hoople]

To me it appears to be the simple, pass thru bulb type.

Doc, so your saying it has no make, model number or manual? I am not trying to give you a hard time by asking for that info. I am trying to help and teach you some tricks of the trade.

 

[Dr. Dolittle]

Hey everyone - I'm in the midst of a busy flying period so I'm behind in responding to this.

Sometime Tuesday I will try to post pictures of the tester and meter I currently have as well as a close up of the Rivco horn setup. I am determined to let you guys walk me through this and not waste my time and money going to the dealer for something that is probably pretty simple.

 

[Dr. Dolittle]

OK, let's see if I can get some photos to work.

This is the basic tester light I've got:

Here's a couple shots of the meter I found in my tool box:

And here's a view of the Rivco horn mounted down by the front shifter peg:

Sooo...should I start poking around with my pathetic electrical knowledge or leave the light and meter on the table and start by tracing the wires and checking fuses and relays?

 

[Jack Klarich]

OK, let's see if I can get some photos to work.

This is the basic tester light I've got:

Here's a couple shots of the meter I found in my tool box:

And here's a view of the Rivco horn mounted down by the front shifter peg:

Sooo...should I start poking around with my pathetic electrical knowledge or leave the light and meter on the table and start by tracing the wires and checking fuses and relays?

Un plug the horn, run the test light alligator clip on battery, probe end to horn lug where the wire goes on, does the horn sound and test light light up, if the answer is yes the horn is not the problem.

 

[sprinklerfitter669]

Doc,
Did you try to take the horn off, or leave it in place and jump it?
i would start there, maybe even take an old battery if you have and run wires to it, before you get to involved with trying to trace the wiring

 

[Hoople]

1. The tester light has alligator clips covered by a red, flexible piece of plastic. Does this mean that the clips should only be connected to "positive?" Connected the clips to battery positive and the probe to battery negative and the light came on. Didn't have the guts to try it the other way.

This is where you had me wondering. You said alligator clips as in plural and I thought you had some kind of "logic state" probe that was able to read logic Hi & Low's. They use a pair of battery leads. A picture is worth a thousand words.

By the way Doc, the "piece of flexible red plastic" is called a Boot. Your too funny!

 

[Jack Klarich]

Doc,
Did you try to take the horn off, or leave it in place and jump it?
i would start there, maybe even take an old battery if you have and run wires to it, before you get to involved with trying to trace the wiring

Thats a very good idea, you could even use a battery charger, ground on the body of the horn, positive to the connection where the wire goes on, the horn should sound, This would be a safe way of testing the horn so as not to short any wires on the bike, good call Jim:s