Once you have checked your alignment and made sure the fall away is correct. And that you have checked all the things on the list you might want to look into something like this:The Original True-Track
FXDX wobbles when decelerating
- Thread starter railway red
- Start date
railway red
Member
tires were done at a local, considered a top guy, garage. so I trust him for putting them on the right way.
they're Metzelers and are the proper size!
the first time I noticed the wobble I thought I had a flat rear tire, that's kinda what it feels like.
they're Metzelers and are the proper size!
the first time I noticed the wobble I thought I had a flat rear tire, that's kinda what it feels like.
D
dbmg
Guest
Have you checked to make sure tire are going in the correct direction. Arrows facing forward....
I would definitely check the front head bearings for the proper preload with what you said about the bottoming out. It could actually be caused by the front bearing preload that is too loose. What sort of noise does it make when you apply just the front brake a bit hard without over doing it. If you get a clunk, then you found the problem
railway red
Member
will take the bike for a short spin tomorrow morning. will keep you guys up to date!!
Have you checked with metzelers web site for their recommended pressure for the tyres that are fitted as I believe that metzeler tyres need higher pressures than the stock tyre
I hope you are aware that as the engine gearbox and swing arm are rubber mounted as a unit within the frame and there is the possibility that it can get out of alignment and can be adjusted by an adjuster that is located between the cylinder heads and allows the engine gearbox and swing arm to be tilted to left or right
A good service manual and the correct tools are your friend here
Brian
I hope you are aware that as the engine gearbox and swing arm are rubber mounted as a unit within the frame and there is the possibility that it can get out of alignment and can be adjusted by an adjuster that is located between the cylinder heads and allows the engine gearbox and swing arm to be tilted to left or right
A good service manual and the correct tools are your friend here
Brian
railway red
Member
@fin 676: I've found that the pressure (on a HD forum) that the correct tire pressure is roughly stated, 30psi front and 40psi rear. and...
"You will find the correct pressure in the operating manual of the motorcycle. Use METZELER’s information only as reference."
"You will find the correct pressure in the operating manual of the motorcycle. Use METZELER’s information only as reference."
Metzeler recommend 36 front and 44 rear for your bike for both the me 880 and the me 888
I think they may have a wee bit more knowledge of the requirements of their tyres than HD
The operating manual will specify the pressures to be used with the stock Dunlop tyre which will have been recommended by Dunlop
To be sure you are using suitable pressures the psi should raise in a hot tyre by 4psi the heat in the tyre is created by side wall flex more flex = more heat and higher pressure when hot
I have found 38 psi works best on the front of all 3 of my bikes however I am not using stock tyres and on dyna not the stock wheels
Brian
I think they may have a wee bit more knowledge of the requirements of their tyres than HD
The operating manual will specify the pressures to be used with the stock Dunlop tyre which will have been recommended by Dunlop
To be sure you are using suitable pressures the psi should raise in a hot tyre by 4psi the heat in the tyre is created by side wall flex more flex = more heat and higher pressure when hot
I have found 38 psi works best on the front of all 3 of my bikes however I am not using stock tyres and on dyna not the stock wheels
Brian
BUBBIE
Well-Known Member
I owned a 1997 FXDS then a 2000 FXDS from new.. From what you say, and THEY say 
(knowledgable members here) Look at the rear swing bushings, wheel bearings, and alignment.
The alignment tool for the rear wheel its self was a piece of heavy clothes hanger (18" long) with a Point ground and a 90* bend on that end Long enough OUT(2") to allow you to place that point partially into the alignment hole on the frame and Clear over all the obstacles and get an accurate measurement (on each side) to the center point of the axle...that ALSO gets it straight with the belt and to get it straight with the swing-arm. (fine tune with the rotation of the belt moving the tire Forward rotation) Then the Long adjustment wheel to wheel...
I used a couple 10' 2x6's (straight edge board) to get the rear to front straight by adjusting the front engine adjuster... Once Straight , they handle great.
But what do I know? that was long ago:bigsmiley31:
signed....BUBBIE
(knowledgable members here) Look at the rear swing bushings, wheel bearings, and alignment.The alignment tool for the rear wheel its self was a piece of heavy clothes hanger (18" long) with a Point ground and a 90* bend on that end Long enough OUT(2") to allow you to place that point partially into the alignment hole on the frame and Clear over all the obstacles and get an accurate measurement (on each side) to the center point of the axle...that ALSO gets it straight with the belt and to get it straight with the swing-arm. (fine tune with the rotation of the belt moving the tire Forward rotation) Then the Long adjustment wheel to wheel...
I used a couple 10' 2x6's (straight edge board) to get the rear to front straight by adjusting the front engine adjuster... Once Straight , they handle great.
But what do I know? that was long ago:bigsmiley31:
signed....BUBBIE
I owned a 1997 FXDS then a 2000 FXDS from new.. From what you say, and THEY say
The alignment tool for the rear wheel its self was a piece of heavy clothes hanger (18" long) with a Point ground and a 90* bend on that end Long enough OUT(2") to allow you to place that point partially into the alignment hole on the frame and Clear over all the obstacles and get an accurate measurement (on each side) to the center point of the axle...that ALSO gets it straight with the belt and to get it straight with the swing-arm. (fine tune with the rotation of the belt moving the tire Forward rotation) Then the Long adjustment wheel to wheel...
I used a couple 10' 2x6's (straight edge board) to get the rear to front straight by adjusting the front engine adjuster... Once Straight , they handle great.
But what do I know? that was long ago:bigsmiley31:
signed....BUBBIE
I have a section of old wire coat hanger bent and shaped in a similar manner with a wee o ring on it position the o ring at the centre of the spindle then see if the other side is the same
Some of the old tricks still work we just have to remember to keep it simple
Brian