Conversion Cams: Roller Chain Drive Up-grade

[TQuentin1]

OK folks, I am about ready to make a move on this. Have been procrastinating long enough, and think I have just been lucky not to have the current system go South in the mean time.

Specs:

• '03 FLHTCUI (Ultra Classic) with 72+k miles - I got bike at ~43.5k
• Outside spring-loaded tensioner changed at around 48k miles (old one disintegrated)
• Baisley spring installed at that time
• Full synth. motor oil used in engine since 58k miles (previous owner used SYN3, I switched briefly to HD Dino)
• Installed SE 6-spd and True Track "Trackula" up-grade at 65.4k
• Installed Jagg oil cooler at 65.8k

Here is what I have decided to do:

• Conversion cam kit, Andrews Products, 288902, $483.00
• #21N cams, Andrews Products, 216821, $281.56
• TW-88 Chrome-moly pushrods (EZ Install), 292088, $131.27
• TFI, Dobeck Performance, FI-1040ST, $245.85*
• Chrome cam cover, HD, 25369-01A, $150.99**
• Screamin' Eagle Tappets, HD, 18572-07, $269.99

* - 10% discount may be available
** - chrome on current cover "bubbling". May be able to have stripped and re-chromed

Not listed above, are the inside cam shafts support bearings in the case. If they are NOT the Torrington bearings, I will swap them out while I am in there.

Any of you folks that have done the upgrade (or had it done) to roller chain drive, please comment on this plan. The prices listed above are straight off the internet at Andrews Products site, Dobeck Perf. site, or Latus HD site. If you know of a place for better pricing, please advise.

I will take lots of picts. and put together a step-by-step to post when I get done.

TQ

 

[Bud White]

I have not done it but personally i would go with gear or belt drive .. i have talked to a few indy techs and they both said the same thin timing floats with the chains and they expect the new tensioners to break also ..

We were asking because a friend needs his done also both places said the same thing and prices were alsmot same for him to do it vs gear drive or new style ..

 

[TQuentin1]

I have not done it but personally i would go with gear or belt drive .. i have talked to a few indy techs and they both said the same thin timing floats with the chains and they expect the new tensioners to break also ..

We were asking because a friend needs his done also both places said the same thing and prices were alsmot same for him to do it vs gear drive or new style ..

That is why I have been procratinating on this project for this long. My original intension was the gear drive since I just like that kind of system better to start with. Problem is with the worry about run out on the pinion. Additionally, depending on the backlash you get on the gears once the assembly starts, there are under-size and over-size gears made to achieve the require backlash for the gears on both sides of the plate (31 tooth gear on the outside, and the 34 tooth gears on the inside!!).

So in order to have everything on hand before starting the project, what does one buy?

TQ

 

[kemo]

That is why I went with the roller chain conversion. I didn't want the job tied up because I needed some different gears. As far as the timing concern I doubt that you would ever notice the timing was out because I am sure that is what the tensioner does. It keeps the chains tight. This is the chose of the future I think.
Ken

 

[Bud White]

Can't really say wish i could tell ya for sure ..

 

[TQuentin1]

That is why I went with the roller chain conversion. I didn't want the job tied up because I needed some different gears. As far as the timing concern I doubt that you would ever notice the timing was out because I am sure that is what the tensioner does. It keeps the chains tight. This is the chose of the future I think.
Ken

Ken,

Did you do the hands-on? Any "I wish I had gotten one of those ying-yangs to make it easier" type lessons learned?

TQ

 

[kemo]

TQ I did myself. Took me a day. I ordered the kit from an indy on another forum. The kit was complete right down to red and blue loctite. He sells the bearing puller and press from G/G. I got the B lifters , S/E adj p/rods oil pump and cam support plate shimschains tensioners etc. Everything, started the job and didn't have to leave to go get a thingmajig. I used the 26N cams.

My buddy and I had a little roll on the other day. He is 50lbs lighter than me and rides a R/K with a 1550 S/E kit and cams and intake and S/E slip ons. My bike is an E/G with the cams and big sucker intake and some modified stock mufflers. I pulled him in 3rd and in 5th we were even. I figure not to bad. Now if I had that 1550 I would blow his doors off

 

[Bud White]

Sort of off topic but are the 26n cams the ones they say are better for the baggers?

 

[TQuentin1]

TQ I did myself. Took me a day. I ordered the kit from an indy on another forum. The kit was complete right down to red and blue loctite. He sells the bearing puller and press from G/G. I got the B lifters , S/E adj p/rods oil pump and cam support plate shimschains tensioners etc. Everything, started the job and didn't have to leave to go get a thingmajig. I used the 26N cams.

Kemo,

Excellent! I am thinking of the 21Ns since I don't do much above 3K, and definitely never over 4K! Kinda the antithesis of Hobbit! But I could use the torque.

PM me with the details on your indy and how I can make contact.

TQ

 

[Bud White]

Kemo,

Excellent! I am thinking of the 21Ns since I don't do much above 3K, and definitely never over 4K! Kinda the antithesis of Hobbit! But I could use the torque.

PM me with the details on your indy and how I can make contact.

TQ

I'd be interested to incase my buddy decides to do it also