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Code 44 bank angle sensor

Well it happened again yesterday the check engine light turned on about six times on my way home, this time however the bike developed an intermediate sputter, more noticesable on bumps, when I got home I checked for codes and got code 44 again, I removed the seat and noticed that the turn signal/security module hold down clip was missing, I disconnected the module which according to my manual is where the BAS resides and checked for a loose connection, no loose connections found. my questions are. Could the module being loose cause the sputter from a shock of hitting a bump?
Is it possible that the BAS/ module was damaged from being loose? Is it even possible for the BAS to cause the bike to sputter?
 
Question.. how are you clearing the code 44 out of the ECM in order to make another clean run?
 
Hoople, I couldn't find any information on how to clear the codes without a scanner so I didn't. since I didn't find any other codes I assumed that it was all related.
 
roadking01 said:
my questions are. Could the module being loose cause the sputter from a shock of hitting a bump?
Is it possible that the BAS/ module was damaged from being loose? Is it even possible for the BAS to cause the bike to sputter?
Click to expand...

It is really hard to say without reference to the electrical (not service) manual #99495-01. On the later bikes such as mine the BAS will kill the engine during a "Tip Over", but if that should happen, the speedo will indicate a "tilt" has taken place and you must recycle the key to get it to start (it will NOT sputter). It does not operate like a rev limiter would, kicking on & off.

Since those BAS are considered to be a field replaceable unit, it is hard to say how deep the diagnostics go,, even if you happen to have the manual. (Would you happen to have the above manual?)

Your question, Was the unit damaged from being loose? As long as it was not knocking against the steel frame, I would doubt it. Do I think it was damaged from being loose? Probably not.

Your Question,, Can the BAS cause the bike to sputter? It really depends. If it was "bad" in a way that internally it was pulling a power supply line to ground, then sure it could. Do I think it is causing Your engine to sputter? I would say probably not.

This is one of those ugly errors where you almost have to substitute a part to see if it fixes the problem. The manual may go into detail regarding a 44 error, but I would doubt it. Most likely it will have you make a few basic checks and then say "replace the module".

My manuals give very little detail regarding BAS errors. They treat it like a black box module.
 
I don't have the electrical manual only the service manual and there is only a couple of lines in it regarding the BAS. I hate changing out parts to see if it fixes the problem but I think in this case i might have no other choice.
I will try to clear the code tonight and see if comes back before I change anything. thanks for your help. I'll let you know how it goes.

Well Hoople, I tried to clear the code using the turn signal switch procedure and failed misserably, I'm sure I'm doing something wrong. I'm not sure if the flashing I'm sopposed to look for is the check engine light or the turn signals. anyways while trying to clear the code I found a new one, 41 crank possition sensor. I have about 2000 miles on a new sensor and I hope it didnt go bad so soon. I'm going to check the sensor and connections tomorrow and let you know what I find.
 
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That's a good question about the flashing. My guess would be the turn signals for flashing. Maybe tag "Spoolit" and ask. Having a way to clear a code on a Morelli ECM without a scan tool would be great to know. The procedure was confusing to me also.

The sputter can be caused by a crank sensor. You can remove both plugs (grd plug wires) and use an AC meter to measure the output of the sensor. Manual says 1 volt or more is good but I would like to see even more. Output can be low if cranking speed is slow so remove the plugs to ease cranking load. Air gap from sensor pickup to flywheel is very critical and makes a direct influence on voltage output. Make sure female terminal pins in connector are tight and are grabbing the male pins.
 
Hoople, visually checked the cpk looked ok, I checked the connection it also looked good. I stuck a metal paper clip into the connector on the sensor side unpluged the plug wires grounded them and checked the ac volts from the sensor and got 1.9acv out of both wires. can you think of anything else I can check cuz I'm out of ideas.
I really apreciate your help on this.

Gus
 
Gus, Looking at your problem(s) as if they were my own, I would place the "sputtering" issue on the side line just for now. I would find out some way, shape or form if there was a way to clear MM codes out of the ECM and focus on getting rid of that 44 code. I would get the electrical service manual even if it did not go into the detail I would like. I would follow the flow charts till it took me to "Replace the module". Then I would hunt down a new module for a price I could afford.

The bottom line is no matter what it costs you, it will be cheaper than bringing it into a dealership and letting them tear into your bike. Unless you are very lucky, you know what taking it in is going to be like. I would rather make a mistake myself and pay for it twice than take it in to a dealership.
I am sure there are several Great HD mechanics. Finding one is the problem.

(Almost 2 volts AC is good on the crank sensor. The ECM should have no problems sensing that level of signal.)
 
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