free website stats program Can't see timing mark | Harley Davidson Forums

Can't see timing mark

T

TwoTallWyo

Member
I am trying to determine what the problem is and I know there is someone who has way more brains than I do. The problem is I can't keep it running at slow RPMS and it misses and back fired thru the carb.
I can't see see the timing mark in the site glass when trying to set timing is the problem. I have removed the front cylinder spark plug, rotated the wheel till the piston was at TDC, looked in the timing inspection hole and the lil round mark is right where it is suppose to be. Put the plug back in, inserted the glass inspection plug in the hole, started engine and there is no mark. I rotated the sensor plate in both directions and still no mark.
OH ya I forgot, the bike is a '94 bagger and I just replaced the stator. But that is another issue. It ran fine till I replaced the stator and I realize the stator replacement should not have any effect on the timing, well I think.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciate.
 
You can static time the engine to get you close.

If you set the #1 cylinder on top on compression stroke and the proper timing mark centered in the hole, use a test light to determine when the points open by rotating the breaker plate and lock it down at that point. From there you should be able to use the timing light to get the timing closer but it still should run pretty well at that point.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Glider for the quick response. I think I understand what you mean by 'static timing' I think that is to get it to run close by sound and performance and then use the timing light. I have done that but the 'dot' will not appear in the inspection hole and I have run out of adjustment space in the slot in the sensor plate.
thx again
 
Well again maybe my age has finally hit home. If you are asking if the frt cylinder is at TDC yes. As I mentioned, I pulled the frt plug out, rotated the wheel by hand till the piston was at the top of the cylinder and then verified the timing mark in the hole and both conditions occurred.
If I misunderstood your question or comment on compression, can you ask it another way.
thx again for the help
 
The reason I asked is there is more than one timing mark on the wheel.

So If I understand correctly, you can only NOT see the timing mark with the engine running??? They are a bit difficult to see unless you have the clear view plug almost touching the wheels because of the oil. I usually screw it in till it touches then just reverse the plug enough that it doesn't touch for decent results.

This internet thing leaves a lot to be desired, can't see the hand signals:yahoo

Did you see the link above?
 
Thanks for the patience Glider. I did go to the link and it has the same info as the manual I have. I can find both marks when I rotate the wheel by hand. I see the vertical lines for TDC and the dot for the advance timing mark. But when it is running I cant see either of them. I have adjusted the depth of the clear timing lug, thinking that maybe it just had too much oil on it and still nothing. I did see something somewhere to put a white paint on the advance timing dot. i will go do that now and see what happens.
Like I have said maybe my age has finally telling me to take it to someone. But then that would be giving in and not sure I am ready to do that.
Thx again for all the help and I know I can do this!!!
 
You can do it, it's a difficult thing to see those marks any time with the oil covering them. The white dot may help you out.

Good luck.
 
TwoTallWyo said:
Thanks Glider for the quick response. I think I understand what you mean by 'static timing' I think that is to get it to run close by sound and performance and then use the timing light. I have done that but the 'dot' will not appear in the inspection hole and I have run out of adjustment space in the slot in the sensor plate.
thx again
Click to expand...

Not really. What Glider is suggesting is to set the bike at TDC with the bike off. Then turn the bike on, but DO NOT START IT. "Time" the bike (rotate the sensor plate) until the test light (not a timing light connected to the spark plug, but a little test light. If you are using an aftermarket ignition, the light is usually built in) is right at the verge of going off and on. Lock down the sensor plate at that point. Lots of guys only go this far. They do NOT try and get their eye ball and a timing light in the little hole on the left side. This should give you a "close enough" timing of the engine.

Now if it will not run at idle at this point, there is something else wrong NOT the timing.

TQ
 
Kewl. By a test light you mean one that checks for 12 volts- one used for find a power volt power source? If so then I would stick one end of the tester into the spark plug and where does the other go? I hate to seem stupid here but in riding for almost 45 years I have NEVER had such problems where the manual would help me out. And all the dealers (boutiques) anymore want to do is sell parts and not even for the old models 994')
So thanks for a the help in advance
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top