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Can't see timing mark

TwoTallWyo said:
Kewl. By a test light you mean one that checks for 12 volts- one used for find a power volt power source? If so then I would stick one end of the tester into the spark plug and where does the other go? I hate to seem stupid here but in riding for almost 45 years I have NEVER had such problems where the manual would help me out. And all the dealers (boutiques) anymore want to do is sell parts and not even for the old models 994')
So thanks for a the help in advance
Click to expand...


That's what I was referring to TQ, thanks for the further clarification. I should have posted a bit more to make it more clear what I meant.

The 12 v light is what I was referring to and it get's connected to ground. The probe gets touched on the points connection (if you have points) and when the light is on, the points are open (not making a circuit) and when the points are electronically closed the light goes out,this is how you determine electrically when the circuit makes and breaks. If you are running points, first gap them correctly so the timing would be closer then. If you have an ignition module, there should be a light that operates like the 12v light to tell you when the circuit is making/breaking.
 
Wild,
I checked out the site U forward and not sure I am clear with the following statement [I]Electronic Carbureted - Many electronic ignitions have a L.E.D. light to indicate static timing. With the TOP DEAD CENTER flywheel mark in the window (ignition switch on, engine not running), turn the cam sensor plate counter clockwise until the light goes OUT.[/I] I have replaced the module with a Screaming Eagle about 10 years ago and it has no light built in. I am still unclear about the test light sequence and tools. This may seem simple to most but lke I said age has finally krept in.
Again I want to thank everyone for helping this ole man out. KUDOS to all ya
 
Are you running a VOES switch on this bike? Have you disconnected it when trying to set the timing?

How about a part number for the module?

I have replaced the module with a Screaming Eagle about 10 years ago and it has no light built in.
Click to expand...
Wish you had mentioned this up top in post #1.
 
Hey Glider, I appreciate you taking the time to get me thru this!!! I have a Screaming Eagle Ignition Mod and there is no light as you and other have mentioned. I presently have the test light probe in the plug end of the wire and the clip end on the ground of the battery and was just going to start turning the rear wheel to see what happens. I also have the timing inspection hole open so I can see/determine if the timing marks appear when they are suppose to. I am making the assumption that when the mark appears the light will go on, that is if all the parts are right. As I have stated in previous posts, I can not for the life of me determine why replacing a stator would have caused soooo many problems, but just the way it is.
thanks again for all the help
2Tall
 
ON the stator subject, did you also replace or test the voltage regulator. If it was me I'd replace it They're not that expensive, and I've heard more than once of a bad regulator frying a stator...or maybe it was vice versa, :dknow, but I do know they go hand in hand.
 
Wild,
No I did not replace the regulator this time. The stator went out this time, 'cause I did the worse thing I have done in years, took it to a dealer last time it went out and the dealer didn't tighten down one of the internal stator wire clamp screws and it came out and took out the stator. So anyhow, I didn;t replace it since I thought it would be good. But I will once I get this timing mark issue resolved.
I am getting a good spark at the plug and I have replaced the coil with a SE like I had in there.
Thanks for the advise- ;)
 
glider said:
That's what I was referring to TQ, thanks for the further clarification. I should have posted a bit more to make it more clear what I meant.

The 12 v light is what I was referring to and it get's connected to ground. The probe gets touched on the points connection (if you have points) and when the light is on, the points are open (not making a circuit) and when the points are electronically closed the light goes out,this is how you determine electrically when the circuit makes and breaks. If you are running points, first gap them correctly so the timing would be closer then. If you have an ignition module, there should be a light that operates like the 12v light to tell you when the circuit is making/breaking.
Click to expand...

Glider,

SE modules for that year do not have any lights on them. The book for the '94 calls for the vacuum line from the carb to the VOES connected when timing. the ignition is electronic. The test light probably won't help much. From the TwoTall's last post, he had one end on the - battery post and the other in the "plug end".

TwoTall - what plug end? If it's the spark plug boot, that's the wrong place.... Did you have a the motor speed at between 1300-1500 RPM when you tried to time it? That what the manual calls for... Also, the timing light should be connected to the front cylinder plug cable.

Here's what the HD manual call out for timing a 94 bagger...

1. Connect the timing light to the front spark plug cable, ground and positive battery terminal

2. Make sure vacuum hose is properly installed at carburetor and at vacuum operated electric switch

3. Start engine and set engine speed at 1300-1500 rpm. Light will flash each time spark occurs.

4. Aim timing light into timing inspection hole. Front cylinder advance timing mark should be centered in timing inspection hole.

5. If timing mark is not centered or visible in the timing inspection hole, ......... Loosen sensor plate screws just enough so that plate can be rotated using a screwdriver in the notch.

6. With timing light aimed into inspection hole, rotate plate until timing mark is in the center of the inspection hole.

That's it... No other info for static timing....
 
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