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Cam Chain Tensioner

SALSERO said:
I love that forum... :) Thanks for all the info...

Another question:
Ok. I probably have quite worn out tensioners. Is it safe and easy to unscrew the crank case cover bolts just for the visual inspection. Or does this action cause a leakage afterwards because of the unreplaced gasket? Does it need any oil replacement when case cover opened?

It is safe and easy to remove the cam cover (not the crank case cover); you may have to remove the front exhaust or at least cut off an allen wrench so you can remove the fasteners behind the cam cover. The new H-D gaskest can be reused and your old gasket may be reused provided you don't tear it during removal. If you can get a new gasket, I would opt for that.

You shouldn't lose more than a pint of oil; not enough to be concerned about; a lot of people run a half quart low anyway.


SALSERO said:
By the way I started searching for the parts from US.
Since I live in Turkey. Buying Harley parts from Istanbul is about 5 times the suggested retail price... :(

I need your comments about 2 issues:

1. Does it worth buying aftermarket parts?
2. Do you have any suggestions about dealers that has online sales?

Thx in advance... :D

To the best of my knowledge, there are no aftermarket replacement parts for the cam tensioners or any of the hardware behind the cam cover unless you wanted to convert to gear drives, which is for another post. There are several discount H-D dealers in the US and shipping for the parts you would need to change out the tensioner wouldn't be much. I use Zanotti's to buy most of my parts. They have a Look Up page where you can input the part number, see the cost and build an order online.

ZANOTTI MOTOR CO. INC, Butler, PA 16001 - We Have the Part You Need!

They also have a chat feature where you can talk to the parts guys online as well. The time difference will make that a little challenging for you but you just have to get up real early or stay up late. Good luck!
 
Thanks everyone for all the info...
I really appreciate that :)

Time difference is not a matter. I'm 7-11 hours behind (East/West) but I'm a night living guy :p

Considering I have a '00 FLHR (Roadking) at 32k miles what other replacements should I make other than cam tensioners?

Primary & secondary chains?
Front fork bearings?
Belt?
Rear fork (swingarm) bearings?
Engine mounts & stabilizer links?
Stator assembly?
Camdrive sprockets?
Which gasket sets should I order?

Sorry if I'm asking too much but I'm really unexperienced with a Harley (only 3 months after having metric cruisers for 4 years :p)

:)
 
The bike is just getting broken in! Replace the tensioners and ride. Wouldn't hurt to check those other areas of interest but "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" is still good advice.

Inner tensioner PN 39964-99A
Outer tensioner PN 39954-99A
Cam service gasket kit PN 17045-99A

The tensioners are about $36 each from Zanottis; don't know the price for the gasket kit but it will include new o-rings as well.

You will need to remove the cam plate to replace the inner tensioner which means you will need to remove the rocker boxes to pull the pushrods or cut them with bolt cutters and replace them with adjustable units.

SE Quick Install Tapered Pushrods PN 18404-08. $136 from Zanotti's; o-rings, tubes and clips are included.

You should get the service manual for your bike befor taking on this little project. Not hard but the manual is very helpful. If I have overlooked anything, I am sure someone will point it out. Good luck.
 
I just had my tensioners replaced at 21K miles. The upgrade kit for hydraulic tensioners had a lot of other stuff with it like, lifters, cam chain, beariings, oil pump cam mounting plate. Labor and parts.... $1200.00 USD. I asked for all of the old parts back and they looked new, except the orange tensioner shoes were a lottle bit worn, but not too bad. I could have waited at least another maybe 10K miles but being the Harley hypocondriac that I am, I just went ahead and had it done so I wouldn't have to worry about for quite a while. Now I have to deal with a main shifter seal leak. Aaaaargh
 
I loved the idea of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" :)
Below is the list of the parts needed for the replacements that the HD mechanic told me... (I know that there are some recurring parts because of the already existing parts in KITs)

They cost about 1100-1500$
The service will cost me about 1000$ more. :(
2500$ for a 30k Miles service...
Oh my god I can't belive it...

I think I'm gonna replace;
* Oil
* Tranny oil
* Cam chains (not quite sure if I should replace them)
* Cam tensioners
* Fuel filter
* Oil filter

and will not touch the rest until a problem or an abnormal sound arises :)

Does that sound meaningful to you guys?



17052-99 GASKET KIT, top end
17053-99 GASKET KIT, engine overhaul
17045-99 GASKET KIT, cam service
16719-99 GASKET KIT, rocker housing
17386-99 GASKET KIT, rocker cover
25610-99 CHAIN, primary camdrive
63798-99 Oil Filter, Chrome
16219-79B Stabilizer Link
16207-79D Engine Mount, front
29476-99 Breathertube
33759-99 Shifter rod
34901-94A GASKET, primary cover
34906-85A GASKET, inspection cover
25416-99A SEAL, clutch cover
38667-00 Cable, clutch conrol
48300-60 Roller bearing w/ cup
48315-60 CUP, bearing
14422-94 Nameplate Roadking
34904-86C GASKET, upper cover
47492-89A Pivot shaft kit
50112-99 Spring, jiffy stand
40024-97 Rear Belt - 139T
40037-79A Primary Chain
39976-65B Pad, Chain Tensioner
40063-05A Automatic primary chain tension adjuster
44082-00 Pad Kit
9247 Sealed ball bearing
9267 Sealed ball bearing
7748W Nut
8990 Ball bearing
25609-99 Sprocket, cam drive 17T
25716-99 Sprocket, cam drive 34T
56161-83A Bushing rubber
56163-93 Spacer
56159-73 Cup washer
47556-81 Bushing Assembly w/ #20
25607-99 Chain, secondary cam drive
39954-99 Chain tensioner, primary cam drive chain
39964-99 Chain tensioner, secondary cam drive chain
39965-99 Chain guide
24623-99B Bearing, main-right side of crankshaft
29229-88B Cable, enrichment
48361-80 Dust shield, Bearing upper
48365-48A Dust shield, Bearing lower
45794-94A Plate locking
62170-81A Fuel Filter
29987-99 Stator Assembly
Screaming eagle Spark plugs
 
Just had mine done at 30,000 they were a little over halfway worn and starting to pit. It is an 04 police bike and probably saw a lot of slow hot riding. It also needed an oil pump. Cost just over eleven hundred dollars parts and labor. I wish I would have done the job myself and went with gear drive setup after I thought about it. They wanted almost $400.00 for the tools to do the job from ahrley. I found out I could have gotten them a lot cheaper. I will get the tools when I do my wifes Heritage in about another 5,000 miles and I will go with a gear drive.
 
When i changed my oil i would see the orange flakes in the bottom of my oil pan when i would dump the oil into another container so i checked my tensioners with 38000 on it.I was surprised to see the tensioner was just starting to make a wear mark of the cam chain.I changed the shoes anyway.

When i changed my oil i would see the orange flakes in the bottom of my oil pan when i would dump the oil into another container so i checked my tensioners with 38000 on it.I was surprised to see the tensioner was just starting to make a wear mark of the cam chain.I changed the shoes anyway.

Sorry wear mark on shoe not chain
 
It's funny to hear the experiances of different people and thier milage when they need to replace them. I have heard the mechanics say that they had a bike with 68,000 miles on a set and another bike chewed up a set in just 14,000 miles. I think lots of heat type of usage and maintance might play a role in the longjevity of them. Maybe synthetic versus dino oil makes a differance also, although I don't really know if there is any difference.
 
Yeah it's a good idea to check them, they are the weak link or ticking time bomb in the twin cam in my opinion. At least you will have peace of mind if you check them. It's something you don't want going south on a long trip far from home that's for sure.
 
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