free website stats program Broken transmission / front pulley (1994 FXR) | Harley Davidson Forums

Broken transmission / front pulley (1994 FXR)

B

Banjer

New Member
Dear all,

I have the following problem with my FXR Superglide 1340cc from 1994:

When I rode away from home the other day, I suddenly lost traction and a very disturbing rattling noise came from my engine / transmission.

I removed the primary case, chain w. clutch, housing to find out that when I turn the 'ingoing' shaft in my transmission, the front pulley / belt / rearwheel do not turn, and the rattling noise is there again.

This is the case in every gear I try. I opened the transmission cover, everything looks well inside (but I am not an expert...)

I suspect the connection between the front pulley and the outgoing shaft from the transmission is broken. I guess this is a spline, but I am not sure.

I am trying to remove the front pulley-nut (with a 50mm socket - we do not have that much inch sockets in the Netherlands) but, apparently due to the fact that something is broken, something inside is also rotating and the nut won't come loose.

There is also that metal plate w. to allen-screws, I don't understand what is does. Currently nothing since I removed the allen screws and the nut glides over it anyway --> this might be the cause of the problem?

Wow - a long story, in short, my questions are:
- How is the pulley attached to the outgoing shaft of the transmission?
- What is the function of this metal plate?
- Can this metal plate be the reason that my pulley doesn't rotate when I turn the ingoing axle of my transmission (in any given gear).
- The nut on the pulley 'glides over' this metal plate - can this be the reason that things broke down?
- If not, what else can be the reason for this (maybe inside the transmission?
- How can I remove the metal plate and the front pulley (I tried an air-gun), is it left or right turning? (I believe I should turn it counterclockwise to remove it).

I might not be able to explain everything perfectly, due to my lack of technical english (that's the disadvantage of being Dutch), but any indications, hints etc. are more than welcome!

Thanks in advance,
Banjer
 
Banjer said:
Wow - a long story, in short, my questions are:
- How is the pulley attached to the outgoing shaft of the transmission?
- What is the function of this metal plate?
- Can this metal plate be the reason that my pulley doesn't rotate when I turn the ingoing axle of my transmission (in any given gear).
- The nut on the pulley 'glides over' this metal plate - can this be the reason that things broke down?
- If not, what else can be the reason for this (maybe inside the transmission?
- How can I remove the metal plate and the front pulley (I tried an air-gun), is it left or right turning? (I believe I should turn it counterclockwise to remove it).
Click to expand...

What you mentioned is a problem with that model year. Some times the locking plate screw, there was only one. would come loose, letting the sprocket nut back off, and the sprocket get loose. And since the pulley spines were not cut very deep, they would strip out.

The replacement pulley and locking plate are engineered to solve this problem. The new pulley has 2 places for the screws that go thru the locking plate.

In answer to your questions

- How is the pulley attached to the outgoing shaft of the transmission?

Via the splines on the pulley

- What is the function of this metal plate?

It locks the sprocket nut in place so it does not loosen.

- Can this metal plate be the reason that my pulley doesn't rotate when I turn the ingoing axle of my transmission (in any given gear).

Partially. As mentioned above. The plate may have come loose, the nut backed off, and the splines in the sprocket get stripped.

- The nut on the pulley 'glides over' this metal plate - can this be the reason that things broke down?

Yes. The nut has backed off

- How can I remove the metal plate and the front pulley (I tried an air-gun), is it left or right turning? (I believe I should turn it counterclockwise to remove it).

Remove the outer primary, clutch, clutch basket, comp sprocket and primary drive chain. Remove the inner primary. Remove the locking plate screw and locking plate. The remove the sprocket nut. WARNING!! THIS NUT HAS A LEFT HANDED THREAD!!

If you have used an air gun on the nut and did try to remove it like a normally threaded nut, you may have stripped the nut and/or the threads on the shaft.

If all that happens, when you try to remove the nut in the correct direction, is the rear wheel spins, you can try and have some press the rear brake pedal. But, if the sprocket splines are totally stripped, you'll have to find a way to keep the transmission gears from rotating.

If you don't have a manual, please get one. I'm working from the FLHR manual from the year. The final drives are basically the same. But I can not be sure the torque or the torquing procedure is the same. The manual for my 96 has a different torquing procedure that involves both torque and addition degrees of turn for that nut on installation.

This is probably the case with the new style pulley and locking plate.

I'll try and help all I can with info, but again, a you really need a manual.
 
Last edited:
Sorry... I ran out of editing time in my last message..

After re-reading your post, I see the the transmission shaft rotates but the the rear wheel doesn't.

The splines on the sprocket are stripped. So using the rear brake will not help you.

You could try using a die-grinder with a small cut off wheel, or with a small grinding tip, and cut the nut in half in two places. Just work very slowly. You don't want scar the shaft.

Or you could try and heat the nut, just a little, and see if can be loosened. If you are using a socket, please use one that has a tight fit.

Or you could remove the transmission top and see if you can place a piece of metal stock in the gears to hold them steady. If you decide to try this, please be very careful!
 
evo sporttys had a similar problem I repaired a lot of them alot easier fix than a big twin good luck
 
Dear all,

Sorry for my late reply, unfortunately I have to share my attention between my Harley and other things (like work :( ). Anyway, thank you all very much for your help, I hope to be able to bring all your tips in action somewhere later this week, and hopefully I will be able to inform you later that the problem is solved!

Kind regards, Banjer!
 
Hello all of you,

It took some perseverence and help, but things worked out well:
- Got a proper socket (not so easy to find, but this one is used on large outboard-engines)
- with airgun on full power, clockwise
- One of my friends holding-back a gear with a large screwdriver.

Probably won't win the beauty-contest, but it worked. And indeed - the front pulley's teeth are completely wore-out, luckily, the teeth on the outgoing shaft of the gearbox are still OK!

Anybody a good suggestion for a new pulley & belt? (brand and place to buy?) I expect I won't ride it that often anymore (now it has 85.000 KM on it), so it doesn't have the best quality, just a good price / quality level.

Gr. Banjer.
 
When you install the new pulley nut, don`t lock the gears with a foreign object (screwdriver), just remove the shift drum and then lock the transmission by engaging two gears at the same time, the procedure is in the manual. Much easier on the gears.
 
Dan89FLSTC said:
When you install the new pulley nut, don`t lock the gears with a foreign object (screwdriver), just remove the shift drum and then lock the transmission by engaging two gears at the same time, the procedure is in the manual. Much easier on the gears.
Click to expand...

Since you will have a new sprocket, you can just put the trans in gear, and use the rear brake to keep it from moving. That will keep the trans from rotating and you should have no problem torquing the nut.

You can use any manufacture for the pulley, just be sure it has the 2 hole for the locking plate. I would use a HD or gates belt for the final drive. It may came with torquing instrutions, if not I can post the instrutions from new '96. That's the year they changed over to the new pulley and locking plate.

The torque should be 50 ft-lbs. Then check to see if the locking plate screw hole line up. If they don't, tighten the nut until they do. Do not exceed 45 degress of turn when trying to line up the plate screw holes. That degree clocking may be 90 degrees. I will verify this when I get home and re-post if needed.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I may be wrong, but didn't they change the mainshaft/pully spline pattern somewhere in the mid 90's to help with this? I thought it worth mentioning so Banjer doesn't get the wrong spline.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top