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The whine sound on your 1995 can be due to mismatched cam & pinion gear size, which should be measured when changing cam gears. The 2018 cam drive system is different, so difficult to compare.
 
The whine sound on your 1995 can be due to mismatched cam & pinion gear size, which should be measured when changing cam gears. The 2018 cam drive system is different, so difficult to compare.

Thanks for the reply, on my original post I said I had a roller bearing let go on one lifter taking out the cam and sending little pieces of exploded bearing pieces who knows where in the motor, and if anyone had the same thing happen to them and what would be the direction to go to fix it, so now I have replaced the lifters and the same exact cam and shim that was in the motor, so I would think it would it run and sound the same, but it's lower on power and it has that wine sound, I looked at the Andrews cam instructions it says if the cam has insufficient backlash it will wine, I had 8 thousands clearance in the with cam shim that was in it so that is good, but when I went to put the rotor on, it looked like it was going to hit the back of ignition plate it was close I didn't have a way to measure it, I tapped the cam in alittle thinking it could move on its own back and fourth with that 8 thousands clearance, but with the spring tension of the rocker arms maybe it can't move freely? and this it's all my fault for tapping the cam forward to basically 0 tolerance?
 
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I think you put the cart in front of the horse. When you noticed that you had a hydraulic lifter bearing failure you needed to remove the cylinders. And though not recommended you should have sucked the oil out of the crank case. Then added some mineral spirits and flushed out the crank case with vacuum hose then added some more mineral spirts and feed a small magnet in the case and rotate the crank so you have the larger crank opening where the connecting rod is, facing down and move the magnet around to pick up any metal debris. Then vacuum out the mineral spirits. Add a small amount of oil to crank case coating the connecting rod bearings and slowly rotate the crank to see if you feel the connecting rods binding if you do then the metal shavings have damaged the connecting rod bearings. Before you installed the new cam you should have measured the cam gear pitch angle across two .108 measuring pins and done the same with the pinion gear. Andrews has the measurement requirements. If you do not have enough backlash you will have the wining noise you are referring to. Then you should have installed the cam shaft and temporarily installed the cam cover with a new gasket and torqued the cam cover then check the cam end play through the removed tappet block area to ensure you have enough end play. You should have installed a new breather gear and also checked the shimming on it. Andrews has good instructions on checking gear teeth pitch and required cam end play. And when you temporarily installed the cam cover with tappet blocks removed along with pinion gear you also need to rotate the cam to ensure that the rear cam lobe is not hitting the crank case. You should not think that things will line up as before as items are build with plus or minus tolerances.
 
Just to make sure cam "end-play" is not the same as "backlash" to me. Cam end-play in my 1992 HD Dyna S.M. say's .010"-.015", your .008" should not make a great difference. Gear pitch as Frenchie described above is what I sometimes refer to as backlash. I'm only bringing this up so we all know exactly what we are describing to each other to help solve your ??. My S.M. says incompatable gear pitch can result in a "whine", then goes on to state "proper gear clearance will give a very slight whine when engine is hot". You may be noticing more of a whining sound than I would?? As for being down on power, all I can guess right off is the breather gear may be mistimed and not venting precisely.
 
Check your nose cone bushing as well. Before tearing mine down it had a whining noise, sounded like a supercharger. Here the bushing in the nose cone was replaced with a inner case cam bearing instead of a brass bushing. My cam sloshed around at .020 opposed to the .015 max and almost ate everything up. Im new and all but been learning more and more through open eyes, guys like y'all, and experience from misses and that dont look rights. My 1340 is a wrench, ride, repeat piece but ive come accrossed some weird shit with it after crackin it open for a rebuild. Just givin some lack of sense. Make sure you check bushing wear also.
 
To clearing end play is the measurement of the cam being pushed in and out and measured through the tappet block openings. Andrews cams states “ Remove ignition cover and stock cam. Measure installed length of stock cam and new cam. Cams for 1984-'87 engines should measure 3.025 inches from front face of gear to thrust shoulder surface. Cams for ’88 and later EV engines need to be shimmed to 3.075 (+.050 longer) because of a factory design change in the length of all '88 and later camshafts. Proper end play for installed camshafts is .010 /.015 inches. EV engines use the same shims as shovels”. When I stated pitch angle I was referring to the measurement of the cam gear teeth if the old cam gear and new cam gear are within .0005 then there should not be an issue in relation to the pinion gear as the gear teeth pitch are compatible if the new cam gear is not within the spec then you will need to replace the pinion gear. If the backlash between the above mentioned gears is to tight then it will result in above mentioned gear failure. Hope this clarifies my statement.
Just to make sure cam "end-play" is not the same as "backlash" to me. Cam end-play in my 1992 HD Dyna S.M. say's .010"-.015", your .008" should not make a great difference. Gear pitch as Frenchie described above is what I sometimes refer to as backlash. I'm only bringing this up so we all know exactly what we are describing to each other to help solve your ??. My S.M. says incompatable gear pitch can result in a "whine", then goes on to state "proper gear clearance will give a very slight whine when engine is hot". You may be noticing more of a whining sound than I would?? As for being down on power, all I can guess right off is the breather gear may be mistimed and not venting precisely.
 
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