Another Heat Management question

[Porter]

I agree that killing the rear cylinder won't buy you much extra time. I use it more as an indicator to make me aware of the situation. If heat mode kicks in, and I clearly see I won't be moving any time soon, it tells me that I need to make some kind of decision. My heat mode kicks in when the temp sensor (mounted in Front cylinder) hits about 310*. Killing the rear cylinder does not stop the heat from rising. Extra fuel can only do so much. On a normal day, my air fuel ratio at idle is about 13.2- 13.4. I have not measured it, but when heat mode kicks in, I am sure the front mixture goings into the low 12's maybe even in the 11's. Trust me it is rich, and the temp still rises. These engines are air cooled, not ambient cooled. Unless there is air flow around the fins, the temp will continue to rise. When exhaust gases are 950*, there is no stopping it.

I have experienced (not with HD engines but with other air cooled engines) needless engine damage caused by excessive (uncontrolled) engine temperatures. At the very least I have seen piston rings de-tension or loose spring tension which results in compression lose and oil control. Not seeing an engine seize does not mean your engine escaped damage. Who's going to really notice a small amount of compression lose or a little more oil usage. I also feel that if you don't have a current 96 or 103, you have a lot less to worry about as far as heat goes.

I concur. I had the HM turned on simply to be an indicator to make a decision.

One thought about the post on the "hot/cold" plugs: I remember reading that HD spark plugs are a precise item on new models (2007 on???) in that an error code can be thrown.

 

[Mad Dog Jim]

4.) If I can't get moving quick, I am either going to ride up the shoulder to get some air moving or pull over and shut it down.

Last summer I got behind a line of stopped traffic crossing the I205 bridge from Portland to Vancouver. We don't have the same passing laws that California does for motorcycles, so I tried to be lawful. But the bike started heating up so I pulled to the outside and rolled up the sholder at about 25 mph with my 4 ways on. All was well until other bikes started jumping in behind me. Monkey see monkey do. A ways later a road rage customer tried to smash me against the bridge railing. I saw it coming and dodged him, so no big deal.

I just wish there was a law allowing motorcycles to use the E lanes, 4 ways on, no faster than 25 mph in situations like that. Its a safety thing. I know it's going to iritae someone, but not as much as it would iritae EVERYONE if the bike died in the middle of all of that.

 

[Porter]

Last summer I got behind a line of stopped traffic crossing the I205 bridge from Portland to Vancouver. We don't have the same passing laws that California does for motorcycles, so I tried to be lawful. But the bike started heating up so I pulled to the outside and rolled up the sholder at about 25 mph with my 4 ways on. All was well until other bikes started jumping in behind me. Monkey see monkey do. A ways later a road rage customer tried to smash me against the bridge railing. I saw it coming and dodged him, so no big deal.

I just wish there was a law allowing motorcycles to use the E lanes, 4 ways on, no faster than 25 mph in situations like that. Its a safety thing. I know it's going to iritae someone, but not as much as it would iritae EVERYONE if the bike died in the middle of all of that.

I have only had to do it twice, but I did have concern about a cage doing something like that, but I only went to the next exit and took a break until traffic cleared. To be honest I am not sure what Maryland laws are on this issue, but either way, since I was going to the next exit and it could honestly be considered a safety issue, I thought I would have a good argument if an officer stopped me. There can be lots of debris on a shoulder, so it is definitly not a risk free option as far as a flat tire goes.

 

[Morris9982]

I am not sure about the 2007 models but on my 2009 you can activate the rear cylinder cut out feature (EITMS or something like that) yourself without having to go to the dealer. The procedure below was in my owner's manual.

Turn ignition on but do not start bike.
Roll throttle backward and hold until cruise indicator light blinks green.
Turn ignition off without starting engine.

If the light turns orange that means you just deactivated it. Go through the procedure again and make sure it turns green.

You can also activate it manually when running by rolling the throttle backwards while idling and watching the light turn green. Again, if it turns orange you just turned if off. If you do it this way you'll have to activate it every time you start the bike. If you do it the other way above, it will be active all the time.

 

[R_W_B]

I am not sure about the 2007 models but on my 2009 you can activate the rear cylinder cut out feature (EITMS or something like that) yourself without having to go to the dealer. The procedure below was in my owner's manual. ... ..... .... .... ....

Thanks for the reply Morris. Actually I found that on 07s and early 08s it has to be enabled or disabled by the dealer and many dealer's will do this ONCE at no charge.

On later 08s with TBW (Throttle By Wire) it is turned on or off by your above said manual procedure.

 

[ultrat]

I am not sure about the 2007 models but on my 2009 you can activate the rear cylinder cut out feature (EITMS or something like that) yourself without having to go to the dealer. The procedure below was in my owner's manual.

Turn ignition on but do not start bike.
Roll throttle backward and hold until cruise indicator light blinks green.
Turn ignition off without starting engine.

If the light turns orange that means you just deactivated it. Go through the procedure again and make sure it turns green.

You can also activate it manually when running by rolling the throttle backwards while idling and watching the light turn green. Again, if it turns orange you just turned if off. If you do it this way you'll have to activate it every time you start the bike. If you do it the other way above, it will be active all the time.

I have found on my 09 whether you activate it w/ engine running or off, it recognizes it from then on..

 

[glazier]

I have experienced (not with HD engines but with other air cooled engines) needless engine damage caused by excessive (uncontrolled) engine temperatures. At the very least I have seen piston rings de-tension or loose spring tension which results in compression lose and oil control. Not seeing an engine seize does not mean your engine escaped damage. Who's going to really notice a small amount of compression lose or a little more oil usage. I also feel that if you don't have a current 96 or 103, you have a lot less to worry about as far as heat goes.

I've got a 2000 Heritage Softail with an 88. The heat from the rear cylinder can be unbearable at times, especially in the Texas summers. I put on the saddle shields to divert the heat off my thighs (and other body parts) and they help, but I still feel intense heat coming from the rear cylinder. I put in a dipstick with a thermometer and cruising on the highway it will hit 250 degrees. Even going 75 mph late at night in the summer, I can still feel major heat. If I get stopped in traffic, I literally can't sit on it. Have to pull over and shut it down or ride the shoulder. I put on one of those oil filter coolers and that helped a little but it only dissipates the heat at the filter. Thinking about getting an oil cooler soon. Last year I had the dealer put in synthetic oil thinking it would make it run cooler. It actually ran hotter. Just put in regular 20W-50 HD oil, so I'll have to see what that does. Might go to Mobil 1 synthetic and see if that makes a difference. Heard better things about the Mobil 1 than the HD synthetic oil. I just rebuilt the carb and put 2 #4 washers under the needle to make it a little richer, so that also might make it run a little cooler. It sure made it run better. I'm just wondering why Harley is aware of the rear cylinder heat problem and can't fix it. Surely there's something they can do, other than to make the rear cylinder shut down, but that's jmho. :bigsmiley12:

 

[R_W_B]

.... ... ... .... ....
I'm just wondering why Harley is aware of the rear cylinder heat problem and can't fix it. Surely there's something they can do, other than to make the rear cylinder shut down, but that's jmho... ...

They could make them water cooled but they feel they would not sell as many bikes and probably true. Many feel the time is coming when EPA requirements will force all bikes to go liquid cooled (with fans). It's a different sound and look but they are more cooler.

I think a Lenale Fan might help your thighs some, ( it does mine a little) but it would help the engine more. My thighs still get kinda hot at a red light even with the Lenale fan. I never feel the heat when moving though (and I don't use the fan when moving).

 

[Hoople]

I've got a 2000 Heritage Softail with an 88. The heat from the rear cylinder can be unbearable at times, especially in the Texas summers. I put in a dipstick with a thermometer and cruising on the highway it will hit 250 degrees. Even going 75 mph late at night in the summer, I can still feel major heat.

I am really surprised a carb 2000 runs that hot. 250 oil temp while moving at 75 mph sounds intense on a 88. I have a friend who owns a 2002 Softail model "B" and I am amazed at how cool his engine is compared to my 96.

Next time we ride together, I am going to take another set of measurements because now you have me wondering.

 

[doctordoug]

Does it half to be distilled?? Will city water work..How about a back pack with a big water jug and hose with lawn sprayer?..:bigsmiley23:

The only critical point is that it has to be HD branded water! You can get it at the dealer for $100.00 !