ABS Bike runs rough when brakes applied

[larryjmiller]

Well, I checked it when I got home. No more rattle when the front brake is applied. I would recommend you check the allen head bolts that attach the exhaust to the tranny just below the chrome clutch housing. Previously, I didn't notice the rattle when applying the front brake at idle until I had the other rattle from those two loose bolts.

It is possible that the rattle went away when the dealer made the ABS software change when I had the fluids changed at 5K miles. Although I can't tell the difference on stopping between the pre-software upgrade and how it stops now. The brakes still go into ABS mode at the slightest bump in the road when I apply the brakes. Makes me wonder if they actually did the software upgrade. When I asked them to do the upgrade, they looked at me like I was daft shrugged shoulders and said O.K. I suppose I could take it to another shop to check? Actually, I'm not letting them touch her unless the engine or tranny takes a dump which I doubt will happen these bikes are made like brick houses. I like the ABS and the way it works and I'm used to it engaging when breaking on a rough surface. At least I know it's working.

 

[BUBBIE]

Well, I checked it when I got home. No more rattle when the front brake is applied. I would recommend you check the allen head bolts that attach the exhaust to the tranny just below the chrome clutch housing. Previously, I didn't notice the rattle when applying the front brake at idle until I had the other rattle from those two loose bolts.

It is possible that the rattle went away when the dealer made the ABS software change when I had the fluids changed at 5K miles. Although I can't tell the difference on stopping between the pre-software upgrade and how it stops now. The brakes still go into ABS mode at the slightest bump in the road when I apply the brakes. Makes me wonder if they actually did the software upgrade. When I asked them to do the upgrade, they looked at me like I was daft shrugged shoulders and said O.K. I suppose I could take it to another shop to check? Actually, I'm not letting them touch her unless the engine or tranny takes a dump which I doubt will happen these bikes are made like brick houses. I like the ABS and the way it works and I'm used to it engaging when breaking on a rough surface. At least I know it's working.

ON MY 2009 FLHR

I have found the SNAKE SKIN header pipe clamps LOOSE and were making NOISE::: only needed tightening with a flat screwdriver.......

YOU might want to check YOURS as they can come loose and MOST don't check the tightness and wonder WHERE IS THAT NOISE COM'N FROM???....

signed....BUBBIE

 

[larryjmiller]

Thanks Bubbie. When I found those 2 loose bolts, I checked every other nut and bolt I could get to. Everything else was not loose (and no, I didn't use a torque wrench, I just checked to see if they were snug). I also checked the exhaust hose clamps and all were tight except one which I tightened. It was right at the bend where the pipes split. Maybe that's where the noise was coming from.

 

[Retrop]

Excellent point about the M-1251 service bulletin to reflash your 2009 ABS brakes. It does make a huge difference when hitting the rear brake. Prior to the reflash, engaging the rear brake when going over something like a tar strip or a few bumps in the road would make the tire chirp when it was trying to lock up. After the reflash it works just as good only it is not as sensitive. Dealers will do if for nothing, but you might have to call it to their attention. Just mention M-1251 and they can find it. In the old days service bulletins were sent to the dealers and they looked at them before they put them in their binders. In today's computer world, service bulletins are no longer sent to the dealers in a hard copy. They are posted on their restricted web site. Some find them, some don't. This website is a good source if you want to look at some of them.

 

[wb4eje]

All three of my Electra Glides ('96-'05-'08) have exhibited this same thing. I figured it out after a while. When you are idling the motor is shaking the frame pretty hard. The heavy front wheel is hanging out there on the front forks and it vibrates quite a bit. You can easily see it. When you pull the brake handle the brake stops the front wheel from vibrating fore-aft and that changes the mode of vibration in the frame, and in your seat and the bars. So the rider senses a significant change in the vibration.

The rear brake doesn't make as much difference because the rear wheel is much more ridgidly mounted and doesn't vibrate as much as the front wheel that is cantilevered out on the forks.

 

[zyepod]

All three of my Electra Glides ('96-'05-'08) have exhibited this same thing. I figured it out after a while. When you are idling the motor is shaking the frame pretty hard. The heavy front wheel is hanging out there on the front forks and it vibrates quite a bit. You can easily see it. When you pull the brake handle the brake stops the front wheel from vibrating fore-aft and that changes the mode of vibration in the frame, and in your seat and the bars. So the rider senses a significant change in the vibration.

The rear brake doesn't make as much difference because the rear wheel is much more ridgidly mounted and doesn't vibrate as much as the front wheel that is cantilevered out on the forks.

I agree... Still wished it didn't do it. I thought my rotors were warped. Then realized it was exactly as you've stated here. So to lessen the effect for me I apply the front brake coming to a stop then just before I pull the clutch in to hold I stop using the front brake... I use the front brake at a stop if I have to but I don't like the feel...