Tried everything suggested here and I am still getting a ton of pop. I have used the auto tune feature a bunch of times and it changes every time I run.
If you tried swinging the adjusts in both extreme directions, and the smart tune values change from run to run in addtion to having a Ton of popping, it almost points to an exhaust leak at the header pipe(s). Do you still have a crossover pipe or are your pipes true duals.
Getting those pipes to seal was trickier than I thought when I pulled them off my bike. I finally had to resort to a smoke machine to find and seal the leaks. But I still have a cross-over which made it harder.
Tried everything suggested here and I am still getting a ton of pop. I have used the auto tune feature a bunch of times and it changes every time I run. I am to the point where I am considering having it done professionally because I don't want to hurt my engine or blue my pipes. Any suggestions? I am just shocked there is not a super tuner web site where people upload there maps.
Like what Hoople said, only change one thing at a time or you will not know what fixed or hurt the problem. Do not rush the Smart Tuning and having your VE tables correct takes time. It took me 15-20 runs of 30-45 minutes each hitting all of the throttle and MAP locations to get my tables to where my variations are now less than 1-2%. Correct VE tables also took care of my decel poping with a combo of decel eleanment table and adjusting my AFR target to a richer setting in the 20 MAP column (both on engine braking and when I shifted).
Also there is no site for folks to review/upload your file, that's what your dealer/dyno guy is for if you are not wanting to invest your own time in Smart tuning. However, folks can provide some direction and hints to what might help.
I took this from a TTS thread on another open site, but the concepts are similar to SEPST.
1. Gearing: take for instance, 2,000 rpm in 3rd will have a lower MAP reading than 2,000 rpm in 5th when both are run at a steady state cruise. If you only populate your V-tune histogram which the early gearing (1st-3rd), then you will likely be missing much of the higher MAP cells.
2. Rate of aceleration (and deceleration): before reading further understand that all throttle movements need to be controlled in order to account for the zeroing of the AE and DE tables while v-tuning. Steady state cruising will get a good bit of cells filled, but varying the throttle pressure is needed in order to get the outside cells. This means you need to work the throttle (no sudden movements) at the various rpm ranges in various gears to change the load the engine is seeing (MAP). You also want to do controlled decelerations, meaning that you are holding the throttle during the decel (again, you do not want rapid changes)
here's a v-tune process I posted earlier this year (this will work for both lambda and TPS based v-tunes):
1. short shift the first couple of gears- meaning once you start moving, shift through 1st and 2nd gears to get into 3rd gear (be careful not to overly lug the engine). Gently do roll on's from the low rpm's in third gear to the high rpm's (as high as RPM's as you feel comfortable with...I took mine to 5.5-6k), repeat in 4th, repeat in 5th, repeat in 6th. Make sure you're not accelerating too fast, or you will exceed the maximum MAP. The more you get this area tuned the smoother it will feel (adding some timing might help too, depending on the engine and base cal)
2. Do some controlled decels slowly with pressure on the throttle (what I would call dragging the decel), and also do some fast decels at speed in the upper rpm's to get the far left side cells.
3. find some hills, and short shift through the gears before gently rolling on the throttle. Remember the higher the gear, the higher the MAP. If you find that you're not getting hi-MAP cells in the early RPM's, increase the gearing used.
4. find a road that you can ride fast on (closed course of course ), and wind out 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears with several different throttle ranges (making sure not to accel to fast, or you will exceed the allowable v-tune MAP). The higher the gear the higher the MAP, but the rate of acceleration is a key as well. If you find yourself uncomfortable winding 5th gear out (because a closed course is not available), then increase the rate of throttle pressure running in 3rd and 4th. Running several runns in each gear at various rate of throttle pressure (rate of acceration) will help cover a wider MAP range (and TPS for the AFR based cals)
5. Ride some hi-way speeds (65-75mph) in 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6ths gears...and do some controlled "passing" accelerations in those gears. Start out at 1,800-2,00 rpms and gently roll on the throttle in each of those gears to about 4,000 rpm, then do controlled decels (holding the throttle back on decel), switch gears and do it again. Each gear will change the amount of MAP (or TPS).
6. Ride some off hi-way speeds (35-45 mph zones) in 2nd, 5th and 6th gears.
7. Gently take 1st and 2nd gears to the upper rpm's using controlled accerations (meaning- don't just twist the wick).
Grillfish, That is some Great info. I did not realize it would take that many Smart Tunes to do the job. Smart Tune came out after I did mine and I have never used it myself. Sounds like it works well.
Grillfish, That is some Great info. I did not realize it would take that many Smart Tunes to do the job. Smart Tune came out after I did mine and I have never used it myself. Sounds like it works well.
Some people are better at getting to all the VE table ranges, far left, far right than others. I fall into the category of the less skilled However, it's been a ton of fun and enjoy looking over all the recordings and the data points the VCI records.
Let me just say, I had the TFI for 2 yrs and loved it. Plug n- play and your good. For me, the move to the SEPST last January, was more about learning about how the ECM functions as this was my first EFI bike. I learned a ton of info and it pretty amazing how slight changes to cells in certain tables makes the bike run totaly different (some times worse than before, don't ask how I know .
I did find out last night that I didn't have the 10% ethanol rating and it made a big difference this morning on my VCI record run. The engine seemed WAY quieter but the popping got worse, hoping that with this adjustment some more runs will help. I have a laptop with a harddrive that is solid state so I am thinking about running the record directly to the laptop and leaving it running while riding that way I can record as much data at a time as I want.
Something I did look at today was comparing Engine RPM with the 02 sensor values as voltage and the other o2 value. When reviewing I noticed that every time my rpm drops the values on the two o2 sensors for both front and rear climb significantly.
===============================================
Oh and wouldn't be cool if we had a forum here to post maps too for various tuners? When done I would be more than happy to share my map if it would help someone else get there in the future.
However, it's been a ton of fun and enjoy looking over all the recordings and the data points the VCI records.