2012 Heritage Softail Classic SE Super Tuner Adjustment Help

[phatmike2948]

I installed vance and hines big shot longs on my FLSTC and the naked air v02 air cleaner. I purchased the race tun version of the screaming eagle super tuner and I am trying to get my bike running. Whats driving me nuts is they don't seem to have any stage 1 maps for the 2012 model....

I used filed 357SDR001.dt0 which is the following:

application 2012 softail/dyna
configuration: -1580 SE A/C & Race Exhaust
Components: -SE Air Cleaner and Breather Kit P/N 29440-99D
-race exhaust
-acr disabled

This is the only one of the stored calibrations that does not say stage 2 or stage 4 or whatever. In fact its the only configuration that doesn't have bore or something like that done to engine that I have options for. I can tell my pipes are running hot for sure and I am getting a ton of pop when I let go of the throttle especially if I am downshifting/engine breaking.


I have done 2 records of data and did a little bit of smart tuning but I have not touched any values outside of the front and rear cylinders. I am new to tuning like this but I did buy the training DVD and watched it from start to finish and I am a programmer used to tables and graphs so I at least know how to use the software to some degree. Any help would be AWESOME. I can attach my config if anyone is willing to help.

One of the first things I noticed is that the map seems be to be for a 1580 not a 1690 engine which I have? Also, i installed the quite baffles as well if that makes a difference which I think it does.

 

[Hoople]

One of the first things I noticed is that the map seems be to be for a 1580 not a 1690 engine which I have?

You should be able to go into the "Tuning Setup" => "Engine Displacement" and manually increase the cu/in from 96 to 103.
You did not give the needed details for your popping but I have had very good luck using "deacceleration enleanment" for popping. But it only works for the region of high intake manifold pressures. (release throttle and use engine as brake)
You must push the value pretty heavy. A little bit does not help very much.

 

[phatmike2948]

You should be able to go into the "Tuning Setup" => "Engine Displacement" and manually increase the cu/in from 96 to 103.
You did not give the needed details for your popping but I have had very good luck using "deacceleration enleanment" for popping. But it only works for the region of high intake manifold pressures. (release throttle and use engine as brake)
You must push the value pretty heavy. A little bit does not help very much.

What do you mean I did not give the needed details for your popping? I can give whatever details needed. I could even upload my dt0 file.

Alkso The injector size is set to 3.91 gm/sec. Not sure if thats the correct size, I am trying to find the spec but unable to locate it so far.

 

[Hoople]

What do you mean I did not give the needed details for your popping?

Popping is going to a function of intake manifold vacuum vs RPM. You can have popping in different ways and each requires different tuning.
If you were to run the bike up to 4K RPM in 2nd gear and just chop the throttle (letting the engine be used as a brake) the intake manifold vacuum would peak. If you have popping under those conditions, chances are the deacceleration enleanment adjustment can reduce or eliminate the problem.

But if you performed the same 4K RPM run, chop the throttle but also pulled in the clutch (like what happens when you shift gears) and heard popping,,, the de-acceleration enleanment adjustment may not help much because it focuses on the peak vacuum cells of the map. Pulling in the clutch reduces the vacuum in the intake manifold. Selective cell remapping really would be needed. But since you said it happens a lot when down-shifting, I would say de-acceleration enleanment will help you a bunch. But 1st you have to get the VE tables correct. I have read where several members said the de-acceleration enleanment adjustment made the popping worse. I don't understand that because for me it worked really well.

Like a black box that records valuable data at the time of a plane crash, you can always use the VCI to record the exact conditions the ECM is seeing at the time of popping. Record some data runs using the VCI, noting where and when popping occurs. Review the data on the laptop and see at what vacuum & RPM the popping happens, then fine adjust those cells for A/F ratio.

But above all, you can't have ANY exhaust leaks and your VE tables need to be right otherwise your just spinning your wheels.
Remember that the supplied SE maps are EPA clean, so just loading a canned stage 1 map, will probably leave you still too lean for the most part.

I have never used Smart Tune myself but heard good things about it. I did my bike before Smart Tune was released, so I had to use a wide band exhaust analyzer to adjust my VE tables. You may want to get the cc of your engine correct on the setup page, set the A/F table for 10% ethanol, make a few Smart tune runs, adjust your VE tables, then go back to the A/F map page and fatten up the idle & WOT values. Maybe even convert some cells that are near or around idle from closed loop to open loop. Then work on the popping if you still have any.

Don't know if you have a CAT on your bike but if you do, you can't just fatten up the exhaust mixture because it will overheat & "deep six" the CAT.
With an internally stock engine, I would not be too concerned about the injector size. Look at some of the other stage 1 103c/in engine maps. I am pretty sure the stock injector that comes from the factory is 3.91 gr/sec.

Yes, it is all very time consuming but unless your very lucky, this is how it's done. Using Smart Tune will probably save you a bunch of time.

 

[phatmike2948]

Popping is going to a function of intake manifold vacuum vs RPM. You can have popping in different ways and each requires different tuning.
If you were to run the bike up to 4K RPM in 2nd gear and just chop the throttle (letting the engine be used as a brake) the intake manifold vacuum would peak. If you have popping under those conditions, chances are the deacceleration enleanment adjustment can reduce or eliminate the problem.

But if you performed the same 4K RPM run, chop the throttle but also pulled in the clutch (like what happens when you shift gears) and heard popping,,, the de-acceleration enleanment adjustment may not help much because it focuses on the peak vacuum cells of the map. Pulling in the clutch reduces the vacuum in the intake manifold. Selective cell remapping really would be needed. But since you said it happens a lot when down-shifting, I would say de-acceleration enleanment will help you a bunch. But 1st you have to get the VE tables correct. I have read where several members said the de-acceleration enleanment adjustment made the popping worse. I don't understand that because for me it worked really well.

Like a black box that records valuable data at the time of a plane crash, you can always use the VCI to record the exact conditions the ECM is seeing at the time of popping. Record some data runs using the VCI, noting where and when popping occurs. Review the data on the laptop and see at what vacuum & RPM the popping happens, then fine adjust those cells for A/F ratio.

But above all, you can't have ANY exhaust leaks and your VE tables need to be right otherwise your just spinning your wheels.
Remember that the supplied SE maps are EPA clean, so just loading a canned stage 1 map, will probably leave you still too lean for the most part.

I have never used Smart Tune myself but heard good things about it. I did my bike before Smart Tune was released, so I had to use a wide band exhaust analyzer to adjust my VE tables. You may want to get the cc of your engine correct on the setup page, set the A/F table for 10% ethanol, make a few Smart tune runs, adjust your VE tables, then go back to the A/F map page and fatten up the idle & WOT values. Maybe even convert some cells that are near or around idle from closed loop to open loop. Then work on the popping if you still have any.

Don't know if you have a CAT on your bike but if you do, you can't just fatten up the exhaust mixture because it will overheat & "deep six" the CAT.
With an internally stock engine, I would not be too concerned about the injector size. Look at some of the other stage 1 103c/in engine maps. I am pretty sure the stock injector that comes from the factory is 3.91 gr/sec.

Yes, it is all very time consuming but unless your very lucky, this is how it's done. Using Smart Tune will probably save you a bunch of time.

Hey first of all thanks for the huge reply it helps a lot. Last night I upped the displacement up to 103.1, and lowered the values in the decel denleanment tables by .1. This really helped but I am still getting what i would call more of a bumble than a pop on there. I have been recording with my VFI and I used smart tune which also improved performance. Right now I am going to get about 5 15 minute records with different conditions (got a great interstate run last night) and then do the smart tune again. I have read if you do this over and over the values start changing less and less as you get tuned better.

 

[Hoople]

and lowered the values in the decel denleanment tables by .1.

I am not in front of my laptop but if I remember correctly, don't you want to go "up" with the number? Going up with the number reduces the fuel on de-acceleration. But like I said earlier, reducing fuel for me reduced popping.
(which is opposite of most)

I would hold off on the popping until the VE tables are where you want them. Just getting the VE tables correct will help on popping. Don't forget to set the A/F table for 10% ethanol. That’s worth .3 of 1 ratio point.

 

[phatmike2948]

I am not in front of my laptop but if I remember correctly, don't you want to go "up" with the number? Going up with the number reduces the fuel on de-acceleration. But like I said earlier, reducing fuel for me reduced popping.
(which is opposite of most)

I would hold off on the popping until the VE tables are where you want them. Just getting the VE tables correct will help on popping. Don't forget to set the A/F table for 10% ethanol. That’s worth .3 of 1 ratio point.

Thanks, I will post some pics and sound clips once I have everything running correctly so you can see the fruits of your labor .

 

[orgredneck]

I am not in front of my laptop but if I remember correctly, don't you want to go "up" with the number? Going up with the number reduces the fuel on de-acceleration. But like I said earlier, reducing fuel for me reduced popping.
(which is opposite of most)

I would hold off on the popping until the VE tables are where you want them. Just getting the VE tables correct will help on popping. Don't forget to set the A/F table for 10% ethanol. That’s worth .3 of 1 ratio point.

Hoople,
I have looked all over to adjust for ethanol,can not find anything.
Can you help out a dummy.
Don

 

[Hoople]

Don,
It started in 2010. If your software is earlier than that, it won't be there. You will find it on main A/F ratio map table. You will also see a pull down for your choice of Lambda or conventional numbers (13.2,,14.7 etc)

 

[phatmike2948]

Tried everything suggested here and I am still getting a ton of pop. I have used the auto tune feature a bunch of times and it changes every time I run. I am to the point where I am considering having it done professionally because I don't want to hurt my engine or blue my pipes. Any suggestions? I am just shocked there is not a super tuner web site where people upload there maps.