I had what I thought was a bad VR when I had voltage on all three pins on the stator side of the VR. So I bought a new VR and I still have voltage at the pins so I don't know where to go next. When it's running it's reading 14.30 volts accross the battery so it seems to be charging......any ideas?
2006 Elecrta Glide Classic VR issue
- Thread starter hargun2
- Start date
Hoople
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Don't understand your problem/question.
Having 14.30 volts across the battery while running is Perfect..
It is perfectly normal to see an AC voltage across any two pins of the stator. Don't be too concerned with the AC output voltage of the stator. Trying to measure the AC stator output using an ordinary AC volt meter is meaningless due to the frequency (engine RPM) of the AC sine wave. Check the rectified (DC) voltage at the battery. It sounds like you are good to go...but if you have a specific question regarding the charging system, fire away.
Having 14.30 volts across the battery while running is Perfect..
It is perfectly normal to see an AC voltage across any two pins of the stator. Don't be too concerned with the AC output voltage of the stator. Trying to measure the AC stator output using an ordinary AC volt meter is meaningless due to the frequency (engine RPM) of the AC sine wave. Check the rectified (DC) voltage at the battery. It sounds like you are good to go...but if you have a specific question regarding the charging system, fire away.
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Hoople
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Theoretically you should see no "Direct current" voltages but it would not surprise me if your meter was to read some stray "DC" voltage.
Realize what is actually coming out of the stator. Three (3) pure AC sine waves that are positioned 120 degrees of crankshaft rotation from each other. And if the negative portion of the sine wave Equals the Positive value, they cancel out to zero and your DC meter should read Zero.
But... the only useful measurement (that can be measured w/ a handheld meter) is an "Amplitude Value" or relative value number that is the same across all three phases. I say "Amplitude value" and not a specific number (35 AC volts, 42 AC volts etc) because the voltage amplitude or Amplitude value you read will be a function of Magnet strength and engine speed. Don't worry what the valve is, as long it is the same between pin 1&2, 2&3, and 1&3.
But to answer your question, reading the stator output is a "Go, No Go" test unlike what the DC value is across the battery. That value (14.30v) should be Exactly what you have. Your in Good shape.
One more point... Reading the output of the stator is between ITS WIRES, NOT between any wire and GROUND
Realize what is actually coming out of the stator. Three (3) pure AC sine waves that are positioned 120 degrees of crankshaft rotation from each other. And if the negative portion of the sine wave Equals the Positive value, they cancel out to zero and your DC meter should read Zero.
But... the only useful measurement (that can be measured w/ a handheld meter) is an "Amplitude Value" or relative value number that is the same across all three phases. I say "Amplitude value" and not a specific number (35 AC volts, 42 AC volts etc) because the voltage amplitude or Amplitude value you read will be a function of Magnet strength and engine speed. Don't worry what the valve is, as long it is the same between pin 1&2, 2&3, and 1&3.
But to answer your question, reading the stator output is a "Go, No Go" test unlike what the DC value is across the battery. That value (14.30v) should be Exactly what you have. Your in Good shape.
One more point... Reading the output of the stator is between ITS WIRES, NOT between any wire and GROUND
I have checked the stator and it is performing as per the manual. My only concern now is the VOLTAGE REGULATOR and the check that is spelled out in the manual, I'm using the negitive side of the battery for my ground and I'm not supposed to have DC voltage accross the VR and I do 12.67 volts. The manual says to replace the VR for this condition. ideas????
Hoople
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The voltage regulator has 2 plugs. One plug has 3 pins or wires. That is the plug that goes to the stator.
The AC voltages from the stator go into the Regulator using this connector.
The regulator then converts the 3 AC sine waves to "somewhat" pure DC. That DC output uses the other 2 wire plug (Negative & Positive) and goes directly to the battery.
You should never do any measuring BETWEEN the two connectors. By that I mean taking your voltmeter and reading between Frame ground to any stator wire. The readings you get doing this are meaningless..
If you are doing that or taking measurements between the connectors, your mis-reading the service manual or there is a mis-print in the manual.
If the manual says to do this, point me to it. I will clarify it.
The AC voltages from the stator go into the Regulator using this connector.
The regulator then converts the 3 AC sine waves to "somewhat" pure DC. That DC output uses the other 2 wire plug (Negative & Positive) and goes directly to the battery.
You should never do any measuring BETWEEN the two connectors. By that I mean taking your voltmeter and reading between Frame ground to any stator wire. The readings you get doing this are meaningless..
If you are doing that or taking measurements between the connectors, your mis-reading the service manual or there is a mis-print in the manual.
If the manual says to do this, point me to it. I will clarify it.
With the VR installed and the battery side (2 plug) connector connnected to the VR as per the manual it says to check for voltage at the stator side (3 plug) side of the VR. Then it says to find a ground and check for any voltage on the three pins that are on the VR. I have voltage there and the manual says to replace the VR.
Hoople
Account Removed
Something about what the manual is saying is not correct. Can you scan and upload that page of the manual that says this. What they are asking you to do makes no sense. If I understand correctly...
"With the voltage Regulator installed, all wires/connectors plugged in as normal, and bike running, check for DC voltage at each stator wire to ground and if you have any DC voltage, re-place the voltage regulator."
Well if that is true, I sure would like all the people throwing their "bad" voltage regulators away, to throw them MY way.
"With the voltage Regulator installed, all wires/connectors plugged in as normal, and bike running, check for DC voltage at each stator wire to ground and if you have any DC voltage, re-place the voltage regulator."
Well if that is true, I sure would like all the people throwing their "bad" voltage regulators away, to throw them MY way.
Hoople
Account Removed
Engine Off and Stator connector Unplugged for a Bleed Test. Sorry I miss understood what you were writing. I thought the bike was under power.
So to recap...
You read something like 12.67 volts on the stator pins while the stator connector is detached.
That should not be.
Couple of questions for you:
Is that 12.67 on ALL three pins or just 1 (or 2) of the 3 pins.?
Is the voltage you ready EXACTLY the same voltage that is across the battery at this time. If NOT what is the difference.
So to recap...
You read something like 12.67 volts on the stator pins while the stator connector is detached.
That should not be.
Couple of questions for you:
Is that 12.67 on ALL three pins or just 1 (or 2) of the 3 pins.?
Is the voltage you ready EXACTLY the same voltage that is across the battery at this time. If NOT what is the difference.