yes I'm pretty sure the voltage was the same on all three pins, I did not re-check what it was accross the battery but I can and will. What are you thinking? info you"" I removed and replaced the VR last night because I had voltage on all three pins and unless I got a new bad VR then I have another problem. Thanks for your time
2006 Elecrta Glide Classic VR issue
- Thread starter hargun2
- Start date
Hoople
Account Removed
A peek inside a Black Box - Harley Davidson Community
I would think your VR is similar to this unit shown in above link. Take a look at entry point 1 of this thread, picture #4. For you to have voltage on all three pins, All three FES16GT diodes would have to be blown.
If you read voltage on 1 or 2 pins only, you definitely have a problem for sure with that regulator. If the voltage is about .6 volts less than the battery, you may Not have a problem.
If you had a regulator (prior to this one) that you KNOW was bad/shorted, take off your derby cover to smell the oil. I hope you stator is not gone which took out your new present regulator.
I just can't see how you could have voltage (same as battery) on those pins and you Not have a problem.
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Note: Another member was kind enough to send me a used/blown stator that I was able to take apart. My original schematic shows it to be a WYE configuration, which it is not. It does not change anything except how the stator in my print is wired. HD uses a straight forward parallel wiring setup unlike your everyday cage alternator.
I would think your VR is similar to this unit shown in above link. Take a look at entry point 1 of this thread, picture #4. For you to have voltage on all three pins, All three FES16GT diodes would have to be blown.
If you read voltage on 1 or 2 pins only, you definitely have a problem for sure with that regulator. If the voltage is about .6 volts less than the battery, you may Not have a problem.
If you had a regulator (prior to this one) that you KNOW was bad/shorted, take off your derby cover to smell the oil. I hope you stator is not gone which took out your new present regulator.
I just can't see how you could have voltage (same as battery) on those pins and you Not have a problem.
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Note: Another member was kind enough to send me a used/blown stator that I was able to take apart. My original schematic shows it to be a WYE configuration, which it is not. It does not change anything except how the stator in my print is wired. HD uses a straight forward parallel wiring setup unlike your everyday cage alternator.
same on all three pins but I did not check what it was accross the battery, I will go home and check that out tonight so I can answer your question. Because I had the voltage accross all three pins I bought a new VR and installed it last night with the same result.(voltage accross all three pins 12.67) what are you thinking ????
Hoople
Account Removed
By chance did you check those three pins for voltage (on New Regulator) BEFORE you actually hooked it up and started the bike?
And we are talking about a brand new factory sealed HD regulator purchased from a HD dealership in a New box.
I just can't believe all 3 diodes are blown on a new regulator. Something is just not right.
Maybe later when NewHD74 checks in he may have something to add.
And we are talking about a brand new factory sealed HD regulator purchased from a HD dealership in a New box.
I just can't believe all 3 diodes are blown on a new regulator. Something is just not right.
Maybe later when NewHD74 checks in he may have something to add.
Looking at the schematic that Hoop was kind enough to put together:
I am inclined to agree with Hoop, unlikely all three diodes are blown AND "new" one as well? Problems is a test is a self fulfilling prophesy...you will find only what you set up the test and expect what you are looking for (not necessarily what it actually is...!
We are probably not looking at the same regulator ckt, so need is re-evaluate that the test procedure is correct, for the exact revision and date code of the regulator maybe there is a service bulletin or installation document for that new regulator that should have been provided and checked for modified test procedure.
I am inclined to agree with Hoop, unlikely all three diodes are blown AND "new" one as well? Problems is a test is a self fulfilling prophesy...you will find only what you set up the test and expect what you are looking for (not necessarily what it actually is...!
We are probably not looking at the same regulator ckt, so need is re-evaluate that the test procedure is correct, for the exact revision and date code of the regulator maybe there is a service bulletin or installation document for that new regulator that should have been provided and checked for modified test procedure.
no I did not check for voltage before I stated the bike (not to smart of me) I have now removed all the grounds from the charging system to include the four wires off the two grounding blocks the battery negitve and positive wires. What I wanted to check for is to see if I had continuity through the wires. With all the grounds removed (I think that is all there is) I disconnected the battery side of the VR and stator side and I was checking to see if I was grounded to the frame somewhere and I found on one of the plugs (two prong batt side) i had continuity through one side when I went from the plug to the frame of the bike. If I have all the grounds in that system isolated that would indicate that I'm grounded to the frame , right? So with that in mind working from the front of the bike I cut of the first nylon wire tie and pulled that portion of the harness away from the frame, re-checked for continuity and the was none.....the two plug connector showed some signs of chaffiing from the clamp area but I did n't see any bare wires and I probed the area with VM checking for continiuity and founnd none. I then hooked everything back up with that harness still pulled away from the frame and there was voltage on the stator side of the VR, the pins 12.25, 12.26, 12.27 and across the battery 12.66. Suggestions
Hoople
Account Removed
That is Normal. You Should read continuity from 1 pin to frame ground.
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Would you be able to answer these questions.
1) What is the HD part number of the NEW regulator you purchased.
2) With BOTH voltage regulator connector jacks UN-plugged. Place your Volt/ohm meter in OHMS on 2K ohm scale. Go to the (3) pin connector on the Regulator. Read ohms value between the following pins: (make Sure your meter is in the 2K full scale range)
1 & 2 , 2 & 3 1 & 3. What readings do you get.
(The fact you read a .3 volt drop on the pins vs the battery is Good.)