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'08 Streetglide won't start

Flybum

Flybum

Member
ok folks, I'm new here and just wanted to get some advice and see if I'm on the right track or missing something.

Story goes like this, '08 SG had been sitting for about 7-8 months. "Ran fine" before it was parked and now it won't start.

What I've looked at: diagnostic codes
Are for TPS and TGS range, high and low.
ECM Battery voltage high and low. I have cleared the codes and tried starting again and no codes appeared after trying to start.

I have pulled the injectors, cleaned them and test fired them with a 9v battery. Work great and clean. I hooked the injectors back up the the fuel "rail" and the line to the tank and test fired them with the battery again. So now I know the fuel is getting from the tank to the injectors. Fuel pump works, hear it run when the bike turns on. Next I left the injectors out of the manifold but connected the plugs and cranked the bike over. No fuel came out. That's the fuel side of things.

Now the ignition. The spark plugs are new. I tested resistance of the plug wires and they both are roughly 7.5k ohms. I also tested resistance of the primary (pins C and D) of the coil and got 2 ohms the went primary to secondary (pin C to output to plug wire) and got infinity. Also pulled the plugs from the jugs and connected the wire and coil, grounded the plug to the side of the case and cranked the bike over and neither plug sparked.

So I'm thinking it's a coil. But the (EDIT) injectors are throwing me for a loop since no gas came out when I tried to crank the bike. And no codes for either the EFI system or the coil.

So what's the consensus?
 
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Could be the coil, how many miles on the scoot? Check and clean the crank position sensor. They can load up with metal shavings and will affect the spark.

A weak battery or low charged battery will also affect the spark.


You can bench test the coil as well, read here.

If you want to "bench" test a coil, remove wires, attach a hot 12 volt to the battery (batt, +, etc.) terminal. Then attach a wire to the ignition (ign) terminal and touch ground and remove. Should throw a spark from the high tension lead with each application of 12v and removal. The ground wire basically imitates the function of the ignition points/module. If the high tension lead terminal is gapped a reasonable amount from the engine, there should be a bright white spark. Weak or orange spark indicates (low voltage...or) bad coil output.
 
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CRCKR said:
The fuel pump can run but still be broken... check the pressure on that as well.
Click to expand...
Is there a poor mans way to check pump press? Other than timing how long after a primes that it has to be primed again? Don't have a press gauge. After it primed I tested both injectors with a 9 V battery and had good spray pattern with a fine mist. But they don't spray when cranking the engine.
 
Take a look here.

If the CKP sensor goes bad on your engine which is located up front by the oil filter, there has to be a way to keep the engine running so it can get you home. This is a magnetic switch that picks up an impulse from serrations that pass the switch in the edge of the flywheel. This switch is also a target for metallic fuzz that circulates in the engine oil just like what you find on the drain plugs when doing a service.

It's purpose is to send data to the ECM about the engine speed which interprets this and is used for proper data output for various purposes.

You will notice slight hesitation just off idle and poor running as well as poor gas mileage.

The bike will go into "limp home mode" if this happens while riding and it does not always set a code. It has also been responsible for a no spark/no start condition when they fail.

That means you will be able to get home running even if it is at a much reduced performance state.

The ECM is smart enough to look elsewhere for RPM data like the M.A.P. sensor which tells the ECM the state of intake, which can loosely be used for firing timing.

As with all sensors, age can effect their performance and this may be a gradual decrease until one day you realize that it just isn't running as good as it use to and you notice a hesitation off idle.

This sensor is the one that is in the way when you change the oil filter.

To test this sensor...

The CKP sensor has a B+ power supply, a ground, and a signal circuit.

As the crankshaft rotates, the wheel teeth interrupt a magnetic field produced by a magnet within the sensor. The sensor's internal circuitry detects this and produces a signal which the ECM reads. The ECM uses this signal to accurately measure crankshaft velocity which is a variable used in order to detect misfire, spark and, fueling.

Looking at your service manual find the wire that goes to the B+ (battery) Measure from this wire to ground for the DC supply voltage. Measurement should be taken on the sensor side of the connector. Ground connection as well.

Do this test at rest and also with the engine spinning. A loose connection could break as the motor shakes.

If you have voltage present with the key on and with the engine spinning move the positive meter lead to the Signal wire. This is usually marked R for Red . With the engine spinning you should see a voltage signal on that wire.

You should measure the signal at the sensor connector and the ECM to verify it is reaching the ECM.

More test data here...
 
Thanks for all the input. I'll get to testing and let y'all know what I come up with. Bike is at a buddy's house so it might be a few days before I get a final answer. Just don't want to waste money throwing parts at it.
 
Flybum said:
Thanks for all the input. I'll get to testing and let y'all know what I come up with. Bike is at a buddy's house so it might be a few days before I get a final answer. Just don't want to waste money throwing parts at it.
Click to expand...

Everything suggested is free.
 
Flybum said:
Is there a poor mans way to check pump press? Other than timing how long after a primes that it has to be primed again? Don't have a press gauge. After it primed I tested both injectors with a 9 V battery and had good spray pattern with a fine mist. But they don't spray when cranking the engine.
Click to expand...

Not sure where you can get the gauge but you need to maintain at least 55 PSI.
 
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