'06 FXDLI turn signal issues please advise!!

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by SHREK MN, Jun 25, 2012.

  1. SHREK MN

    SHREK MN Member

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    Recently purchased this 06 FXDLI for my wife. (she put 13,000 miles on a sporty, figured she earned it) anyway, the gentleman i got it from didn't run turn signals. He gave me the take off signals to reinstall. before install it was noticed at every start up 6 flashes on the indicators basically indicating a code. the codes were RH/LH signal open. I didnt think much of that as the signals were removed and they were in fact open. Codes were cleared and signals were installed. Aftermarket filament type signals were installed. (same resistance as oem filament style) the only difference being the front ones are a two wire signal. I didnt think running lights were needed. Can not get signals to operate whatsoever. i have proper voltage on the running lights wires, but none on signal wires front or back. and same LH/RH signal open codes are stored. I have no opens in circuits to my knowledge. I hooked front signals to running lights wire just to test, and fuse blows for lighting. there are no shorts in new signals as i tested for that immediately. kinda stumped here...
    any help would be appreciated, Shrek.
     
  2. 90FXRS

    90FXRS Junior Member Contributor

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    Welcome to the forum. The first thing I would do is if the previous owner gave you the originals I'd put them on and see if they work and the codes disappear. Do you have a manual to verify the wiring is correct and the previous owner didn't do something that might cause issues?

    More will respond with their advice. Give them time and please keep everyone posted as to what you find.
     
  3. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Remove the TSM connector. Looking at the wiring connector,
    Pin 12 should be a Black wire.
    Pin 5 should be a Violet wire.
    Pin 6 should be a Brown wire.

    Using your ohm meter (with key OFF) measure between
    Pin 12 & 5 => Should be 2 or 3 ohms.
    Pin 12 & 6 => Should be 2 or 3 ohms.

    Do you get those ohm readings. If the TSM sees no load on wire #5 (left side turn signal bulbs) or wire #6 (right side turn signal bulbs), it will throw those codes.
     
  4. SHREK MN

    SHREK MN Member

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    retested resistance on each new signal= .9 ohms ea. respectively.
    tested resistance between pin 12-5 = .3 ohms
    tested resistance between pin 12-6 = .3 ohms
     
  5. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Those numbers sound about right. You certainly have a load on each branch circuit and it's not "open" as a B1121 & B1122 would indicate.. You never mentioned the actual DTC code numbers you were getting and I will assume they were B1121 & B1122. You also never mentioned if you had a TSM or a TSSM and will assume a TSM.

    With the TSM unplugged and ignition ON, do you read 12v on pin #1 (brown/gray wire) of the TSM plug?
    If you have power on pin #1 of the TSM harness, and the codes you were getting were B1121 & B1122,, it sounds to me like the TSM is bad.

    Follow these steps if you want to perform an additional confirmation test just for the heck of it,, => With the TSM is still unplugged and ignition key OFF,, if you were to apply 12v to the violet wire of the TSM connector, both left turn signal bulbs along with the dash indicator should light up. The same holds true for applying 12v to the brown wire. The right side group of 3 bulbs should light up.

    I don't believe there is a short in the wiring, but the battery power you apply for this confirmation test must be fused (5 amp) just incase there is some kind short in the turn signal wiring. The instantaneous turn on surge current for each group of 3 bulbs is quite high, so in order not to burn or damage the crimp terminal in the TSM wire harness connector, first connect one end of a piece of fused test wire to the violet wire (pin 5) of the TSM connector. Then connect the other end of test wire to the positive of the battery. Doing it this way keeps the current arc away from the fragile gold plated crimp connector.

    All 3 left side bulbs (front, rear, dash indicator) should light up when you apply battery power to the violet wire. Doing the same with the brown wire (pin 6), should make the 3 right side bulbs light up.

    If each group of bulbs light up, the code numbers were B1121 B1122, and you had B+ on terminal 1 when you tested it, I would say your TSM is toast.
     
  6. SHREK MN

    SHREK MN Member

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    I will do the tests you suggest when i get back to the house. You indicated a reading of 2-3 ohms was specs.
    I indicated my readings were .3 ohms (three tenths) i am confused a little on this. Maybe a little dense here, does these numbers still sound right to you?
     
  7. SHREK MN

    SHREK MN Member

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    codes were b1121 and b1122 yes you are correct. Also yes it is a TSM.
    my aplolgies for the lack of information.
     
  8. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    You said in entry point #1 that your using "aftermarket filament type signals" but you did not specify what number bulb type you were using. I just took a guess at what a good value would be on a cold filament. But then when you came back with an actual measured number of .9 ohms per/lamp (but without a bulb type number), I looked up what a standard 1156 single element bulb would be. Turns out a 1156 is right at 1 ohm when cold. So putting two bulbs in parallel. you would have .5 ohms. Then add to that the dash indicator and it would be something less than .5 ohms. Since you measured BOTH sides as being exactly equal in value, I will assume they both can't have identically shorts or identical problems. (yes, I know they "could" but probably don't). Adding to that, there are DTC codes (B1123 & B1124) for too much current flow or dead shorts and you don't have those codes. That is why I now think the .3 is probably a safe number. It is pretty close to the .5 of what two 1156 bulbs would be. Besides, if it was not a safe number (a value too low), a good TSM would have thrown a B1123 & B1124 which did not happen..As long as you fuse the test lead wire & follow the instructions like I explained earlier, you should have no problems with testing it, even if you have shorts within your wiring.
     
  9. SHREK MN

    SHREK MN Member

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    thanks for the clarification. I can't thank you enough for the guidance on this matter. with a username like Hoople, you wouldn't by chance be from the upper red river valley? just an observation.
    Shrek
     
  10. SHREK MN

    SHREK MN Member

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    Well another evening passed with dead ends.
    Performed all tests as suggested, negative results.
    power present at pin 1 of tsm harness with key on or off, matters not.
    made fused jumper wire for powering up pins 5-and 6. each test fuse blows.
    disconnected rear lighting harness and repeat test, same results
    disconnect connector in neck for tach/speedo while leaving rear harness disconnected and repeat test, same results. ran out of fuses... extreme frustration setting in.