one other thing i failed to mention, the two sources i have for wiring diagrams show the front signals with the common black blue violet and black blue brown setup. the two leads i have are black blue violet on both sides. i asked a tech at local harley shop and he claims that isnt uncommon to see. i found that strange. other than the fore mentioned wiring it appears wiring hasnt been tampered with.
'06 FXDLI turn signal issues please advise!!
- Thread starter SHREK MN
- Start date
Hoople
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Which connector is that? Looking at this attachment, are you saying you disconnected connector 20B (to main harness)
I don't follow you. If you have "black blue violet", you have 3 leads not two. ?
When you look inside of the new sockets, is there 1 contact point or two. Is the FRAME of the fixture, common to any of the wires or is the bulb completely isolated from the mounting fixture?
rear harness i disconnected would be the 7a i believe.
yes connector i was refering to would be the 20a for the speedo/tach.
it is located i neck/frame up front and relatively easy to get to. i thought it wise to start eliminating different branches of the harness to pinpoint issue.
My terminology with the word "leads" was a poor choice. the two harness' that come out of the frame to each front signal are a 3 wire harness. they both have the black blue violet wire configuration to each of the front signals.
the signals i installed are a two wire filament style turn signal. Basically the same fixture as the stock rear signals only smaller in size and basicalliy the same load charactoristics. I didnt believe it to be a big deal to not have operational running lights up front. simply thought i could exclude the use of the blue wire on front turn signals. having said all that the new turn signals are not the issue in my opinion. each fixture can be isolated (wires unhooked from bike lighting harness) and tested for operation and they operate like they should without any issues. I would like to find the 31rb/31lb connectors. i assume they are located somewhere in the frame backbone? this little bike is wearing me down.
yes connector i was refering to would be the 20a for the speedo/tach.
it is located i neck/frame up front and relatively easy to get to. i thought it wise to start eliminating different branches of the harness to pinpoint issue.
My terminology with the word "leads" was a poor choice. the two harness' that come out of the frame to each front signal are a 3 wire harness. they both have the black blue violet wire configuration to each of the front signals.
the signals i installed are a two wire filament style turn signal. Basically the same fixture as the stock rear signals only smaller in size and basicalliy the same load charactoristics. I didnt believe it to be a big deal to not have operational running lights up front. simply thought i could exclude the use of the blue wire on front turn signals. having said all that the new turn signals are not the issue in my opinion. each fixture can be isolated (wires unhooked from bike lighting harness) and tested for operation and they operate like they should without any issues. I would like to find the 31rb/31lb connectors. i assume they are located somewhere in the frame backbone? this little bike is wearing me down.
Hang in there - if anyone on the planet can get you through this, it's our resident electrical expert - Hoople!!!
Hoople
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Hoople
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If you have located connector 20A/20B that is half the battle. Disconnecting the dash indicators is important. On my 2009 FXDL they are LED, not tungsten. The service manual does not say if yours are led or tungsten. You don't know the history of the bike. If they are led they could be dead shorted. Anything is possible.
Disconnect them until you resolve the short circuit issue.
Remove all 4 turn signal bulbs but leave the sockets connected to the wiring harness. Disconnect 20A from 20B. Using your ohm meter check for infinity on pin 5 & 6 of the TSM connector. If you read infinity, install just 1 bulb and drive that side (left or right) with battery power at the TSM connector using your fused test lead. The bulb should light without blowing the fuse. If you blow a fuse, something is wrong with the aftermarket sockets or the way they are wired.
You first have to be able to manually drive the lights to come on using the fused jumper wire. Then you can move on to the TSM issue and the error codes.
I decided to fab up a couple of test sockets with 1156 bulbs. Disconnected installed signals and tested each side with test lamps. All is good. All four aftermarket signals are faulty. Thank you for your wisdom, and patience.
Hoople, you are a huge asset to this forum.
Thanks again!
Shrek
Hoople, you are a huge asset to this forum.
Thanks again!
Shrek