Valve train noise

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by RED BENSON, Dec 30, 2009.

  1. RED BENSON

    RED BENSON Member

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    I am sure this is an old question, but as i am new to harley davidson , has anyone came up with a fix for the noisy valve lifter, or valve train noise in the twin cam engine???????


    Thanks red
     
  2. HarryB737

    HarryB737 Junior Member

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    My Twin Cam isn't noisey...Yes I can hear the valve train, but it doesn't sound out of the ordinary. Are you sure you don't have a problem? If it's something just developing that seems different IE lifter colapsing or loose timing chain, you might want to check into it before it really gets expensive.
     
  3. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member Contributor

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    FIRST OFF- LOOK AT THE NECK PLATE ON THE FRAME OF BIKE AND TELL ME THE BUILD DATE....VERY important!!! IF ON or BEFORE (earlier) than DEC.15, 1999.... I'll talk about that THEN.


    How many miles on the 2000 TC?
    how long have YOU owned the bike...
    service recorder on bike?
    what mods. have been done?
    WHAT TYPE OF VALVE NOISE AND HOW LONG HAS IT BEEN THERE?

    please get me the information and I'll give you a GOOD report about the FACTS.

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  4. RED BENSON

    RED BENSON Member

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    Thanks for the reply BUBBIE. the bike was mfg April /00. It has 50k on odometer. I have put 350 miles on it since i bought it . any mods are unknown,but my son who has had a harley for some time seems to think it has none. I put a new set of lifters in from a shop in fort worth that are supposed to hold more oil. may have helped some what. has Royal Purple 20-50 syn oil and HD filter.Noise seems to be directly from the lifter covers.rockers seem to be in good shape. Cannot get any info from the guy I bought it from. He just says it has always been serviced by HD Dealer.

    Thanks again

    Red

    sounds like bad lifters in a v/8 Chevy
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2009
  5. rugg

    rugg New Member

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    I have the same noise and it gets louder the hotter the motor gets and I took my primary cover off to replace my stador and I found something I did not want to see there was metal in my oil and the chain has been rubbing the inner primary housing and the clutch spring retainer ring was rubbing the primary cover at the durby cover I only have 14000 miles on bike I hope this is not your problem.
     
  6. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member Contributor

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    IT MAY BE one of the NEW lifters IS BAD...


    WELL HAPPY DAYS FOR YOU!!! on the model BUILT date

    THAT BUILD DATE tells me that the NEWER STYLE ROLLER BEARING has been put in by the HARLEY people (second 1/2 of year and up)...

    There is a SE lifter B that people talk about... a HD part.. as being GOOD....
    I would put a oil pressure gauge on it to check pressure.. IT should not go below 8/12 lbs at an idle when HOT... If it quits tapping when IDLE is lifted up around 1500RPM or so
    ,,, I would say not enough oil SO CHECK with a pressure gauge...

    I had a 2000 early year and did a LOT of changes THAT HARLEY NEEDED to do BEFORE they did on the newer bikes 2007 and newer...

    YOU can change a lot of things NOW that COST me a SMALL fortune back when I changed out stuff..

    HD(99 thru 2006) didn't have the BEST oil pump and the RETURN of (sump) oil didn't get pumped back into the oil tank and LINGERED inside the CRANK HOUSING and was a main culprit for the FOAMING at the air cleaner and thru out the engine....
    too much oil in the sump area causes a BIG DRAG on the performance of your motor.. that is why the new style pump offered by HD.

    HD HAS a good KIT out NOW that CORRECTS the problems with oil pump, chain drive cams, and the tensioners..

    the newer system IS NOT PERFECT but cost about a 3/4 + LESS than i paid for the improvements on mine...

    IF I had a 2000/06 bike again I would go with the FULL HD KIT and get the BETTER oil pump, newer style cam support plate and the HYDRAULIC cam tensioners...(last longer and trouble WORRY free from the SHOES that destruct and cause DAMAGE)
    THAT KIT would make your bike RIGHT UP TO DATE with the NEWER style of today...(better oil flow and LESS noise like the old style oil pump)

    If you ever decide to convert, YOU can get a lot of information and help from KNOWLEDGEABLE people on this site..

    My FEULING oil pump and lifters were 450$ along with another 300 or so for the DELKRON cam support plate and 750$+ for the 570SS gear drive cams i went with...

    DID you go with adjustable push rods and were they adjusted right? MAYBE check that first...

    HOPE some of what I spouted off on can Help you..

    signed....BUBBIE
    also look at another guys problem under ENGINE KNOCKING by Chase1
    i think he has the BAD bearing...
    maybe this time...
     
  7. RED BENSON

    RED BENSON Member

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    Thanks Bubbie. What you say makes more sense than any in what info I have been gathering. I rebuilt auto engines for 50 years but never this type , so it is a learning experence. Auto Machine Shop. It has from the beginning felt like an oil problem.

    Yes I tried adj push rods but with the Johnson Tappets I bought they recomended stock.

    Thanks againg for the input

    Red
     
  8. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    Red,

    Welcome to HDTalking and to HD world. You will find a BUNCH of great info in the self-help pages, and in the heads of your fellow members.

    Since this bike in new to you, and its history is unknown, the FIRST thing I would do is to pop the nose cone off (cam cover) and inspect the spring-loaded tensioners. These things are a disaster waiting to happen.

    You can get the nose cone off pretty easily without having to take off the front pipe if you cut down an Allen wrench enough to get between the pipe and the lower 1/4-20 socket head cap screws securing the cover. Replace the gasket when you open it up, and be ready for the residual oil to flow out of the cam chest once you loosen the screws.

    The outside tensioner is handy (or eye-bally if you catch my drift), but you will need a cheap plastic dental mirror or something like that to get your eye-ball on the inside one.

    Bubbie has a bunch of good info above if you decide to swap out your cam drive system to the current configuration. If so, drop us a line. There are a few of us here that have done this and can point you in some good direction.

    TQ
     
  9. BUBBIE

    BUBBIE Well-Known Member Contributor

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    Are the push rods adjustable NOW or are the stock ORIGINAL ones in place?

    Did they have to PULL the rocker-boxes to install the push rods?

    If so that is a waist of $$ in labor.... I took a big bolt cutter and turned over engine until valve was at closed position and carefully SNIPPED the stock p-rod out... then replaced with hd scrm'n eagle adjustables...

    I find that the adjustable ones are much better and you don't have to pull the top off each time. then you can remove the old lifter(s) and go from there when need be....

    The other thing ..... if the cams ARE NOT the stock ones??? some of the cams have a lot of noise from a steep ramp on and off, making a lot of noise...
    If your exhaust is not loud YOU WILL hear a lot of noise from a HD TC...
    IT'S JUST THE NATURE OF THE BEAST.....
    IT DOES SOUND LIKE A JOHN DEERE.....

    signed....BUBBIE
     
  10. RED BENSON

    RED BENSON Member

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    Thanks guys, I am going to do a little more checking as has been stated. If I do decide to change out is there a HD Part no. for the kit as I will have to go quite a way to a HD Dealer. No I took the adj out and my son did cut the first install.

    Thanks again Seems like some very nice folks on this board

    RED