The nightmare ~ front end ~ endplay . . .

Discussion in 'Touring Models' started by schooner, Mar 28, 2011.

  1. schooner

    schooner Member

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    Hey Guy (Newbie In Lots Of Trouble)

    I'm just spinning my front wheel. And its got LOTS OF ENDPLAY; WOBBLE call it whatever you want.

    Man, I tried everything to put that front wheel on WITHOUT ENDPLAY and its just NOT HAPPENING :newsmile055:

    Now I'm really screwed; got the bike on jack stands with no rear wheel either :(


    I tried switching spacers but the both front ones are the SAME SIZE :small3d031:
    That NUT on the Left Side of the wheel has been torqued to spec 55-60lbs.

    I've taken the front wheel off so many times to try an figure out what heck I'm doing wrong. And I can SEE IT. That GAP won't go away.

    If I puch the speedp side to right; it all looks good where the speed is. However, upon doing that I look over on the Left Side of the wheel that there's a LARGE GAP.

    There's one picture there where the speedometer was hook-up correctly - THAT'S BEFORE i TAKE IT APART FOR THE NEW TIRE TO GO ON - I should've left it alone.

    Now I got to call the m/c mechanic to see if he will come over the house and put my two wheels on. He the guy who Pressed in my Races and put Shims in the hub.

    Tell me what you think of these pics I took today 3/28/11
    HELP :(
     

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  2. karlsbike

    karlsbike Active Member

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    Hi Scooner
    Don't know what year/model scoot you've got, but I see it's an Evo.
    On my '91 tourer the speedo drive is on the left hand side...
    Anyway, what is not clear to me is where your gap is - is your internal spacer (bearing spacer) in place & correctly sized?

    To find out, with wheel off put axle in from RHS and put your spacer on from the LHS. Push the axle RHS and the LHS spacer together by hand.
    Now do you feel any gap/play? If you feel a significant play that you can't tighten up by pushing them harder together, your bearing spacer is too long.
    If it feels ok (you may be able to feel the slightest play and still be ok), mount the wheel initially leaving the axle clamp nuts loose until the axle nut is tightened to spec. Then tighten those two nuts, and you should be good to go.
    If your bearing spacer is too long, you need to trim it down/get a new one. Note that it can only be mounted/dismounted by removing one of the oil seals and bearing.
    Good luck
     
  3. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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  4. schooner

    schooner Member

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    The Best I Can Explain It 'cause I'm A NEWBIE @ This

    Hey Karisbike :)

    My bike is: 1985 H-D of course Electra Glide Classic. 1340cc's

    My m/c mechanic press in the races on both wheels. He grease everything up and put the SHIMS in behind the race; took a measurement of: .006 that's the limite for my bike i.e. .002 - .006 I must say he did go over the .006 somewhat. see picture.

    I'll try to answer you questions as best I can.

    In the attachment of left & right side of my front wheel. That's the way it should look when its on the front forks ~ AND IT DOESN'T !!!

    My ans. to this question of yours, " what is not clear to me is where your gap is - is your internal spacer (bearing spacer) in place & correctly sized?

    Ans. When I torque-up the nut on the left side and the speedo is in place on the right side of my front fork. I CAN MOVE THE WHEEL BACK & FORTH EASILIER ABOUT A GOOD 1/2in. GAP or ENDPLAY as they say.

    And I'm no expert by far :newsmile026: ~ You and I know that AIN'T GOOD.
    The SHIMS are in properly; but I don't know if they're are: Two few or Too many ? ? ? The m/c mechanic had a mircomentor on the SHIMS over and over again. I don't know if he put in back of the bearing the RIGHT AMOUNT.

    I'M CALLING HIM after I finish posting to you.

    Man, what a NIGHT MARE !

    I'm stuck with me Harley on jack stands on my back patio and can't bring it in to the shop, only the wheels AGAIN & AGAIN; he's got to fix this HORROR !


     

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  5. schooner

    schooner Member

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    Re: The Best I Can Explain It 'cause I'm A NEWBIE @ This

    Hey Guy

    I don't understand what you said here:

    " To find out, with wheel off put axle in from RHS and put your spacer on from the LHS. Push the axle RHS and the LHS spacer together by hand. "

    My wheel is off the bike O.K. I got that right.
    Put my original aluminum spacer on the RHSide & the LHSide on the other. Then take my axle without the speedo on the axle and run it thru the wheel hub to the other side.

    O.K. I got that.

    Now, what do you want me to do with my both hands. Squeez both spacer together ?
    Just don't get it ?

    It sounds and reads simply when you say it BUT I JUST DON'T SEE WHAT YOU WANT ME TO DO ?
     
  6. Dr.Evil

    Dr.Evil Junior Member

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    Re: The Best I Can Explain It 'cause I'm A NEWBIE @ This

    If you can't push the bearings in tight with your hands then the (spacer) is too long, which sounds like the problem. You may need a shorter spacer and thicker shims.
     
  7. R_W_B

    R_W_B Senior Member

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    Wow all this is interesting. With my luck, not looking forward to someday pulling my front wheel.

    Schooner let us know how or what it was, once you get it resolved.
     
  8. BOBFLHTC

    BOBFLHTC Active Member

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  9. Dr.Evil

    Dr.Evil Junior Member

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    Good information BOB.

    So far we all missed the obligatory, Get yourself a manual ASAP
     
  10. BOBFLHTC

    BOBFLHTC Active Member

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    The parts manual is just a great tool. It shows the breakdown of all the parts and helps you see how its all put togeather. It also helps when ordering parts. When I call the dealer I just give them the number instead of trying to describe it or I bring the book with me. I also found the original factory manual a while back. I have a Clymers manual and the original owners booklet too. Of course this site is a big help too with the opinion of those who have been doing it for a while. Best of luck - Bob