ol55forever
Member
I believe that is a good lesson for the proper use of a torque wrench. What do you think?:31:
Stripped Torx screw on Primary
- Thread starter bamacfa
- Start date
Porter
Junior Member
I would concur with using a torque wrench but from what I have read about the reason torx head bolts/screws were designed, it appears to be to increase the tool life of tip during "cam out" upon reaching a specified torque.
If you have a clean threads and a proper torque setting, most styles of fastener are not a problem. I think torx heads are simply an inferior design when it comes to working on even mildly neglected bolts or screws. After several washes and heating cycles, dried salts and residue can get into the threads and dry, making removal more difficult.
I know most of the typical issue is using the wrong torx tip and over torquing, but just by design for maintenance (not assembly at a plant) why would you not use an Allen Head design?
A 12 point bolt is more fragile with respect to "rounding over" than a six point. I am not an engineer but it just does not make sense to me. For me, every time I have to take out a torx bolt or screw, I replace it with an allen head design of similar finish and grade. Less tools you need to carry as well.
If you have a clean threads and a proper torque setting, most styles of fastener are not a problem. I think torx heads are simply an inferior design when it comes to working on even mildly neglected bolts or screws. After several washes and heating cycles, dried salts and residue can get into the threads and dry, making removal more difficult.
I know most of the typical issue is using the wrong torx tip and over torquing, but just by design for maintenance (not assembly at a plant) why would you not use an Allen Head design?
A 12 point bolt is more fragile with respect to "rounding over" than a six point. I am not an engineer but it just does not make sense to me. For me, every time I have to take out a torx bolt or screw, I replace it with an allen head design of similar finish and grade. Less tools you need to carry as well.
flh canuck
Active Member
Torx fasteners started showing up on vehicles back in the 80's when I was working as a professional mechanic.
I always assumed that FoMoCo started using them because they like it when mechanics have to buy new tools.....
I always assumed that FoMoCo started using them because they like it when mechanics have to buy new tools.....
billnapabill
Active Member
The failure of Torx screws can be attributed to a lot of things. The sizes are very close and are easily mistakeable, if you use too small a size it'll round off the fitting and ya got a problem, some of the Torx tools are suspect, they break or strip and ya got a problem, the ones that open like a jackknife, wobble, and don't let you get enough force to turn the screw so they strip the hole and ya got a problem. And sometimes you use the wrong Lok Tight (Red Death) and they won't come out.
Here's a few tips,
Keep trying sizes until one is too big and then go down a size. Get yourself some GOOD tools. Snap-on, MAC or Sears Craftsman, not Harbor Freight or AutoZone and buy a socket set type of Torx, you can get more leverage and control.
Lastly, thank GOD HD uses a soft metal in those screws and watch out if your thinking about replaceing them with something "Better", Think about what kind of problems you'll have with harder screws..........I can see stripped screw hole threads, broken off gaulded screws and all kinds of trouble. Oh and use the Right Thread lock..
Here's a few tips,
Keep trying sizes until one is too big and then go down a size. Get yourself some GOOD tools. Snap-on, MAC or Sears Craftsman, not Harbor Freight or AutoZone and buy a socket set type of Torx, you can get more leverage and control.
Lastly, thank GOD HD uses a soft metal in those screws and watch out if your thinking about replaceing them with something "Better", Think about what kind of problems you'll have with harder screws..........I can see stripped screw hole threads, broken off gaulded screws and all kinds of trouble. Oh and use the Right Thread lock..
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spartacus55
Active Member
dang where do you live that they charge 150 per hour labor
Sorry to hear you guys have all the trouble. Do understand that the cases are Aluminum and your fasteners may be stainless (good), chromium plated (fair) or cadmium plated (bad). In military equipment, especially in aircraft, mobile and naval applications, cadmium plated fasteners are even BANNED.
Reason: two dissimilar metals especially cadmium corrode and allow metal transfer/seizure (sound like a battery?)... well when you add water and slurry of grease, grime, road salts...yes it is.
So if you must change your fasteners, do observe torque specifications and materials used, high up on your selection process. Use a good sealer OR antiseize compound to prevent water intrusion and you should be fine. The derby cover is not one of those critical fastener applications, but does require "prudent selection" being as it comes on and off as part of the routine service regimen.
Reason: two dissimilar metals especially cadmium corrode and allow metal transfer/seizure (sound like a battery?)... well when you add water and slurry of grease, grime, road salts...yes it is.
So if you must change your fasteners, do observe torque specifications and materials used, high up on your selection process. Use a good sealer OR antiseize compound to prevent water intrusion and you should be fine. The derby cover is not one of those critical fastener applications, but does require "prudent selection" being as it comes on and off as part of the routine service regimen.
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whatyardwork
Banned
Newhd as always is spot on.For some time now a standard has been set for thr grading of bolts.That cant be said for the choice of tools chosen to service the hardware holding your bike together.Or the materials those bolts enter.
Doesnt matter if its an allen a torx a twelve point or a torx plus {beating a dead horse}.Sometimes youre better off paying the $70 to the guy who already has the tools and expierience.
Doesnt matter if its an allen a torx a twelve point or a torx plus {beating a dead horse}.Sometimes youre better off paying the $70 to the guy who already has the tools and expierience.
bamacfa
Member
Thanks for the replies guys. It was the primary and not the derby cover. I bought a grab it and that didnt work so I made a slot in the bolt and used a flat head but couldnt budge it and finally put a impact driver to it and it came loose. To answer the question about where I live, I live in dothan al and the dealship charges 70 buck an hour here. I realize that is much better than some places but I wasnt going to pay that to remove one screw. At any rate the bike is complete again without a stripped screw!