Stator Replacement

Discussion in 'General Harley Davidson Topic' started by 01dynaglide, Mar 8, 2009.

  1. 01dynaglide

    01dynaglide Junior Member

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    When to Daytona and had a GREAT time but my stator went out on my bike. I had the HD dealer run a charging system test and that is my problem. I figured I could save $300 and change it myself but I can not find anything in my manual. I have a 2001 dyna super glide 88 CI. I know I have to pull the primary case off to get to it. My question is what all else has to come off and how big of a task is this. The guy at the HD dealer said it is about a 3 hour job. Thanks for the help.
     
  2. Dr. Dolittle

    Dr. Dolittle Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    I can't answer your question but I'm glad to hear you had a good time down there!
     
  3. Bud White

    Bud White Well-Known Member Retired Moderators

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    outer primary cover / Clutch and primary chain / Compensator you may or may not have to pull the inner cover if so there is more to come off.

    Best thing you can do is buy the Factory Manual for your Bike it will tell you everything you have to do
     
  4. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    Bud's got it. Get the book!!

    Have to drain the primary, pull the cover, take out the compensator nut, and the clutch basket nut (lefty), release the tensioner and remove the compensator, clutch and chain as a group. Then pull the rotor off the drive shaft. They have a tool to do this, but I just thread bolts in the threaded holes and yank the rotor off with a couple of large lock-jaws. Replace the stator (see the manual). Put it all back to gether in the reverse order.

    I would also suggest replacing the voltage regulator. If not now, my experience indicates that it will fail shortly.

    TQ
     
  5. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    This will give you an idea of what's involved.

    Stator Replacement - Harley Davidson Community
     
  6. 01dynaglide

    01dynaglide Junior Member

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    Thanks for the help guys. I have the factory manual but can not find how to replace it. It shows the stator on the wiring diagram but no where on how to replace it. I'll have to look through the book again. Thanks.
     
  7. jel123

    jel123 Active Member

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    The stater is easy to get out once you pull the primary ive changed a few and never had to pull the inner primary but tis tight remember the clutch has to come off ***reverse threads*** if you have air&impact its not a bad job without its tough good luck,jel
     
  8. TQuentin1

    TQuentin1 Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    BE VERY CAREFUL USING AN IMPACT WRENCH ON THE COMPENSATOR NUT. In fact I would say, DON'T DO IT. Remember the crank is a pressed fit on the pin, and there is already enough to worry about with that!!

    TQ
     
  9. Clayvis

    Clayvis Account Removed

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    What he said on the impact (rattle) wrench. Besides the crank, I've heard you can shake a magnet loose on the rotor. Then you have to replace that too. Get a long breaker bar (and extension pipe if necessary). Have a buddy step on the rear brake pedal and then have at it. Might have to use heat too if somebody before you went nuts with the loctite. Three hours sounds a bit steep too, unless the inner primary has to come off.
     
  10. fin_676

    fin_676 Experienced Member Staff Member Moderator Contributor

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    my bikes are a bit older than yours but find the compansator nut comes off esier once heated
    the other problem you might find if most torque wrenches dont left click so its a bit of a problem getting the correct tension on the clutch nut when you tighten it
    you need a bidirectional torque wrench

    Brian