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ooheritage

Active Member
hello to everyone, my question is I just got appointed Road-guard recently and I'm not sure where to go if anywhere on the cams. I know that most of you know the job of a Road-guard,(cruising through town, may have to go 40 then up to 55 to get to the next intersection, even at highway speeds may have to jump out and go from 70 mph to 90 mph to protect the group) so with a stock everything 2000 TC88 made before Dec. of 1999, what kind of rpm range would I want? Do I buy cams mid to high range?

Thanks for any input you may have.
 
Mostly stock TC-88 stage one, A/C,and exhaust. I run, those speeds easily.... shouldn't be a problem.
You WANT to mod your engine? then like Smitty said...do it for yourself.

Generally.... I like to run between 2500-3000 RPMs... this is a "sweet spot" on my engine. Usually, I'll be a gear down, and revs up... if I need to hustle, a twist of the wrist, is enough, and there's a gear ready....
on the interstates, my heavyweight RG, will jump from 70 to 90 with no problem
 
I already have V & H pipes so the SE or AN big breather ought to be good enough, with maybe a small tweek on the carb. is that right?

thanks smitty, sounds good and sounds alot cheaper.
 
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that's another thing there smitty, I was told by Bubbie that year motor has ball bearings vs the roller bearing on the cams, which I definitely need changed out. I don't know if the previous owner changed the cam tensioners and so now I'm wondering if I want hydraulic which I hear has to be changed out at 60,000 vs the stock at 30,000, or go with the gear drive and never worry about it again. I'm confused, my bike has about 33,000 miles on it.
 
I agree with everything that has been said above. Better breather to get more air in. This may need the next size jets in the carb, both low and high. See the self-help info on carbs for jetting info.

Definitely have the tensioners checked if you don't know. If they are spring-loaded, and you do not have the pesos for the roller-chain conversion, have the tensioners changed out for new ones. If you have the ball-bearing on the cam in the plate, have that up-graded to another roller-bearing. While they have the cam chest apart, have the INA bearings in the case replaced with the Torringtons. Even without the up-grade to roller chain conversion, you will know what's-what and can plan for the conversion project.

I personally would stick with the cam chain alternatives rather than the gear drive. Not sure those are always a replace and forget-about-it solution.

TQ
 
what are the INA bearings, does INA stand for ball bearings, or is it like a brand, maybe stands for generic like OEM parts?
 
what are the INA bearings, does INA stand for ball bearings, or is it like a brand, maybe stands for generic like OEM parts?

BUBBIE HERE........
I have DONE ALL THE MODS on my 2000FXDS A EARLY YEAR LIKE YOURS...
I went with GEAR drive SS570 cams and spent $$$$$$$ on my conversion back in 2001,,, lots and lots of parts and NOW comes a low priced KIT offered today....429.99$$

IF the main cam bearing on YOURS (A ticking time bomb) HAS NOT BEEN CHANGED OUT, YOU or a mechanic CAN look to see by JUST by taking OFF the cam cover....the small old style BALL on main cam is to be replaced by a ROLLER style and that takes care of that... the roller is open to see into it and NO mistaking it as a ROLLER the ball is covered by a spacer tin and it resembles a bearing off a bicycle wheel.... not heavy enough to DRIVE two cams....

BUT IF YOU GO THERE (ALL has to come apart anyway) IT would be GREAT to go with the FULL HD KIT....... bringing your bike up to TODAYS STANDARDS and not much $$ in parts to do it...(not like what i spent)

THEN you might think about different CAMS and change out then WHILE ALL APART

and YES also change the bearings in engine block (if not already) from INA style to a torrington,full SOLID rollers not spaced like INA's ....
these TWO bearings are in the engine side for the cams...

I would STRONGLY suggest IF completely stock and NOT converted over YET ON YOUR EARLY (first half year of 99) 2000 YEAR it needs to be done SOON (TIC TIC TIC)......

THE FULL KIT BY HD....
or by others like HERKO

In 1999 and up thru 2006 on the big bikes(TC), a lot MORE problems were NOT addressed by HD....... TOO LOW a VOLUME oil pump/ball bearings/ina style cam bearings on engine side LEFT A LOT TO BE DESIRED....

NOW you can get A FULL UP-GRADE KIT from HD for 429.99$$......

THIS WOULD along with more torque/performance cams while in there and KEEPING the cu.in. same 88 for the $$ saving.. giving your bike the UP-DATE NEEDED of todays bikes and PLENTY of POWER when mods. like cams are installed..AND will give you MANY MILES OF PROBLEM FREE riding...

THE KIT has the NEW BETTER VOLUME OIL PUMP....CAM SUPPORT PLATE to convert to the NEW HYDRAULIC style tensioners
(last longer than you stated)(as SMITTY SAYS " INSALL N FORGET THEM")
NEW silent chain n gears with the NEW bearing BRKT.

ALL of these parts WERN"T AVAILABLE back when i CONVERTED my 2000 over OR I WOULD OF GONE THIS KIT WAY...(.)

PLEASE,,,, I have been there and done that SO my ONLY concerned HERE is for YOU and the OTHERS to get the HD problem fixed.... AT LEAST THE BALL BEARING..

I have SEEN FIRST HAND the problems WHEN this ball bearing goes OUT..... NOT NICE and many NEVER HEARD IT COM"N..... destroys the engine and a FREE rebuild is OFFERED by HD ONLY AFTER A PROBLEM HAPPENS,,, not for me to wait!!!!!

LOOK under BUBBIE and you will find TOO MANY POST ON THIS MATTER.....
YES THEY ARE WORTH READING!

Yet I'll hear some one say I HAVE A EARLY 2000 TC BIKE..... what should I do????? OH i got some use of the SHOES YET, I'll wait... then BOOM!

after the ALL the mods I did to my 2000 FXDS,and making a $$$$ HOT ROD out of it, i put over 60,000 miles on that engine rebuild and 117,000 on that bike.....
traded off now...? who or where but I bet it still is running STRONG

signed....BUBBIE
 
Bubbie, you da man, I really appreciate all the input you have given me. I always look forward to hearing advice from you, because you have been there and done that. I'm glad that on this forum there are so many people. Most everybody can get specific info on their ride. Would Andrews 26G work or the 37G, do I need a bolt in cam? The reason I ask is that the 26G says its a bolt in, but the 37G doesn't say it is I would like to have the 37G.
 
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