Raising RPM's across the range

Discussion in 'Transmission' started by biscuit, Dec 8, 2012.

  1. biscuit

    biscuit Junior Member

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    I dont often post,but this time i'm stumped.

    I want to change the gearing on my bike.These things are way too 'tall'.The options are:
    30tooth front pulley for a decent 6% change-big job,everything on the Port side comes off;requires new belt,gaskets and seals, and speedo will be out.

    68 or 70 tooth rear pulley-easier to change and in conjunction with a 30t or standard 32t front i can get either a 6,9 or 12% change and if i pick the right combo the belt will fit-but i cant get EITHER size for my bike;the speedo will be out and the belt will probably rub on the belt guard or the frame or the swingarm,and if i decided to fit a 30t to keep the same belt its a big job---

    32t front compensator sprocket will give me 5.88% change-easy(ish) to do,belt stays the same,speedo stays correct and i'm happy. Cant get or even find one-.

    I've read through all the library stuff,researched just about every post in the world,sent emails to pulley and sprocket manufacturers Worldwide -even a couple of members here-and i'm back whence i began

    Has ANYBODY managed to change gearing ratios on an 08 FLSTN? IF you did,please let me know.

    I will probably have to end up settling for a 30tooth front pulley(1" wide rear pulleys aren't all that common) and via my T/max i can probably get the speedo sorted,but i dont really like the idea of a new belt(5000 klms on mine) or the smaller radius for the belt to rotate on.

    I have seen in the past that others have raised this issue,but without much success.I think they gave up-way too difficult--

    Thanks.
     
  2. HDDon

    HDDon Experienced Member Contributor Retired Moderators

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  3. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    Forget making the crank comp gear smaller. Even if you could find a compensator with fewer teeth, the primary chain length becomes a major issue since you can't use or find master links or half links in double row HS rated. The auto tensioner will ratchet up way too high and chain noise becomes an issue. Also heat soaked engines become VERY hard to crank. Been there and done that.

    You did not mention your interstate vs city riding. Would having a higher ratio 1st gear be enough, or do you want 6th to also be a higher ratio? More than 50% of my riding is interstate so a tall 6th is ok but I wish my 1st gear ratio was higher . If 75% of my riding was city, things would be different. Bakers 7 speed gearbox looks like the ratios are right but it requires deep pockets.
     
  4. HDDon

    HDDon Experienced Member Contributor Retired Moderators

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    You might also want to look into a chain final drive, then it's just a question of changing sprockets and longer or shorter chain.
     
  5. biscuit

    biscuit Junior Member

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    Thanks Hoople and Don.

    1-Most of my riding-90% is twisty backroad cruising.Dont care too much for highway riding and i really want that low down pull out of corners.Nothing fast,but GRUNTY.I'm an easy rider and torque lover:-or at least the illusion thereof.Stick it in 4th and burble along.

    2-I have emailed Baker as well as RC components (pulleys) and 3 others.Awaiting replies.LOVE the idea of a 7 speed 'box but is way too spendy by the time it gets down here.

    3-I really couldnt toss the belt.So clean,so non-labour intensive,so quiet and so smooth:i think it also helps to absorb some of those V-Twin power pulses.Who really misses those radial sprays of lube around their rear wheel?Not me.

    Pretty sure i will be going the route of Andrews 30t front pulley for an overall change of just over 6%-pay the money and probably enjoy the bike a bit more.Certainly,many others who have gone down the 30t front pulley are pretty satisfied.

    Thanks very much for your responses guys.I appreciate it.
     
  6. Rmac

    Rmac Member

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    "1-Most of my riding-90% is twisty backroad cruising.Dont care too much for highway riding and i really want that low down pull out of corners.Nothing fast,but GRUNTY.I'm an easy rider and torque lover:-or at least the illusion thereof.Stick it in 4th and burble along."

    I put a 103" stage II kit (SE 255 cams) into my bike and got lots of torque. I ride the hills and the turns too and in the city, the added torque makes it a completely different ride. I found the 103" stage II kit on eBay from a dealer for $500. Even a simple cam change will change your ride.
     
  7. biscuit

    biscuit Junior Member

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    Rmac,i run a Thundermax with Autotune,Slip-ons fitted to standard Headers,and Air Filter mods. I also run S&S 583 Cams which are low to mid range babies.

    Ive dabbled with the thought of gearing changes for quite some time now and found it a 'difficult' subject. Then i thought-Go do enginework! .A couple of weeks ago i contacted one what i would consider a reputable engine Wizz to go inside the motor,but -he dont do Harleys! Got hold of another guy and he suggested the cheapest,most cost effective and probably the kindest-of-all-to the bike would be to swap pulleys.-he didnt really want to do motor work as he thinks to do it RIGHT,you have to spend big.He didn't want to take my money and then leave me with other issues down the track..This guy lives 3 States away-around 2000klms.

    The biggest issue i have EVER found with Motorcycle shops in my country is their attitude to customer service.With very few exceptions,most want your money and then go get lost.We dont have any REALLY RECOGNIZED people who work on H-D's.Sure,they'll tell you they are,but they aren't really.Press a little bit and you get bluster and shortness.
    I went to 4 local shops-2 were Harley shops and 2 were what you guys call independents-with a list of standard questions as to how they would do pulley swaps.
    One independent questioned rather agressively as to why i wanted to do it,then got somewhat peeved when i had the temerity to question how they'd do it;the others talked to me but their attitudes spoke volumes.Maybe i dont look 'Harley' enough or i'm too polite or i only wanted to spend $800-900 or they only want to do 'bolt-ons'.Dunno.

    I got FOUR differing ways to do the job,4 'way varied' quotes and worst of all,only ONE would've replaced the seals whilst they were in there!

    There's NO WAY id let these clowns loose inside my motor to do engine mods.

    I fitted and play with my T/max;iv'e fitted Chrome fork lowers and i've fitted a Screamin' Eagle compensator to my bike.I intended to do the Cams,but the special tools were beaucoup dollars .

    I'm a Tradesman -i have the 08 manual and i've worked with tools all my life(cars and bikes)-i could do this job myself-but again the cost in OZ of the special tools is prohibitive for a one off job.

    In there somewhere is my answer to your statement.:31:

    Again,thank you for your response.
    Regards.
     
  8. dolt

    dolt Senior Member Contributor

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    Build the engine to pull the gears. 107" with headwork and cams, free flowing intake and exhaust, tuner and a good tune to get 115TQ and the taller gearing won't be so tall. If you like to change rear tires, intall the 30T pulley along with the engine buildup.