free website stats program Pesky oil leak on '03 UC | Harley Davidson Forums

Pesky oil leak on '03 UC

TQuentin1

TQuentin1

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Moderator
So I started noticing traces of oil on the top of the tranny cover, trap door cover (side cover), starter end cap, return hose, etc. I searched for this leak and decided it must be from the slow leak I have in the rear cylinder rocker box. But the problem seemed to be getting worse while the leak in the rocker box area did not and never seemed to have wet running oil like the stuff getting on the spots listed above. I kept wiping the oil up to try to find the source based on where the oil ended up. It always seemed to occur after longer rides once the oil had gotten up to operating temperature for a while and the engine ran at highway rpms for extended periods of time.

Anyway, it was clear that the oil was blowing on to the spots listed above due to bike speed rather then dripping onto the locations. But I could not find it!!

Finally this past weekend while searching for the pesky leak, I saw a very small amount of oil peeking out from the outside pushrod cover spring cap!! So, the oring is leaking and allowing the oil to blow back over the tranny and other part of the right side of the bike. Finally!! So that is my project for tomorrow or this weekend. At least it has been lousy weather this week, so I wouldn't have been riding the bike anyway, even if it was not leaking oil and making a mess!

So if you are getting a pesky oil drip mess that is blowing on the tranny and right side of the bike, and can't figure out where it is coming from, check that out. A Q-tip can make this easier.

TQ
 
Those sort of leaks can be a real pain to isolate exactly where they are coming from
I chased a minor drip for about 6 months before i got to the source
It sounds like you have found the source now and i am sure you will have great pleasure in getting it sorted

Brian
 
A fast way to loacate a small leak that is being wind blown is simple and even funny.

Buy a can of lady underarm spray with baby powder in it. ( I buy from the dollar store ) Clean the engine and let it dry, spray large areas where you think its coming from, let it idle first and you my locate it if that does not work,..go for a short ride. The baby powder will not let the oil wick out as fast, however it will leave a brown area where the leak is coming from. BTW it cleans up very easy as well once you locate the issue
 
I don't have any leaks right now (knock on wood) but this sounds like a great tip. Thanks
 
Well I finally got around to fixing the leaking pushrod cover. The one leaking was the exhaust tube on the rear jug.

Jacked the rear wheel off the ground and put that tranny in 5th or 6th. Pulled the plugs. Pulled the clips and collapsed the PR covers. Screwed all the PRs closed and removed the PRs and covers (keep front and rear segregated so you can return the PR where it was).

I cleaned up all the PRs and covers with mineral spirits including flushing the inside pathway of the PRs. Got the baked on crud off the chrome with some 0000 steel wool. The rear exhaust middle oring was the culprit! It must have been damaged when I installed the tubes last time. New orings top, middle and bottom for all PR covers.

On install, I started with the front jug. Installed the PRs and tubes holding the tubes up with some shock cord with Christmas ornament hooks on each end. Rotated the rear wheel until the exhaust PR rose then fell, and the intake rose and then fell. Ran around to the left side and then rotated the rear tire slowly until the front piston was at TDC of the compression stroke. I use a thin blade long screw driver to probe for the piston as it rises in the cylinder.

Returned to the right side of the engine and adjusted both front pushrods (removed the exhaust and did intake first then exhaust). My PRs are 24 tpi, so I adjusted to 3 full turns and 2 flats. That is then 0.139" out beyond zero lash. Lock them down and take a break for 15-20 min. while the lifters bleed down. When their can be turned easily with thumb and forefinger, expand the covers and install the clips. Repeat everything for the rear jug.

After everything is "finished", rotate the rear tire as fast as possible by hand and listen for noise that is a sign something is wrong. If none, then pull in the clutch and rotate the engine with the starter until you get some pressure on the oil gauge if so equipped. If no oil gauge, then rotate for about 30 seconds. Listen again for the sound of something wrong.

If all OK, put the tranny back in neutral, install the plugs, and lower the bike back onto the jiffy stand. Put everything away and start the engine. Listen to the engine carefully. If all sounds good, check for leaks.

Everything good, then head on down the road!!

TQ
 
HDWRENCH said:
Any reason for setting the quick install out so far?? 24 TPI is a normal 2.4 turn from Zero lash.
Click to expand...

That would be about 0.100" out from zero lash. The piston travel of the "B" lifters is 0.250". So half way would be 3 full turns. Had an old war horse wrench that ran his own shop that suggested most noise top ends could be attributed to not adjusting the PRs OUT enough. He recommended 0.130-0.140". So 3.33 turns.

TQ
 
I just pulled 4 "B" lifters apart and check internal travel. Numbers I have from this set are as follows.

.190
.192
.196
.195

From what we have seen .200 on avg is the norm. I have not seen that much travel
Provided a cam in use does not have ramps that are creating noise we do not see any issue with setting depression at .100-.110. Many times noise from the quick install is the pushrod is hitting the tube.
 
HDWRENCH said:
I just pulled 4 "B" lifters apart and check internal travel. Numbers I have from this set are as follows.

.190
.192
.196
.195

From what we have seen .200 on avg is the norm. I have not seen that much travel
Provided a cam in use does not have ramps that are creating noise we do not see any issue with setting depression at .100-.110. Many times noise from the quick install is the pushrod is hitting the tube.
Click to expand...
************************

I have installed SE255's a while back.... Just wanting to Hear the difference, later,,, I set one of my adjustables Under the 3 turns + three flats I also use. setting it at 2.5 (My rods also 24" and 6 flats = one turn)..

I had a Louder lifter noise (one) Until warmed but Could still hear IT later after warmed.

The others were Quiet...:D

I like tighter control for the quietness also I don't Over Rev the motor...

I USED to believe that the amount of Free PUSH (adjusted) on the lifter = the amount of oil pumped up to the valve-heads..Too tight a setting Low oil, looser, More oil... Not True...

The paddle inside lifter "set" an amount of oil to the top end regardless of Loose or Tight adjustments made by the adjustable rods...

signed....BUBBIE
 
Well this is all probably due to different lifter makes I would think. If TQ could turn his pushrods after the bleed down then he definitely was still in the lifter piston travel range so that's a no brainer.

I long ago surmised that air cooled engines have more expansion between the cam lobe and the rocker (least on the non overhead cam ones). Because as some of you may have noticed they have WAY MORE lifter preload distance than auto's do.

When I put the heads back on my Chevy truck the preload was only 3/4 turn (4 and half flats) and I looked at the threads on the rocker studs they ain't much off 24 tpi just looking at um. In fact I believe that's what they are.

I would kinda feel apprehensive going halfway into the preload if I was running high rpms (say above 6000) much, but that's just me. I'm far from an HD expert. The thing that really confuses me is . . . . if the engineers think that much preload travel play is necessary for the air cooled expansion why would they then turn around and adjust half of it out ?? I just don't get that part.

Anyhow great thread guys. Very good stuff here.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top