Part Numbers

Discussion in 'Sportster Models' started by TattoodITGuy, May 6, 2008.

  1. TattoodITGuy

    TattoodITGuy Member

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    Im looking for the part numbers for the extended clutch cable and blk brake cables. I recently purchased 12 mini apes and looking to get everything installed. but after reading 2 pages and LOTS of forums i am still uncertain to which cables (or the part numbers) i need.

    BTW, I have a BLK 08 Nightster. When i bought it i had the Quarter Ferring and front lower spoiler on it. Will post pics later.
     
  2. theklanchXL1200N

    theklanchXL1200N Active Member

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    Tattoo,

    Hey from what I have read you may not need to buy an extended clutch cable. You can reroute the wiring a little to make the switches work. You can either extend your brake line by re-bending the hard line or do what I did when I installed my 4" risers, which was to buy a braided line for the brake line.

    HD wants you to dump the $200 into the wiring cables and lines as they only charge $60 for the bars. In case you didn't notice that trend with HD, you can't change anything for less than $300 till it's said and done.

    I have pictures up of the 4" risers and stock bars. My grips are only about 2" lower than mini apes with stock risers. I wanted a different look than the apes as it seems that EVERYBODY is switching to apes on their nightsters. Feel free to pick my brain on this. I have changed a couple of other bars for my buddies, and so far we have only changed brake lines and re-routed some things to make everything else work. Of course there are exceptions to this. I helped a buddy put apes on his night train and we had to extend everything.....

    Again, you don't NEED anything to do this, but if you want to spend the $$$$ you most certainly can. A little creativity is all you need.

    THE:rider:pENNSYLVANIA
     
  3. TattoodITGuy

    TattoodITGuy Member

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    Hey thanks klanch. I was going to get Drag bars at first but then had a small accident and busted my throttle grip. So when looking for the grips i changed my mind and got the mini apes, now after reading all sorts of thing i wasnt too sure. i will take your advice and not change the cables but WILL get the brake line. money is a little tight ATM so every little that works and i dont have to change, helps.

    Thanks again.
     
  4. hjacobson1

    hjacobson1 Active Member

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    I own an 07 Nightster and went with the mini apes. Did not have to change clutch cable or throttle, did reroute and they work just fine. Can't comment about brake line as I changed to stainless line. I have read on this forum though that one person used the stock brake line by carefully straightening out the metal part of the line.

    I should also say that the mini apes are really comfortable and look great as well.
     
  5. TattoodITGuy

    TattoodITGuy Member

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    i measured the distance without the setup for the new brake line. i came up around 50in, can anyone supply a camparison?
     
  6. theklanchXL1200N

    theklanchXL1200N Active Member

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    I believe stock is 40 or 42" I put a 42" braided stainless line on with my risers. What I would do if I were you is bolt up your bars, but leave your old bars attached to the controls (it helps if you have a buddy as you are gonna need 4 hands) and then lay a towel over your triple trees and tank and compare your old grip position to the new one. The difference in height is gonna be the difference in length you are gonna need. Another trick is to take a piece of vacuum tubing or something similar and mock up your brake line with the new bars, as if you buy a line that is too long, it will be, well, too long. I could have got away with a line that is a little shorter, but it is ok.

    When it comes to putting on the new line, here is a tip, DO NOT remove the master cylinder cover before you disconnect the old brake line. Disconnect the top banjo bolt (on the master cylinder) first and have your new line ready to go in your other hand, remove the old one and replace the new one as fast as you can, you won't lose hardly any brake fluid, then disconnect the caliper. After you reconnect the caliper, THEN remove the master cylinder cover and let gravity push the fluid through the line, and put a piece of hose on the bleeder into a small bottle of brake fluid. I have done a few of these and it is much, much easier to do it this way, just make sure that the master cylinder doesn't go dry as it is a royal pain to get the air out of it.

    One more thing on this job: Be very very very careful about the brake light switch as they break very easily. The first thing I do when I am touching anything on the right side controls is remove the brake lever and it is the last part I replace. I have broken two of these now and almost broke the one on my bike. They are $25 from Hundred Dollar, for a $2 switch.

    Let me know how the job goes, and if you have any questions, I'll do my best to help out.

    Someday I want to open my own bike/speed/chrome shop so I can put this knowledge to good use......

    THE:rider:pENNSYLVANIA
     
  7. theklanchXL1200N

    theklanchXL1200N Active Member

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    One more thing, I got the line from Dennis Kirk in black braided stainless. I really didn't save any money as compared to HD, it was about $65 shipped, but it only took 2 days to get here.

    I will post pics tonight of the line if you want to see it.
     
    Last edited: May 7, 2008
  8. TattoodITGuy

    TattoodITGuy Member

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    Thanks for all the help, just checked with my supplier from who i bought the bars from, still going to be about a week before i get them.
    :bigsmiley30: