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OPINIONS CONCERNING "THE SMOOTH RIDER"Touring Bike stabilizer brace

There are several stabilizing braces that have been out for a while (e.g. bagger brace, and the Progressive touring bike bagger brace), most well reviewed and discussed on this site.

An outfit called Scorpion Motorcycle Components set up at Sturgis this year and was selling what they call a "smooth rider." I am looking for reviews and opinions on this brace for a 2008 Road King Classic.

I am trying to understand whether it might be preferable to the Progressive stabilizer brace.

I WOULD BE MOST GRATEFUL FOR AND APPRECIATIVE OF YOUR VIEWS OPINIONS, EXPERIENCES AND RECOMMENDATIONS PLEASE.

Here is their web site: Stabilizers for Harley Davidson Touring Models - Scorpion Motorcycle Components - Smooth Rider.

The site states:

"Stop the Wobble

Stop the wobble with our Smooth Rider. Our engineers designed a stabilizer that does not bind the transmission to the frame. This allows your motor and transmission mounts to work as designed. Our design uses a rail and guide concept that provides for extremely tight clearance tolerances which maintains transmission and frame alignment. This type of design has proven to virtually eliminate the wobble.
Specifics:

* Fits 1993 thru 2008 Harley Davidson Touring Models

* High Performance Urethane Vibration Inhibitor

* Simplest Installation on the Market

* Does Not Impact Ground Clearance and air flow across the oil pan

* CNC Machined 6061-T6 Aluminum"

This link explains their concept: Scorpion Motorcycle Components - Smooth Rider - Basics

"Our engineers were able to create a rail and guide attachment that did not permanently bind the engine/transmission to the frame. A high performance urethane inhibitor was developed and inserted in the guide. The rail would fit in the urethane inhibitor with minimum clearance on both sides. Once the conditions were starting to develop that would result in the harmonic effects, the rail would come into contact with the urethane inhibitor, bring the engine/transmission into alignment with the frame, and stop the conditions before the wobble could start. After the alignment action was complete the rail would return to its normal resting position.
Simplest Installation on the Market!

Smooth Rider without a doubt is the easiest stabilizer to install. A total of three components and five bolts make up the stabilizer. The Alignment Bar mounts to top of the factory cross member (dog bone). The Guide mounts to the Alignment Bar and the Rail mounts to the transmission. The high performance urethane vibration inhibitor located in the guide does all the work of stopping the conditions that create the wobble. Smooth Rider does not affect ground clearance or air flow across the oil pan."
 
I'm just a motorcycle guy, not an engineer. I see a couple of things to consider. !. Aluminum pieces mounted on steel. Dis similar metals have a tendency to corrode where they touch each other (electrolysis). My guess is that over 5 to 10 years the aluminum will pit and turn powdery.
2. The stabilizing functions appears to be done with a rail trapped in a urethane cushioned slot. It would appear to me that the urethane would wear away with use as it will be exposed to dirt, dust, sand etc. kicked up by the front tire. Then as the blade moves up and down over bumps and presses on one side or the other when side loads are applied, the "sand paper" environment will wear the urethane slot wider and wider over time until no extra stabilization is provided. You might check on whether replacement parts are available as the originals wear out and is there a discount for previous owners.

The more standard style units with the links similar to the engine links should allow link replacement, I would think would be at $100 or less for the replacements. I was attracted to the Progressive unit because the side plate was steel, not aluminum, so no electrolysis from dis similar metals, and ground clearance/lift clearance is unchanged. The link can be easily removed and replaced if necessary. Also, the Progressive unit can be had for around $150 from Amazon outlets and Eastern Performance Cycle, just in case you need to divide your money among competing needs.

I did not get the sales talk, nor have I been able to hold the pieces and look them over. What I see from the pictures might be all wrong, but at least it is worth considering.
 
I'm just a motorcycle guy, not an engineer. I see a couple of things to consider. !. Aluminum pieces mounted on steel. Dis similar metals have a tendency to corrode where they touch each other (electrolysis). My guess is that over 5 to 10 years the aluminum will pit and turn powdery.
2. The stabilizing functions appears to be done with a rail trapped in a urethane cushioned slot. It would appear to me that the urethane would wear away with use as it will be exposed to dirt, dust, sand etc. kicked up by the front tire. Then as the blade moves up and down over bumps and presses on one side or the other when side loads are applied, the "sand paper" environment will wear the urethane slot wider and wider over time until no extra stabilization is provided. You might check on whether replacement parts are available as the originals wear out and is there a discount for previous owners.

The more standard style units with the links similar to the engine links should allow link replacement, I would think would be at $100 or less for the replacements. I was attracted to the Progressive unit because the side plate was steel, not aluminum, so no electrolysis from dis similar metals, and ground clearance/lift clearance is unchanged. The link can be easily removed and replaced if necessary. Also, the Progressive unit can be had for around $150 from Amazon outlets and Eastern Performance Cycle, just in case you need to divide your money among competing needs.

I did not get the sales talk, nor have I been able to hold the pieces and look them over. What I see from the pictures might be all wrong, but at least it is worth considering.

Great input, thank you very much. I am leaning toward the Progressive... Eastern Performance is in my back yard, just about.

Would be interested, still, in hearing from anybody who has the "smooth rider" installed.
 
Great input, thank you very much. I am leaning toward the Progressive... Eastern Performance is in my back yard, just about.

Would be interested, still, in hearing from anybody who has the "smooth rider" installed.

Interesting comments in regards to the aluminum stock and the urethane. I did get the sales talk and did get to examine the material. In fact I was there when they took a unit off a bike from California that had over 20,000 miles on it. There was virtually no wear on the aluminum or the urethane insert.

Most of the stabilizers on the market "hard link" the motor to the framer to stop the wobble. This product only does it when needed and then goes back to gliding.

With a 30 day money back guarantee why not give them a shot and see if your ride is improved.

In 2011 I went back and helped install the Smooth Rider and was thoroughly impressed with installation and the comments from riders who came back to shake the inventor's hand.

Just remember that these type of stabilizers don't fix all wobble problems, just the ones that are caused between the engine and frame.
 
I personally like the Smooth Rider because it does NOT make a direct hard link to the frame ... the hard link of Progressive model stabilizer not only can cause vibration which I don't care for myself ... I think the added stress and vibration could cause the frame or mounting itself to have metal fatigue issues over a lot less time than the Smooth Rider version ... since the Smooth Rider is NOT in constant contact through a solid link to the motorcycle frame. I would much rather pay for a fresh Urethane part than have to pay for costly metal fatigue issues on the frame itself ... my motto is "when in doubt rubber mount" ... just my opinion.
 
I interested in this stabilizer as well. Reading the information on the website says "it virtually eliminates the vibrations". So that tells me that it doesn;'t rid our tour bikes of this death wobble.
 
A properly set up bike should not need any type of steering brace, damper, etc. If there is a wobble in the front wheel look to the steering neck bearings, fall away adjustment, wheel balance, worn wheel bearings, if a lace wheel check the spokes, etc...
There can be other issues as well which I haven't listed.
 
The link wouldn't open for me so I can't comment on the product and performance but I am with gator508 on this one.

I would first like to hear the OP describe the wobble, i.e., how and when it presents. Has the wobble always presented or is the wobble a new thing? How many miles on the bike?

As gator has pointed out, an earlier touring model shouldn't need a brace if set up properly and there are plenty of things to check out before considering a brace. I would add worn tire, worn swing arm parts like the rubber "donuts" as alignment. My '02 FLHT would start to wobble on a long high speed sweeper, say speed limit marked at 50 or 60 but bike speed was 70 or 80. About half way into the sweeper, the shake would start; this was the only condition where the wobble would start. I started checking things and found my rear wheel was about 1/2" off center to the front. Made the adjustment with spacers and re-aligned the drive train to the frame and replaced the rubber "donuts" on the swing arm and the problem was solved; no more scary sweepers.

JMHO but I would not add any type of brace until all the other potential causes of the wobble had been eliminated.;)
 
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