Oil pressure on FLH 88 ci after tensioner install and new Oil pump

[cowboywildbill]

I noticed that after I had my tensioners replaced and at same time the dealer installed a new oil pump, that my pressure still varies.
They told me that my crank runout was 3 thou and that was typical and not a problem. My old pump was scarred and had a groove worn in it.
My pressure will still vary after warm up. If I'm cruising it will usually cary 32 psi at about 2500 rpm. If I slow down and drop below 1200 rpm, of course the psi will drop as in any engine. But what is strange to me is, if I acelerate briskly back up to 2500 rpm by winding up to say 4500 or 5000 rpm, the psi usually goes back to 32 psi. If I put along and don't wind it up much over 2500 rpm, it will then only carry about 25 psi at cruise again at 2500 rpm.
I haven't had an oil pressure guage on the bike that long, so I'm wondering if this is typical for a twin cam. I also notice that sometimes the guage will wander up and down 5 to 10 psi while I am staying at a steady rpm. I know that sending units and guages aren't perfect, but I don't think this is that kind of issue.
I also have a lot of shake at idle and at 2000 rpm that I didn't have before the work was done. The bike runs and cruises smooth at 2500 rpm, and at say 1500 rpm in town it is smooth when I'm not lugging it. I try to stay 2000 rpm while riding in town. The dealer say's thisshake and psi flucuation is all normal?
Is this normal for twin cams? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[TQuentin1]

Did you have the conversion done, or are you still running the spring-loaded tensioners?

I would suggest getting a Baisley spring or one of the other aftermarket do-dads that help raise the oil pressure. I would also replace the plunger and thoroughly clean out the oil relief port before installing the new plunger and Baisley. It made a BIG difference to my bike before I did the conversion. I am going to install the Baisley in the new set up as soon as it is time to change the oil next time.

TQ

 

[cowboywildbill]

Thanks for the reply, I am running the stock spring loaded tensioners and cams and oil pump. It just seems strange to me that my oil psi varies that much. Did you notice that kind of fluctuation on your oil pressure before the upgrade? I am all stock except for screamng eagle air filter and samson two into one pipes. The tech said he cleaned everything up and it all looked fine.

 

[Bait]

Did you have the conversion done, or are you still running the spring-loaded tensioners?

I would suggest getting a Baisley spring or one of the other aftermarket do-dads that help raise the oil pressure. I would also replace the plunger and thoroughly clean out the oil relief port before installing the new plunger and Baisley. It made a BIG difference to my bike before I did the conversion. I am going to install the Baisley in the new set up as soon as it is time to change the oil next time.

TQ

The 15% spring for stock/street? Stock HD plunger?

 

[TQuentin1]

Thanks for the reply, I am running the stock spring loaded tensioners and cams and oil pump. It just seems strange to me that my oil psi varies that much. Did you notice that kind of fluctuation on your oil pressure before the upgrade? I am all stock except for screamng eagle air filter and samson two into one pipes. The tech said he cleaned everything up and it all looked fine.

I had one (outer) of the tensioners nuke on me shortly after getting the bike. Had bits of plastic throughout the system, but luckily did not crater the pump (or anything else!!). I cleaned out the oil relief port (after removing OEM spring and plunger) with carb cleaner, and then with a long fat "Q-tip" soaked in mineral spirits. I did have a problem with inconsistent oil pressure as this was all happening. I attribute that to the bits of plastic jamming the plunger. So when I replaced the tensioner, I went in with a new OEM plunger and the 15% (LMR-002) Baisley spring (Baisley Hi-Performance Oil Spring Product) and the cleaning described above. That made a huge difference.

Not calling anyone a liar, but to clean the oil relief port, the outer tensioner has to be removed, the roll pin has to be knocked out, the OEM spring removed, and then the plunger can be extracted. It will probably not come out on its own. I use a popsicle stick jammed up into the plunger to pull the plunger out of the port. Seems like more effort than an HD tech would do if he wasn't told to install a new plunger and spring. Definitely would not do the "Q-tip" thing!!

TQ

 

[cowboywildbill]

I was under the impression that when they pulled the cam plate and installed new cam bearings and a new oil pump that they could and did clean the port and sump pickup while it was apart.. Maybe I was misinformed.for $1126.00 They should have.

 

[The4opps1]

I did the roller chain conversion on my '99 Ultra myself and my pressures are about what you are detailing. There are many reasons why oil pressure can vary. There are days when my gauge is at 32 all day long, regardless of how hot it is or how long I ride. The next day, it'll vary from 32 to 25, just like you described. From my viewpoint, I have twice as much (or more) oil pressure than before I did the conversion, so I'm ok with that. I run Mobil 1 V-Twin, a HD oil cooler. Remember also, the gauges in the bikes are good, but not lab quality. 32 pounds could just as easily be 35 or 28 pounds. You can also get a case of gauge watching syndrome, where you spend more time looking at the oil pressure, than enjoying the ride. From my perspective, the gauges are there to let you keep tabs on things. I glance at mine very ten minutes or so, but avoid constantly looking at them.

 

[cowboywildbill]

I agree that if you watch them too much you can get paranoid, just like listening to valve train noise. I apreciate your reply. I'm going to just run it.
I keep the oil changed and run amsoil 20W50. Now my accesory fuse is starting to blow again after two months of it doing OK. The dealer had the bike 3 times and for over a week the last time trying to figure it out. They had gone over all of the wire uhder the fairing before and spliced and heat shrinked the repairs. They still didn't find a cause but we thought it was OK. Now it's starting to blow the fuse again.