oil change concerns

Discussion in 'Oil' started by Billbo, Nov 24, 2009.

  1. Billbo

    Billbo Junior Member

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    Well, after many posts here, reading and posting, and after buying the HD Service Manual - I decided to go ahead and change out my fluids per some recomendations here. I have a few NEW concerns. EDIT - oh yeah - I have only put about 200 miles on the MC since I bought it.

    NOTE - the dealer said they changed out all fluids before selling the used MC to me. It does look like a brand new chrome oil filter on the bike.

    1-the oil drain plug had teflon tape on it - I assume to stop a leak - the rubber o-ring was totally shot! They apparently did not replace that bad oring -- OR they simply just did NOT change the oil. ?

    2-I drained out only 2 qts of engine oil. (no filter replacement yet - I know that will take up some amount of oil). I have been checking the oil levels both cold and hot and the oil tank seemed to have plenty of oil on the dipstick??? (the engine was hot after normal riding for 45 miles prior to oil change).

    3-the transmission plug - not drain, but top plug - also had a worn out rubber o-ring. (I imagine the drain plug to be more of the same)

    4-have not drained the trans or the primary yet. Will see what that's all about this weekend.

    Question - O-Rings - Harley parts or simply buy from hardware store?
    also, do I need to buy replacement gaskets for the primary oil change?

    Thank you all
    Bill
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2009
  2. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    Billbo. I would replaceall the O rins they are cheap insurance buy them from the dealer u can yhen match them up at lowes or Home depot and buy a box of them. I would also buy a new gasket for the primary try to loosen the bolts before draining, i have seen some of these bolts on newer bikes be very tight, good luck , Jack
     
  3. glider

    glider Veteran Member

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    Wherever you get the "O" rings, just make sure they will stand up to petroleum products and replace them all with new ones.

    You may want to get the derby cover gasket ahead of time when doing the primary oil. Better to have it if it's needed than have to make a special trip with the bike down.
     
  4. Hoople

    Hoople Account Removed

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    You can't buy the derby cover gasket by itself. When I went to buy the derby cover gasket, it came with all (3) "O" rings which is a Good thing.

    I just don't know about some dealership techs. Some of them are just plain old slackers cutting corners whenever possible.
    It would drive me nuts to see old "O" rings from a dealership oil change.
     
  5. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    Hoop, the derby O ring has been replaced wit a gasket you should be able to buy this seperate, I have 2 in stock in my garage part no. 25416-99c,Jack
     
  6. NEWHD74FAN

    NEWHD74FAN Experienced Member Retired Moderators

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    1-the oil drain plug had teflon tape on it - I assume to stop a leak - the rubber o-ring was totally shot! They apparently did not replace that bad oring -- OR they simply just did NOT change the oil. ?

    Teflon tape is kinda cheezy, but if it was not leaking waiting for next oil change and doing it yourself right thing to do. Honestly, never cared for o-rings, they generally crumble or distort after a single use, so I replace with readily available fiberwasher (nylon or copper metric size, so it fits snug)...but that is up to you. Use proper O-rings that are oil resistant, I heard that ones made for aircraft are much better, but have no idea where one would get them or identify if they were proper.

    2-I drained out only 2 qts of engine oil. (no filter replacement yet - I know that will take up some amount of oil). I have been checking the oil levels both cold and hot and the oil tank seemed to have plenty of oil on the dipstick??? (the engine was hot after normal riding for 45 miles prior to oil change).

    Could still be "wet sumping" (oil draining past the one way check valve, filling the oil sump which is normally dry)...but perhaps that was all that was left, any other evidence of burning/leaking oil use? Just make sure you fill it with the properly correct amount. To be sure fill less that 1/3 quart and check level in oil tank, after running it...and do change the filter at the same time. No use having more dirty oil to contaminate the new stuff than necessary.

    3-the transmission plug - not drain, but top plug - also had a worn out rubber o-ring. (I imagine the drain plug to be more of the same).

    Treat all O-rings the same, change up non grata everytime, cheap insurance...or do the fiber washer thing stated earlier.

    4-have not drained the trans or the primary yet. Will see what that's all about this weekend.

    I change mine every 6,000 miles...just because it is convenient, quick and cheap insurance...only about a quart for each...why not, and good way to check things out...you don't want to see orange stuff in there do ya?

    Question - O-Rings - Harley parts or simply buy from hardware store?
    also, do I need to buy replacement gaskets for the primary oil change?

    Thank you all
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2009
  7. Jack Klarich

    Jack Klarich Expert Member

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    The teflon is to seal the threads from leaking. I use permatex brush on teflon when necessary and replace the O rings every oil change cheap insurance IMO
     
  8. Billbo

    Billbo Junior Member

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    thanks to all - Jack, Glider, Hoop, NewHD74Fan,
    I will certainly replace all o-rings each time I change fluids. (and oil filter BTW)

    My clutch inspection cover had a solid flat black plastic(?) plate gasket (not ring type) it had nothing fitting inside the 'groove' like an o ring. It looked new so I just reinstalled it behind the chrome cover plate where it came from.

    I am not too sure about that pipe plug primary drain plug. Mine was screwed all the way in - flush with the bottom. When I removed it to drain the oil, I got a full quart 32 ozs of oil out (supposed to only be ~26 oz) and then ran it back in to flush again - concern is it did not seem to be TIGHT. Bike just sitting there, there was no leakage at that plug. Maybe this plug does need the tape or dope????

    BTW - it was impossible for me to SEE the primary fluid level at the bottom of the clutch assembly like the pix indicate! Sounds good and looks good in the service manual BUT - impossible to do - so I just poured in the 26 ounces of form + and put the cover plates back on. What do you all do?

    Would you suggest I tell the Dealer exactly what I found after THEY changed to fluids --- or just let it all go.

    Big Thanks -- Bill
     
  9. Billbo

    Billbo Junior Member

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    thanks smitty, for that advice - I do not like overtightening anything. especially some sorta cast aluminum plates.

    What do you think about that "pipe" plug primary drain plug? The manual says to leave about .160"- 180" (that's near 3/16") below flush - as I read it. IF I did that on mine, that plug would def not be tight! Tell me what you think - pipe dope or teflon or what?

    Bill
     
  10. Breeze3at

    Breeze3at Well-Known Member

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    Bilbo; From your discription in post #8, I think you removed your primary inspection cover(oval, in the middle of the primary) not the derby (big round at the back of primary). With the derby cover off, all you can see is the clutch pack, may need a flashlight to illuminate the oil level. I know you have a serv. manual, and the '01 may be different, but we usually get 38oz. out of the primary when changing. Where did you see 26 oz. called out? I use teflon tape, only because that's what I have on hand, don't put it past the end that sticks in the case. I don't have a Softail, so I'm gonna leave the plug tightning / distance alone.