Originally posted by Ribeye:
The MAP sensor is retained (held in) by the throttle stop bracket, which simply overhangs the map sensor. This bracket is retained by one of the screws (from the top) that holds in the IAC control, and one from the side, into the throttle body. The one into the throttle body should come out with no problem, but the one holding the IAC control has a loctite patch that requires heating the screw pretty well to get it to release. If you don't, you are likely to break the screw off in the throttle body, trying to get it out. That would be bad news.
It would be beneficial to get the induction module hardware kit, which will provide a variety of o-rings, and hardware that should be replaced at this point. Also, you will need fresh intake manifold seals.
It really is best to remove the induction module for adequate access. When you put the induction back on, the manual refers to an alignment plate to get it all lined back up. Just know that your airbox backing plate will work just as well.
Clean all of your connector contacts with DeOxit D5, and put some silicone dielectric grease around the connector seals.
Also, remember to relieve the fuel rail pressure before disconnecting the line from the tank or the injector fuel rail. You do that by removing the fuel pump fuse and spinning the engine with the starter for 3 secs past where it quits running. Fuel rail pressure is near 60 PSI so you don't want to damage the o-ring in the tank quick disconnect, or get pressurized fuel in your face.
The MAP sensor is retained (held in) by the throttle stop bracket, which simply overhangs the map sensor. This bracket is retained by one of the screws (from the top) that holds in the IAC control, and one from the side, into the throttle body. The one into the throttle body should come out with no problem, but the one holding the IAC control has a loctite patch that requires heating the screw pretty well to get it to release. If you don't, you are likely to break the screw off in the throttle body, trying to get it out. That would be bad news.
It would be beneficial to get the induction module hardware kit, which will provide a variety of o-rings, and hardware that should be replaced at this point. Also, you will need fresh intake manifold seals.
It really is best to remove the induction module for adequate access. When you put the induction back on, the manual refers to an alignment plate to get it all lined back up. Just know that your airbox backing plate will work just as well.
Clean all of your connector contacts with DeOxit D5, and put some silicone dielectric grease around the connector seals.
Also, remember to relieve the fuel rail pressure before disconnecting the line from the tank or the injector fuel rail. You do that by removing the fuel pump fuse and spinning the engine with the starter for 3 secs past where it quits running. Fuel rail pressure is near 60 PSI so you don't want to damage the o-ring in the tank quick disconnect, or get pressurized fuel in your face.